Trailer Brakes

Rodger · Post by **Rodger** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:55 am

Hola Class

From the Colorado Cruz I realized that many do not have a CB in their truck even though in Yester-year to have one was the thing. Sooo the present owner has removed theirs.

I know that if you have a ventage trailer to pull the trailer people all have them and even the GoldWing bike riders.

Believe it or not this leads to my latest question. I know of one other truck here in Colorado ( that answers to this site ) that uses their truck to tow.

The question is: Of those of you that have your truck set up to tow, what kind of braking unit do you have on the Sweptline?

I have a new style all electrical unit on one vehicle and a hydralic unit that is plumbed to the brakes on another. Both trucks have a seven plug cord for the trailer.

Rodger & Gabby
COS

Post by **oneowner71** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 10:52 am

I've got an electrical system hooked up to all of my trucks, with a 7 way plug, to match my 18' car hauler. Works like a champ, and only cost $10 for the extension cable (I pass the control unit from tow rig to tow rig depending on which truck I tow with). Very simple to install...

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 11:15 am

I use the electronic type on my truck (2003 Suburban). I think that these type are better than the hydraulic ones. They use a pendulum to measure the current needed for your brakes. The more it swings or faster, the more power the trailer brakes get. With the usage of the new anti lock brakes in trucks and cars today, the hydraulic ones are not even available any more.

Jim

Jones · Post by **Jones** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 8:20 pm

I agree with Jim on this one. This is what I pulled off the '64:

This unit plugged right into the break lines. It was the option for the times.

Keith

66patrick · Post by **66patrick** » Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:20 pm

I'd never use a hydraulic brake system for a trailer that was connected to the truck's hydraulic system. That's suicidal, IMO. I sold trailers for over five years. The only way to go for a standard car hauler is electric, hooked to a 7-pin connector on the truck and having an underdash electronic brake controller is a necessity.

Surge brakes (where the trailer has it's own master cylinder on the tongue) are OK, but you have no way of deactivating the brakes if you have to back uphill. Reason is: the way they work is as the tow vehicle stops, the stopping motion activates the trailer brakes as the piston slides forward.

Brakes are nothing to be all nostalgic about. The tow/braking systems of the '60s and the '70s were not very good, period. Upgrade to the best you can afford! Don't jack around with your brakes, because your safety, and most important, MY safety is at risk with your bad equipment. There have been three fatality accidents around Oklahoma City in the last month with five deaths, because trailers came OFF of the tow vehicle. In each, the loaded trailers (all car haulers or utilities) were not braked or safety chained, and hit traffic in the on-coming lane. One trailer had a Massey-Ferguson 35 tractor on it, and that tractor and trailer killed two people on a motorcycle instantly. The second was with a single-axle utility coming off a Durango that was doing 20 over the posted limit. His trailer struck a car with three in it, killing one.
The last one was an empty 18' car hauler that came off and head-on'd a pickup, killing both inside.

Get your attention?

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 6:47 am

When I tow my camper, I pull out onto my street and go about 10 MPH and manually hit my trailer brakes testing them to make sure they are working. I always make sure the safety chains are crossed and hooked up. Plus, I make sure the wire for the "Breakaway" switch is hooked up too. Why people take stupid chances on towing any type of trailer is beyond me. Then, when I stop for gas or a break, I look over my hitch to make sure it is still hooked up. Do like Pat said, get the good stuff!

Jim

PwrWgnWalt · Post by **PwrWgnWalt** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 1:26 am

To answer the question about what brake controller:

I use a digital electric unit (no pendulum). The exact same unit is sold under various names, my two are Reese and Draw-Tite. New, they cost about $120. You can get them at salvage yards, swap meets, etc. for $20.

They wire into your brake switch, mount under dash (or wherever), and require a circuit breaker. They can be manually activated (slide switch) and are fully & quickly adjustable for vehicle differences. There is nothing better, IMHO.

When I bought a trailer earlier this year, I was originally looking for a 7,000 GVW 16 ft. cheapy. As I inquired and learned (and after talking to a friend who works for 6 Roblees, a trailer company) here's what I ended up with:
1. 14,000 GVW trailer (2, 7,000 lb. axles w/ 8 lug rims... they fit the W200 Dodge!!)
2. Dual-axle electric brakes (all wheels brake).
3. 20' trailer, including 2' dovetail.
4. Breakaway brake activation.
5. Bulldog hitch, 2-5/16"
6. Class IV receiver and 12,000 lb. solid hitch.

I couldn't be happier, AND I travel and tow with no worries. I check the setup like Jim said. I hauled that trailer over 2,500 miles this summer, half of those miles loaded with a Dodge pickup. Interstate speeds, mountain passes, deer standing in the middle of the interstate (midday), etc... and I was comfy and secure. It towed like a dream!

When one adds together all factors, including the weight of these old beasts, the braking (dis)ability compared to new cars/trucks, and the towed load... it becomes apparent that we need all the help we can get stopping our Dodges when towing.

Plus, that mentally deficient driver of the equally deficient rice-burner that just pulled out in front of you on the crowded two-lane road will be glad you can stop (or slow) quickly... and so will you.

PwrWgnWalt

MOPAT · Post by **MOPAT** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 1:23 pm

I use the electric one and move the control unit to whatever unit I'm driving.
ALL my trailers [including the 25' car hauler]have PINTLE rings. Easier for 1 person to hook up, and with the 'swivel' ring, even if the trailer tips over the towing vehicle won't [and the trailer will still be attached]. The OTHER reason I use this setup is that if the different branches of the military the 'grunts' can't break it or mess it up that PROBABLY means I can't either.
I also go through the same 'pre-flight' and continuing checks that Jim does.

Pat

Panelbeater02 · Post by **Panelbeater02** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 4:48 am

I always have used a trailer that is more than I need, I have a 12,000 lb
with brakes and 8 ply tires.
I also believe in using the load equalizer bars, the trailer and truck basically are equally loaded . No sway and can safely tow at 70 + (heh heh)
I know people that buy used or cheap car tires , have a 1000 lb capacity trailer, put a car on it,and have all kinds of trouble when they tow, not fun or cheap to break down, or to need a welder on the side of the freeway!!! I've been all around the southern states, and to the north, and have not had any problems! Some states are really strict on trailers, even if you are just passing through.
I agree with what was said about buy the best you can afford.
Panelbeater

66patrick · Post by **66patrick** » Sat Oct 28, 2006 5:56 am

Equalizer bars are a must when towing a travel trailer or a car hauler behind a Swepty, IMO. Makes for a much safer tow. Having brakes on BOTH of the trailer axles is also a must.

Our D200 and D300 trucks are perfectly capable of hauling a good-sized trailer all day long. I would be VERY leery of hauling anything heavier than a single-axle utility (no bigger than a 6'x12') behind a D100 without significant braking and spring upgrades on the truck itself!

Post by **oneowner71** » Sun Oct 29, 2006 10:25 pm

well, look at the texas rally pics at the one with my car and truck together. That's how much load you get on a stock long bed D100, a loaded 18' car hauler on a bumper hitch and no distribution setup. It still tows pretty good, and with single axle electric brakes, the trailer will pull the truck to a stop. Made the trip back home at 70+ the whole way. Is it the safest, no, but the 71 also isn't my standard tow rig. If you're going with this setup, you will definately know the trailer is back there, and you had better make certain you drive with everyone's safety in mind.