Rear air ride install!!!!!!!
- MountainMoparRobin
- Founding Member
- Posts: 7854
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Lakewood
- State: CO
- Location: Lakewood Colorado
Air Ride
That is lookin good
Yeah I notched the crossmember and the driveshaft completly clears everything except the rear of the cab. It needed a little persuasion. I just tapped the bottom of the cab with a large hammer because the driveshaft was just barely touching the cab with all the air out of the bags. I set my pinion angle at 2.5 degrees negative.slick wrote:old school is the one crossmember all you had to notch or is that the only thing in the way? also, how's your pinion angle and what did you set it at?
- slick
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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I had to massively persuade my truck cab...especially after Z ing the front clip...I had to build a completely new tunnel and cut out the back...I actually had to take out all of my crossmembers because there was no way my driveshaft would clear, but it's a different frame so things are a little different...I thought about setting my pinion negative, but I heard bad things about it...then I heard others say theres no problem with it, so who knows...what's the angle at ride height and have you driven it yet to see if there are any vibrations? cool...you're truck is going to be bad @#%
1963 Crewcab Cummins
1961 Dodge D100
1964 Dodge Polara
1961 Dodge D100
1964 Dodge Polara
Thanks slick, I have not driven my truck yet but I did some extensive research on the pinion angle and a lot of the major shops install there pinion angles any where from 1-3 degrees negative. Its amazing, depending on who you ask, everyone has a different answer when it comes to pinion angles. I am not certain but I think that air ride technologies even suggests a couple degrees negative. I have always heard to definitely not go positive though. I could only imagine how much you would have to have tunneled the cab if you z'd the front. The fact that i didnt z the front is the only thing that is saving me from having do do so to mine, but I cant lay out in the front like you can. I did order some 2" drop spindles for my Mustang II front and the front should only be 3" off the ground so it will be close. My bed is less than an inch from laying out completely. I did take one of the crosmembers out of my frame and move it back a few inches so it would be behind the c notch. I can't wait to wrap up the suspension because I have a 340 and all of the parts waiting to be built and go in.slick wrote:I had to massively persuade my truck cab...especially after Z ing the front clip...I had to build a completely new tunnel and cut out the back...I actually had to take out all of my crossmembers because there was no way my driveshaft would clear, but it's a different frame so things are a little different...I thought about setting my pinion negative, but I heard bad things about it...then I heard others say theres no problem with it, so who knows...what's the angle at ride height and have you driven it yet to see if there are any vibrations? cool...you're truck is going to be bad @#%
I look at it as a small price to pay for a realold_school wrote:yes, that is the only downside to it. I will be losing some hauling space but the dynamic changes to the overall appearance are worth it to me. i like em low!Hobcobble wrote:Will you have to tub the area between the wheel
wells to accomodate your new suspension?
John
cool suspension set up
John
- OregonDodgeboy
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
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You could always just raise the whole floor inside the bed too. That would give you a flat floor, a better place for a fuel tank, and maybe even a place to store some stuff. Use the area under it, but above the frame. Get what I mean?
Jeff Easterbrook
66 D100 440/727 on 72 IFS chassis
67 W200 440/4-sp. Resting
76 IH Scout II
81 MB 240D
http://www.jeasterbrook.usana.com
Frame swap Q & A guy
66 D100 440/727 on 72 IFS chassis
67 W200 440/4-sp. Resting
76 IH Scout II
81 MB 240D
http://www.jeasterbrook.usana.com
Frame swap Q & A guy
yeah i toyed with that idea in my head as well, i am liking the idea of tubbing the center and doing a wood floor in front of and behind the tub.OregonDodgeboy wrote:You could always just raise the whole floor inside the bed too. That would give you a flat floor, a better place for a fuel tank, and maybe even a place to store some stuff. Use the area under it, but above the frame. Get what I mean?