2wd to 4wd
2wd to 4wd
OK guys, I need some help on a '66. Bought it 1 mo ago. It started life as a /6 727 2wd and is now a 383/727 4wd with a np 206, Dane 44 front (out of a chev?) 6" sky Jacker lift/Rancho. All done up pretty well but has extremly darty steering, esp. on crowned roads (see previous post). Came from the alignment shop yesterday to check caster etc. They told me it already had the max. pinion wedges and couldent go more due to driveshaft angle. The biggest problem is that the front end is moving around lateraly and needs some type of supportive bracing and recommended a 4wd fab. shop. What do you recommend out there? I have poly bushings in the shakles and spring perches. But are the perches and shakles less beefy than what I need for the 4wd setup? It seems like alot of guys have gone with the 6" lift-are they having similar problems?
- RussRoth
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 1345
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Vancouver, WA
- Location: Vancouver, WA
- Contact:
Did they tell you what the caster angle was or that you just couldn't shim more because of pinion angle? If you have the alignment #'s why don't you post them so we can see how it compares to factory settings? As I recall from your former post you had new polyeurethane bushings all around. If that is correct and all your mounts are tight I would still suspect you have a caster problem. There shouldn't be any excessive lateral movement if everything is tight. If the front axle is from a chev it probably needs the axle ends cut, turned and rewelded to make the caster and pinion angles correct. This would not be an uncommon problem with a conversion using parts from a different vendor. It is not a terribly difficult job but likely not for most home builders. Some 4 wheel drive shops do that kind of work. Also some of the chevys have a different spring pad width than ours. You can bolt it up but you might also have problems there.
RR
Vancouver, WA
'67 W200/450 CID
AA OD/SM465/205
PTO winch
4.10 powerlock
8R19.5 tires
Vancouver, WA
'67 W200/450 CID
AA OD/SM465/205
PTO winch
4.10 powerlock
8R19.5 tires
- wideblock
- Founding Member
- Posts: 5617
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: las cruces nm
- State: NM
- Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico
- Contact:
are the shackles stock, or extended to give a bit more lift? we had this problem on a jeep we built. the extended shackles would shift side to side, even with good busings. we welded a piece of flat bar across the front and back to make the 2 seperate shackles one piece thats "H" shaped. solved the problem right away. do you by chance have lift blocks up front? cause thats a no no
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
2wd to 4wd
Thanks for the replies!!
I will get the alignment #s Mon AM and post for you. The alignment shop did say that the ball joint ends had been changed and that helped but there still was not enough caster. You are right in that I may have to cut and relocate the axle ends, but then should I just look for an axle out of a Mopar to bolt in? I will have to compare the cost of changing the ends vs: swapping gears, axles etc. Yes I do have poly(new) bushings in all spots, do not have extended shackles or lift blocks and there is still lateral movement of the front end but not a lot (the alignment shop although thought there was excessive). I will check the spring pad width and see if there is any misalignment problems there. Please keep the ideas coming!!
I will get the alignment #s Mon AM and post for you. The alignment shop did say that the ball joint ends had been changed and that helped but there still was not enough caster. You are right in that I may have to cut and relocate the axle ends, but then should I just look for an axle out of a Mopar to bolt in? I will have to compare the cost of changing the ends vs: swapping gears, axles etc. Yes I do have poly(new) bushings in all spots, do not have extended shackles or lift blocks and there is still lateral movement of the front end but not a lot (the alignment shop although thought there was excessive). I will check the spring pad width and see if there is any misalignment problems there. Please keep the ideas coming!!
- wideblock
- Founding Member
- Posts: 5617
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: las cruces nm
- State: NM
- Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico
- Contact:
more lateral movement then stock is to be expected, as the axle, being futher away has more leverage then stock. have you tryed a steering dampener? when i went with 35's on an old 4x4 i had, it wasnt what id call darty, but it did tend to wander more. stuck a rancho twin stabilizer on there and she drove like a dream. 6 inches shouldnt be giving you much trouble if the front axle is right for the truck.
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
2wd to 4wd
Thanks wideblock,
I already do have a twin Rancho steering stalilizer. Next idea?
I already do have a twin Rancho steering stalilizer. Next idea?
- POWWAG
- Founding Member
- Posts: 991
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Maple Valley
- State: WA
- Location: Pacific Northwest
- Contact:
The Chev front axle is 1" different anchor pin to pin than the Dodge. If I remember right Chev is 32" and Dodge is 31" or visa versa. Shim the caster in and go to a CV drive shaft in the front. Dodge disc brake with hub axles were built 1980-84. 1988-93 Cummins trucks had Dana 60 fronts with disc and hubs. If you are getting side movement you might try a track bar set up.
Later.....Don
Later.....Don