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My truck lost all the brake fluid. I got out, the wheel cylinders are bleeding. My truck has hubs /w drums (Dana 44-F, Dana 60 - axles). To remove the drums, what kind of tools do I need (e.g a bearing puller, any special tools?)? I don't have a repair manual, don't know how to remove the bearings (cone type), don't know the torques to assemble whole parts Do you have any help?

on the home page at the bottom is a link that will help you some
there is a socket to remove nuts or a hammer and chisel will work
can't remember size of socket or torque when tightning

am sure that someone will post them soon

When I remove the cap, the nuts on the flange and the snap ring I could remove the flange from the front axle. Next are two nuts and to keep it on the place a lock. What size does these two nuts have and how much do you tighten it? What's the tolerance of the cone bearings? I don't want hot (torrid) bearings during a journey.
The flange is mounted with 6 3/8" stems. How much do you tighten it. I wonder how these 6 little stems and the flange transmits the whole torque from the shaft to the hub. So I think they should be tighten proper.
Did you ever remove drums /w hub? Me not
Thanks for your help.

Sorry, that's my post - I forgot to login . I'm sorry!

at rear when you remove those nuts you will find cones behind them, tap with a hammer in the center of that cap.
You will find when it pulls out that it is the axel
The 2 nuts I refered to are under that and hold the hub on

hope that this helps some
suggest you call Dodge service Dept for torque specifications
been too long since I've been there

Hello Fred

Thanks a lot for your lines. They helped a lot . I took away all four drums/hubs. One bearing was worn down (rattling, metallic chips in the grease), on one drum the brake pads clearance was far to small. The cones round the stem were only on one side. On the other side is a new driving shaft with no cones. Seems to be a later generation like hub/drum. The drum/hub and the brake cylinder are like new (with mopar print, number and the sign 'BUDD'). No bleeding, no rust inside the drum. But score marks from the pads. Nut and lock nut and nut of the front axle bearings have the size 2 1/2 inch, on the rear axle the size is 2 3/8 inch. Now I'm waiting for new parts (two cone bearings, three brake cylinders, 8 braking pads). All parts are ordered.
When I'm assembling the parts, I hope to take some pictures.

If 3 of the 4 wheel cyclinders were bad, you really need to
replace the 4th cyclinder also, even though it shows no leaking.
It is very likely that it will start leaking before long with all the
others in good shape and you will be back into that one to replace
it later......

Your right, Jeffc
As far as I concern there are 4 new wheel cylinders. But I've got severe difficulties and it's near impossible to get both cone bearings for the knuckles on the rear axle and new oil seals for all 4 drums/hubs. All old have gone during opening it to remove the cone w/rollers (to clean and check). . waiting for better times... (remember I'm living on the old continent)

Howdy
Now, all parts are assembled. After a short run I noticed an equal brake force on all wheels. During braking doesn't move to the right, like before. Downhills, earlier only had to release the throttle, now I have to use the brake - the truck runs easier with near no mechanical noises anymore (on all four wheels all bearings are new, too). The brakes seems to be dry - now. Now - I'm glad the problems have gone now. I expect a lower gas consumption