Restoration!

[DraytonCalhoun]

Hello all!
I have a ‘68 shorty 225 w/3 speed. I bought ‘Critter’ back in ‘77 and logged over 1/2 million miles on her. She’s hurting right now, but I’ve started in on restoring her. My plans are to go with 4 wheel disc preferably power.
I’ve gone through Scarebird’s site and have decided on their system. The power conversion is what has me now. I remember Helitool had his conversion kit, but wasn’t able to get it back then. 2004, I believe when it was. Any parts lists or plans for the conversion would be greatly appreciated!
One thing I am in need of is bed floor repair panels.

[martincom]

I don't understand the desire for many to undergo this expense. The factory drum brakes actually perform quite well and there is no issue obtaining service parts for them. The advantage to disc brakes is better heat dissipation and therefore less brake fade during heavy braking. This is usually in a high performance vehicle application, which your truck is not. Drum brakes, typically, have more stopping power due to the large contact area and the self-energizing action.

Brake fluid will coagulate, like blood. So, if I were you, I'd replace/rebuild all the wheel cylinders and replace the master cylinder with a power combination that would have been a factory option. I'd blow out all the brake lines and replace any that appeared restricted or rusty, flush with alcohol, and blow out again. Rather than DOT3 brake fluid, I'd utilize DOT5. It is a silicone based brake fluid and doesn't have the short comings of DOT3, such as moisture absorption, coagulating, and damage to painted surfaces. You don't want to mix the two.

If you don't have a factory service manual, get one. I can't tell you how many instances where I have seen owners posts photos of their drum brakes where they have the primary and secondary shoes reversed, the wrong springs, or the springs in the wrong place. This is all very important to the proper operation of the self-energizing action. If you don't know what that is, google "drum brake self energizing action" or Bendix self energizing action" and you'll find some very good illustrations/explanations of how it functions.

[DraytonCalhoun]

Ah, there’s the rub! Mine is one of the late year production, i.e. both front and rear drums are identical. It’s amazing how quickly the fronts heat up. I’ve had people tell me that they never put narrow drums on the front, but, I’ve had 2 late year 68’s that did. Brakes have always been an issue on this truck. Besides, disc (once properly set up) are easier to maintain.

[DraytonCalhoun]

I learned about Bendix self energized in auto mechanics back in the 70’s. With the parts availability issues, ease of maintaining etc. sometimes modernizing is more practical. I tend to be ‘old school’ but, comes a point, change is more practical even though you have to work out bugs.

[aqmet]

I did a power booster upgrade based on the Ugly Truckling design in 2009 and by then the kit was no longer available, but The Ugly Truckling site still had the instructions posted. I did a write-up on my installation and it is posted the Technical Write-Ups section of this site
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=28606&p=205519&hil ... ng#p205519

The installation is based on creating a bracket to space the brake master out from the clutch master and splitting the lines between the front and rear. If you are doing 4-wheel disks I would think you will need to look at a different booster, since the one I used was for front disc and rear drums.

Below is drawing of the bracket that a member of this site provided when I did my installation.

[dodgeboykim]

I installed a Dart A body small diameter power brake booster way back in 1976 with the single master cylinder braking. In 1983 I converted my 66 W100 to Dual Braking . The upswept A body Power Brake booster clears the clutch master without issues. I did custom fabricate an arm from pedal to booster linkage.

[DraytonCalhoun]

I did a power booster upgrade based on the Ugly Truckling design in 2009 and by then the kit was no longer available, but The Ugly Truckling site still had the instructions posted. I did a write-up on my installation and it is posted the Technical Write-Ups section of this site
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=28606&p=205519&hil ... ng#p205519

The installation is based on creating a bracket to space the brake master out from the clutch master and splitting the lines between the front and rear. If you are doing 4-wheel disks I would think you will need to look at a different booster, since the one I used was for front disc and rear drums.

Below is drawing of the bracket that a member of this site provided when I did my installation.
1961-1971 ugly ducling brakcet.jpg

Thank you! I had this saved to my old computer when it crashed, nothing could be salvaged!

[DraytonCalhoun]

One question is what are the adapter fittings for the master cylinder?