Wheel Stud Replacement

[67step100]

So I went and had my tires replaced today and one of the rear wheel studs is toast, as is the nut (stripped). So I need to replace it and this is something I have never done before. Brake pads, wheel cylinders, lines, calipers etc yes but never a wheel stud. Is it as simple as it shows on the videos? Remove wheel, remove drum (it's a rear wheel stud), drive out stud, replace stud with new one, tighten into place, replace drum, reinstall wheel with a new nut? Thanks for any comments. Another new task to perform.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Search "swedging wheel studs" and "removing swedged wheel studs".

[67step100]

Search "swedging wheel studs" and "removing swedged wheel studs".

OK so i did some reading and not sure if I fully understand it. So the studs, which are splined, are pulled into the hub and then peened so they don't back out by accident? Do I have that right?

Will I be able to remove the drum by itself or is this part of the "swedging" and the hub and drum are now one unit? If I can remove the drum can I not cut the stud at the surface of the hub and then drill it out?

Will I be able to see that the stud has been peened if I can remove the drum from the hub?

Is swedging the same as swaging?

[67step100]

So I found a thread on the H.A.M.B. site that describes how to remove the stud. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/thr ... al.378894/

So the studs, drum and hub are all one unit. When putting a new stud back in place, is it enough just to use the splines and not swedge the bolt? It mentions tacking the back but would an epoxy contact cement work as well, just on the back side?

[PwrWgnDrvr]

In the past I have pounded out the lugs using BFH w/o cutting the swedge and relied on splines to hold a new one in. If you cut the lugs off flush with the hub, they drive out easy. No need to drill, which would screw up the hub/splines. Line up the splines when installing lugs as that is what keeps them from spinning when tightening the nuts. It is an absolute *#%^$ dealing with a rust seized nut on a spinning lug! I would possibly tack weld the head, but would never rely on/bother with glue.

[67step100]

In the past I have pounded out the lugs using BFH w/o cutting the swedge and relied on splines to hold a new one in. If you cut the lugs off flush with the hub, they drive out easy. No need to drill, which would screw up the hub/splines. Line up the splines when installing lugs as that is what keeps them from spinning when tightening the nuts. It is an absolute *#%^$ dealing with a rust seized nut on a spinning lug! I would possibly tack weld the head, but would never rely on/bother with glue.

Thanks. That is what I was hoping. I'll try and use a dremel to grind off a good portion of the swedge and then pound it out.

[soopernaut]

On a 67 the rear break drum is not swaged to the hub, so that should be easily removable. Now whether the stud is swaged or pressed in to the axle shaft, I don't know.

Was it a left hand thread and they didn't know how to remove it?

[67step100]

On a 67 the rear break drum is not swaged to the hub, so that should be easily removable. Now whether the stud is swaged or pressed in to the axle shaft, I don't know.

Was it a left hand thread and they didn't know how to remove it?

You were correct. These wheels have obviously been worked on it the not too distant past. All five studs looked new and shiny, no rust. Drum just pulled off by hand. Noted the studs were not swedged, hit it a few times and it dropped right out. New stud in, drum and tire back on in about 15 minutes for entire job. Seldom works out that way but once in awhile you get a job that turns out to be a lot easier than you expected. Kind of like gambling, you win every once in awhile to keep you coming back.