I had 16x6 with 4" BS and same tires on my power assist D200 and they would hit the drag link. I think stock was 3.5-3.75. I don't think the wheels are the issue. One thing I see is your remark about using a spacer, explain....... I'm guessing that you're using the crown Vic rotors and didn't machine the hub. Did you drill out the bottom hole in the bracket? I have seen the instructions so, maybe they have fixed some issues. There is a known issue of the pads hitting the brackets. (I had to fix mine on the D100) Is the spacer behind the rotor? If so, then you spaced the caliber out too or I think there would be binding. Craig
The D200 scarebird kit runs rotors and calipers from a 90's Dodge Ram 2500. They're big calipers and big thick rotors. When I first put the kit on the truck had some American Racing chrome wheels which were still 16x6 and ~3.75" backspacing. They cleared the calipers fine, no spacers required. this was before the p/s install so I can't comment on how they steered. I changed them out because they didn't look good on the truck and went to these 16x6 steel wheels with 3.5" backspacing. Because the hub is shaped differently they dragged on the corners of the calipers and I had to add 1/4" spacers between the hub and the wheel to space just the wheels out. Spacers like this:
Did some experimenting today. Couldn't find any 90's Dodge wheels but I snagged the spares off both mine and my Dad's mid-90's Chevy 2500's. These are 16x6.5 with I believe +22mm offset (so about 1/2" more than what I've been running). Side note, the tires cleared everything just fine; caliper, drag link, fender wells. I thought I would have had trouble with this much backspace, but the disc conversion pushed the WMS out plus I had the spacers. These wheels should have pushed the scrub in at least as much as the disc brake conversion pushed it out. I tried them with and without spacers and I had the same (actually seemed to be worse) rotation of the tire when static steering indicating I still had significant positive scrub even though my overall scrub radius was back to stock. Now I'm not so sure my steering issues are a result of the scrub radius. I think I'm going to mess with the steering pump some more and see if I can get a little more pressure and/or flow. Might just still be under-powered?
I'm going to recheck the toe-in and caster as soon as I can find a helper and see if that helps the twitchiness. What are you guys running for toe-in? I believe I set the truck to 1/8" last time I checked it.
Yes. This is what I mentioned earlier. If it were me I'd swap out the saginaw unit as several other members have had issues with those intermittently providing insufficient pressure and (at an idle) not having enough pressure to operate the CPP steering box. Use a GM Type II pump. Some come with pulleys, some do not. I used this one: https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Sweet-Mf ... 32907.html
I have stock Saginaw pump that’s never been messed neither. I went back through the post to see if I missed something. IDK what’s going on. Have you emailed or called CPP or Scarebird? That’s what I would do. The last time I emailed tech support, I received an immediate response. I’m out of ideas. Craig
I emailed their tech support to find out a max-pressure the box can stand and if they could tell me the flow rate required to make it happy, no response. I know some people have had good luck with their support line, but I have had mostly poor dealings with them. I also got one of the boxes that they had machined the ports too deep and the pressure line wouldn't seat and therefore always leaked. This is a pretty well documented issue, not just with the Dodge kits, and you can remove and reinstall the seat in the box (not an easy task) but they wouldn't even send me the replacement seat for free because of how long ago the box was bought. I'm not interested in shelling out $400 for "their" pump after the poor support I've received on the box.
It is really weird. It's almost like there's two versions of this thing. There are several guys on the board who threw it in with no special pumps or fiddling and love it, and there's guys who messed with it for years and tried everything and never got it working right. I'm drifting into the latter camp, but not ready to give up yet.
CPP says their box requires a minimum of 800-1200 PSI for it to operate properly but they do not say what the max (not to exceed) pressure is. If you're using a wider tire (8” or bigger) they recommend a pump that is "high volume" because of the added drag on the steering unit.
