Gas and brake pedal position

Suspension, Brakes, Tires, Wheels steeringetc..
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Seanreisk
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Gas and brake pedal position

Post by Seanreisk »

First time poster. In January I bought a 1968 W100 Power Wagon, and I'm pretty excited about my project.

I'm already prepping the first part of my rebuild, a tilt steering / power steering conversion, and I've been happily absorbing all the threads about that topic. If it weren't for the current pandemic I'd be ordering a CPP power steering box, DVF serpentine kit with Saginaw pump and a DVF water pump, but I'm holding off for a couple of weeks until work is steady again.

But I have another problem, a smaller problem that I need to fix but don't want to screw up. I'm a big guy, I'm 6'7" and I wear 16 9E shoes. And when my foot is on the gas, as far to the right as it can go, the left edge of my foot is still under the brake pedal. I have to turn my foot sideways to get it off the gas pedal so I can lift it to step on the brake, and I often hit the brake when I'm trying to get my foot back on the gas. And there's a 4" difference in height between the two.

On top of that I have neuropathy, which makes it harder to tell where my foot is and what it's caught on.

Spacing the pedals out to the left seems like the obvious solution but the steering column is perfectly in the way. Has anyone here tackled something similar to this?

I searched the boards for several variations of 'gas pedal and brake too close', but I didn't find anything. I apologize if someone has already answered this.

PwrWgnDrvr
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Re: Gas and brake pedal position

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

Cut the pads off the arms and reweld them back on to the left and/or heat the arms and bend them to the left.

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Wildergarten
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Re: Gas and brake pedal position

Post by Wildergarten »

Seanreisk wrote:
Sat Mar 28, 2020 8:13 am
Spacing the pedals out to the left seems like the obvious solution but the steering column is perfectly in the way. Has anyone here tackled something similar to this?
Dismount, torch, vise, hammer. You'll lose a little length on the left pedal and gain a bit on the right, so if you want them the same, you may need to take off one pad plate and weld it back on. At least there won't be a problem with you reaching it. :2cents
'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org

Seanreisk
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Re: Gas and brake pedal position

Post by Seanreisk »

Thanks guys. I guess the obvious answer is the best one, I'll pull the whole arm out and fuss with it.

PwrWgnDrvr
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Re: Gas and brake pedal position

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

FYI, getting the shaft out can be a royal PITA. They are often badly rusted and the nylon sleeve melts when u add heat. And the access from underneath is brutally torturous.

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Re: Gas and brake pedal position

Post by Red383 »

I was thinking the same as PwrwgnDvr.

They are a bit tough to get out sometimes.

There are some pics of the pedal assembly in this post:
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=41815

Good luck.
1965 Dodge D200, 318 4-speed converted to 4x4 with NV4500 trans

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Wildergarten
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Re: Gas and brake pedal position

Post by Wildergarten »

Seanreisk wrote:
Sun Mar 29, 2020 12:24 pm
Thanks guys. I guess the obvious answer is the best one, I'll pull the whole arm out and fuss with it.
BTW, the clutch pedal has a needle bearing on that shaft. New ones are available. One can then drill the pedal shaft in such a way as to have a grease feed to the bearing.
'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org

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