Can anyone give me any guidance regarding this disc brake conversion?

[67LSD200]

Hello, I am trying to figure out where to begin here.....the typical issue with modifications made by a previous owner. My truck is a 1967 Dodge D200 with front disc brake conversion. After noticing an extremely large amount of play in the wheel doing the 12 and 6 o clock movement by hand at the tire, I initially thought that my wheel bearings were extremely loose. Upon removing the front driver side wheel, I noticed that the studs going through the rotor have a large amount of play. I apologize in advance as I'm sure I'm using certain terms incorrectly here. Anyhow where the rotor is seated upon the Hub, the studs for the lug nuts are able to be moved by hand approximately 1/8 of an inch. So, the hub itself has the ability to rotate a considerable amount without the rotor following. Now, I imagine that, with the wheel mounted firmly, that would help keep everything in place, but it just doesn't seem right to me.
Any input would be greatly appreciated, including any insight as to where this rotor and caliper originally came from. I'm going to attempt to post some images showing the hub's two furthest points of travel within the rotor. THANKS!!

[67LSD200]

I can't seem to get my phone to create pictures small enough to attach, caption reads, "error: file size too large"

[Hobcobble]

I'd start with the suggestion of not driving it until the brakes are
completely, correctly and safely sorted out. Just by your description
of the amount of play.... you're taking a risk of endangering yourself, any
passengers in the truck, anyone in vehicles nearby you and also
anyone in your path.

John

[my5thmopar]

Are they 1/2 inch or did someone use 7/16

[Jims68]

Hello, I am trying to figure out where to begin here.....the typical issue with modifications made by a previous owner. My truck is a 1967 Dodge D200 with front disc brake conversion. After noticing an extremely large amount of play in the wheel doing the 12 and 6 o clock movement by hand at the tire, I initially thought that my wheel bearings were extremely loose. Upon removing the front driver side wheel, I noticed that the studs going through the rotor have a large amount of play. I apologize in advance as I'm sure I'm using certain terms incorrectly here. Anyhow where the rotor is seated upon the Hub, the studs for the lug nuts are able to be moved by hand approximately 1/8 of an inch. So, the hub itself has the ability to rotate a considerable amount without the rotor following. Now, I imagine that, with the wheel mounted firmly, that would help keep everything in place, but it just doesn't seem right to me.
Any input would be greatly appreciated, including any insight as to where this rotor and caliper originally came from. I'm going to attempt to post some images showing the hub's two furthest points of travel within the rotor. THANKS!!

Here are YOUR pictures that I "shrunk" down for you.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

That is way, way wrong!

[Wildergarten]

I noticed that the studs going through the rotor have a large amount of play.

Replacing the hubs will be cheaper than repairing them.

[my5thmopar]

Looks like 12mm studs to me.

[67LSD200]

I want to thank everyone who reviewed my question, especially Jim who took the time to upload my images.
Since last posting, I've made some good headway in figuring out what needs to be done. A friend of mine who has been wrenching longer than I have been alive and has already been a huge help came by to help me diagnose the issues with my front end.
Now, I did identify the kit used for the disc conversion; it's from SCAREBIRD. After reading their instructions, one problem was immediately explained: the p/o didn't bother replacing the wheel studs with longer ones, hence the lack of thread for the lug nuts.
My initial thought, that the bearings were bad, is in fact the king pins....that's the cause of the 12/6 o'clock wobble.

[67LSD200]

Continued ( I type very slow so, after 3 attempts at posting one long comment ended in my post disappearing, I've decided to break em up!)
THE REPLACEMENT STUDS: NAPA # 641-3115 (serrated stud 1/2'-20) will allow for the lug nuts to thread 25% BEYOND flush, exactly what my friend George had said should be.
The passenger side caliper was binding at approximately 50% of the full rotation, which would seem like a bent/ warped rotor. However, the rotors are true and good.
P/O failed to lubricate the caliper slide pins, and really made no effort to ensure a flush mating between the hub and rotor, or the wheel to the rotor.

[67LSD200]

So, I am currently prepping to replace the lug studs, clean the matting surfaces, repack the bearings, and reinstall the front wheels, this time on studs that will not be too short.

I understand that I will be removing everything again in order to replace the king pins, but my location isn't ideal to keep the truck immobilized and I will have to find a good source for the king pins, along with information regarding the best way to replace them.

Have any of you done your king pins without completely dropping the front axle?
And if anyone could suggest a source for them, or any pointers in doing the procedure, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks Again!

[Jim100]

Those studs in the picture were too short? I thought they were too skinny.

[Wildergarten]

So, I am currently prepping to replace the lug studs, clean the matting surfaces, repack the bearings, and reinstall the front wheels, this time on studs that will not be too short.

One thing about which to be careful: examine if you can the bores where the lugs insert into the hub. You should see grooves from the splines. Count them. Here's the kicker, there are numerous replacement studs out there with different numbers of teeth. Drive a stud into a bore with a mismatched pattern and one can strip the hub when torquing or (more disconcerting) removing the lug nuts.

If you look at Dorman's spec for example, they only tell you what diameter the knurl pattern is, not its pitch. That's because they farm out production to a number of sources with different knurl patterns. Wagner's is very coarse. Dorman's own pattern rather fine. Raybestos in between. If you can't find an exact match, I'd go with the Wagner as a replacement.

Be sure to put anti-seize on the threads only, not where it contacts the wheel.

[67LSD200]

Those studs in the picture were too short? I thought they were too skinny.

Yeah, with the brake rotor to factor in, just as the SCAREBIRD post indicates, the studs will need replacement,
As for the diameter, they fit the hubs just fine; from what I'm being gold, the rotor is to be centered by way of the lug nuts. I tested that theory a bit skeptical about how true I would manage to get the assembly, and knock on wood, everything seems to be falling into place. I'll keep you posted as to how it works out, tomorrow hopefully

[JLeather]

I've done the scarebird conversion and my results were similar. The studs are not a tight fit in the rotor but the rotor is (or rather must be) a good fit on the outer lip of the hub. That is what locates it. You turn the stock hubs until it's a .002-.003" slip fit to the rotor (see my build thread for pics of this process viewtopic.php?f=34&t=40644&start=20). As for the small amount of rotational 'slop' between the rotor and the studs the first time you touch the brakes the rotor will become seated against one side of the studs (rearward) and stay that way thereafter. This is not going to be a cause for any steering slop. You do have to ensure they are long enough studs that threads are visible beyond the lugnut. I used Dorman p/n 610290. Also I (and others) had to grind the Scarebird brackets a little as the opening in which the caliper mounts was not large enough and it was binding when trying to center.