CPP Steering Box Swap

[earlymopar]

Looking to hear from members who have adapted the CPP (Toyota) steering box and CPP related hose kit. I just completed the swap and when doing the (non-running) system bleed (wheels off the ground and turning lock-to lock 2 times), I have a leak at the high pressure side of the steering box (the port closest to the engine). Both the brass adapter that threads into the steering box and the line fitting that threads into the brass adapter are botj (very tight) tight. Anyone here have this issue?

Thanks,

- EM

[johnah]

When I installed mine I had to tighten the fittings a few time till I stopped all the leaks. That power steering fluid is pretty sneaky.
Until then steer on, John

[my5thmopar]

Make sure you have the correct fitting. I don’t remember the type but the first one I tried was wrong. 37 or 45 or an?

[earlymopar]

Thanks guys. I'm dealing only with the pieces that came with the CPP steering box (with the brass adapter fittings already installed) and their hose kit. So, theoretically, everything should bolt-up correctly. I found it especially strange that mine leaks before I've even fired the engine. I think I'll go back and get the wheels off the ground and have my wife turn the steering wheel lock to lock so I can try to see where the leak is (adapter fitting, hose to adapter connection, hose, etc.).

- EM

[my5thmopar]

I also like using thread dope on PS and trans tubing. Craig

[earlymopar]

Thanks Craig. I thought of some type of sealer too but it seems I must have a hose-end to steering box fitting problem where they are not mating up correctly to provide a seal. I'll be talking with CPP this morning for further clarification.

Just to confirm with those of you who have used this box (and since the box and instructions are not at all clear), I used the steering box fitting closest to the engine as the pressure or "In" line.

Thanks much,

- EM

[johnah]

on mine inside is return outside is pressure.

[earlymopar]

Interesting johnah. The port you used is how I made my initial connection and then CPP said the pressure port is the one closest to the engine. So, you've routed the large diameter pressure line to the port on the inner fender side and the smaller return line from the port near the engine? No issues?

- EM

[johnah]

I have had a problem with not having stationary steering. However once I rebuilt one of the 4 rebuilt steering pumps, that problem is solved.
This is part of the instructions for the 400 series, CP50006c that is installed on my 1970 d100.


18. Connect the power steering hoses. There are arrows cast into the
steering box that indicate the direction the fluid flows. The pressure
hose connects to the port that is farther from the rag joint. The return
hose connects to the port that is closer to the rag joint.

I'm sure I have the hoses connected accordingly, hopefully this well help.
Until then happy sweptlineing , John
I forgot to mention, the kit was installed May 2015 and I have about 20,000 miles on it.

[earlymopar]

Thanks for your feedback Jonah. That's very helpful. Interestingly I did not receive written instructions with my box or the hose kit. I did not see the arrows they referred to either but I guess that's because everything is black it kind of all washes together. With your feedback, I should be good to go although CPP is sending me a new fitting that will place the seating surface slightly higher to assure a seal when the hose fitting is tightened.

- EM

[johnah]

EM, your welcome glad to help.

as I say "everthing could be anything but nothin is always somethin"

[Conrad]

CPP is sending me a new fitting that will place the seating surface slightly higher to assure a seal when the hose fitting is tightened.

Hmmm... I haven't installed mine - worrisome that they are aware a modification is necessary. Looking forward to seeing your results.

[JLeather]

I also had to have CPP send me a replacement seat for the high pressure side of the box. Getting the old one out is not easy, I used a tap to thread into the seat and a slide hammer. Pretty disappointing on a brand new steering box, especially since they seem to have had this issue off and on for a while now. You can tell if yours has the problem because the hex of the fitting you screw into the box will bottom out.

[earlymopar]

Thanks JL. What I thought would be a simple unscrew of the old and thread-in of the new seat doesn't sound so easy. I'm not clear why your hex fitting being bottomed caused problem for removal. It seems like it would still just un-screw?

Also, I noticed that Johnah mentioned his steering box with instructions and "In" / "Out" locations marked is a 400 series, CP50006c. My CPP box is a 400 series, CP50006D. The "D" I assume signifies Dodge. Johnah, is yours a Toyota box set-up for a Chevy?

- EM

[JLeather]

EM, the adapter was not the cause of the seat removal issue. I was just noting that if your adapter bottoms out between the hex and the pump housing then you have a seat that is too short (since it seals at the bottom of the fitting it needs to tighten up there before you're out of adapter length). The seat itself is a press-fit in the pump housing and the only way to remove it is to use something that grips the inside of the fitting (in my case a tap) and pull it out. I read about the same issue on another forum, might have been a Corvette box, and that guy made it sound fairly straightforward but mine was in there really tight. I grabbed the tap with visegrips and hooked the visegrips with a slide hammer. I can say that after replacement I have not had any more leak issues, however I am still fighting to get adequate pressure to the box. I recently (just this past weekend) bought a p/s tester and I'm going to tweak the pump for a little more pressure and see if that takes care of it.

[JLeather]

Another note, I would not use the adapter to press the new fitting in. The new fitting (in my case anyway) was aluminum and I didn't want the spinning steel adapter to scar the sealing surface of the seat. I tapped mine in place with a brass drift first before screwing in the new adapter. The new seat was not quite as tight of a fit as the one I removed (which in my case was brass).

[JLeather]

I have had a problem with not having stationary steering. However once I rebuilt one of the 4 rebuilt steering pumps, that problem is solved.
This is part of the instructions for the 400 series, CP50006c that is installed on my 1970 d100.


18. Connect the power steering hoses. There are arrows cast into the
steering box that indicate the direction the fluid flows. The pressure
hose connects to the port that is farther from the rag joint. The return
hose connects to the port that is closer to the rag joint.

I'm sure I have the hoses connected accordingly, hopefully this well help.
Until then happy sweptlineing , John
I forgot to mention, the kit was installed May 2015 and I have about 20,000 miles on it.

Jonah, what pressure did you have to set your new pump to in order to have adequate steering pressure at a stop? My current pump is 1200 and it runs at relief during static steering making the steering poor and the pump run hot.

I can confirm that on my truck the fitting farthest from the rag joint (towards the fender side of the box) is also the pressure-in. Somewhere on CPP's website I found a diagram of this because mine did not come with any picture instructions for the box install.

[johnah]

Honestly I don't know the pressure, i'm running the Federal pump ( they all ran hot) and replaced it 4 time with rebuilt ones, purchased from Summit,Amazon and Ebay. To finally get adequate steering at stand still I rebuilt one of the rebuilt pumps. If your running the Federal I learned there where 3 versions for the different bodies Mopar ran them in. However no rebuild-er references this. Also the things i did to help on my way to fix the problem was king pins small improvement , aliment , spring bushings another aliment, this helped the most but didn't get where it should be till I picked and rebuilt the pump with the most complete parts in it. It's all about the journey not the destination
Hope this helps, John

[earlymopar]

I have had a problem with not having stationary steering. However once I rebuilt one of the 4 rebuilt steering pumps, that problem is solved.
This is part of the instructions for the 400 series, CP50006c that is installed on my 1970 d100.


18. Connect the power steering hoses. There are arrows cast into the
steering box that indicate the direction the fluid flows. The pressure
hose connects to the port that is farther from the rag joint. The return
hose connects to the port that is closer to the rag joint.

I'm sure I have the hoses connected accordingly, hopefully this well help.
Until then happy sweptlineing , John
I forgot to mention, the kit was installed May 2015 and I have about 20,000 miles on it.

Jonah, what pressure did you have to set your new pump to in order to have adequate steering pressure at a stop? My current pump is 1200 and it runs at relief during static steering making the steering poor and the pump run hot.

I can confirm that on my truck the fitting farthest from the rag joint (towards the fender side of the box) is also the pressure-in. Somewhere on CPP's website I found a diagram of this because mine did not come with any picture instructions for the box install.

Thanks for the clarifications JL.

- EM

[earlymopar]

Well fellas, the update is that my box has nothing as far as directional arrows indicating "Pressure-In" and Return". But CPP did correct themselves and confirmed the pressure port is the one closest to the inner fender (not what they said previously). Before I added the taller seats they sent I decided to check their pre-installed adapter fittings for seating torque (the brass pieces between the Toyota box and the hose fittings). This time I used a ratchet and extension with a socket and was able to get quite a bit more rotation out of the adapter fitting. I swapped my hoses back to where I had them (in-line with what you fellows have done) and so far everything seems to be OK (no leaks). So, I see no need to add the seats at this point. I had tightened the adapters before but only with an end wrench and frankly, there isn't much room to get a good purchase on them considering all of the things in the way in that area. I had also tried a "crows foot" wrench but also didn't get the fitting as tight as it is now.

I'm running a GM Type II PS pump typically found in a corvette so I'll let you know in a few days how everything works out.

- EM