Ready to cut the frame

[Drummerdad]

I have avoided making this thread for awhile, fearing the "use the search function" beatdown I might receive. I have searched and I just cant find many good pictures or threads to make me feel better. For the record, I have looked through the suggested threads in the search results, and most of them are old and the links are not complete, or I dont have access to the pictures, etc..

So for informational purposes, I have a short bed 67 d100 sweptside, and we call it "Isaacs truck" (it was my sons), and I have a 67 d200 longbed donor we call "the parts truck". Isaacs truck has a poorly modified frame. I didnt know it when we bought it, but it is unsafe for sure. I bought the parts truck as a donor, and have plenty of good parts from it, especially an unmolested frame. But its a long bed frame. I have searched, and looked, and Im sure I have read to remove 14" behind the cab, in front of the spring hangers. Also another 10" at the rear, but Im not as certain on that.

I know this probably gets asked a lot. And I am sorry. But I just want to ask for some before, during and after pictures. When I search, the first 5 or 6 results are from my build thread where I have mentioned the fact I have to do this. I am ready to cut, as long as I have it right. I will post links to what I have laid out, and you all feel free to comment.

I also tried to directly post a picture, but even resizing it to 25% and cropping doesnt meet the forum guidelines. Ill just post the link.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JO_8la ... sp=sharing

This is the layout. It looks busy, but it makes sense. Ill remove 2 sections (not really, but it is easier to describe that way) that are 14" long, and offset by 5" splitting the frame horizontally down the middle. Basically making a tetris piece on its side. By splitting the cut down the middle, it will give me over 12" of weld surface. The side kickouts are 5" long. I hope this makes sense. The radii are based on a 1-1/2" hole. No sharp corners to weaken it. Then Ill smooth it and cover the whole seam with a large plate welded over it.

I just want to make sure Im not missing something. I work on helicopters for a living, not trucks. Ive never cut a frame in half. I have drilled and cut large holes in aircraft costing millions. They usually have good instructions though. My measurements seem ok. Isaacs truck is 14" longer from the back of the cab to the middle of the first crossmember. If I remove the 14", they should match. Does this seem right?

[Conrad]

You might also look at the instructions for the C10 shortbed kit as a sanity check. Hot rod garage did a episode on that. If I were doing that after completing the splice/welding I would add another welded plate across the welded sections. But that’s probably overkill.

https://www.brotherstrucks.com/63-72-LO ... o/LTSC372/

I think your idea about using a ‘tetris’ type of splice is a better idea than their straight cut. That’s probably why they use an inner sleeve to reinforce that section.

[Drummerdad]

I plan on also welding a square patch over it. It will overlap by 1 inch on the ends. So it will be about 6" by 7". Thanks for the advice. I have watched probably 20 videos on the shortening and splicing. The chevy guys have a kit with reference holes and cut marks, and lots of instructions. Not much for sweptlines.

I'm going to remove the bed on Isaacs truck and triple check before cutting.

[marklein]

If you can make a template, make one. I had to replace the rear portion of the frame on my 67 w100 I'm building. I made 2 identical steel templates that used the holes at the rear spring hanger. Used on both sides, it allowed me to make sure both sides were identical. I was in the same situation, it seems a really daunting task to cut a frame up, I'll admit that i was scared to do it. Once cut, and ready to go back together, it isnt as bad as it seems. Measure many times bolt it together, make sure it measures correct, then weld it up. I boxed the frame on the inside to strenthen it. I have a cousin that has done lots of frames, he said weld both sides, then clean them up. Your mockup looks good, just make sure that both sides are the same. When i cut mine, i cut the corners round, not square, it's harder to fit, but supposedly stronger as there are no 90 degree cuts. I have pics in my build thread, under fargo w100.

[Drummerdad]

Thank you. I have measured, and double checked. Im hoping tomorrow I can remove the bed from Isaacs truck and triple check the measurements. After that Im ready to start. I will be cutting the corners on a radius. I picked a 1-1/2 diameter hole as a reference for really no reason at all. I have 1-1/2" hole saws, so I guess that will work. It is scary. Ive been looking at it, and trying to make sure Im not missing anything. Its crazy, I can cut into a helicopter with little thought or regard. This has me nervous. I guess its just new. I plan on boxing eventually. The goal for now is to shorten the frame, add the IFS, and put it back together for awhile. Itll be an okay driver if I can get it back together by next summer. I have so many things I want to do to it while I have it apart, but I cant. So, this will be version 1.0 I guess. Then I have to start gathering parts for the next round.

[marklein]

I felt exactly as you do. I build transmissions every day with little thought of how many pieces there are in some oc these units. But cutting and sectioning a frame, with 3 pieces made me nervous. Comfort zone, i guess.

[soopernaut]

There are still lots of rusty junk trucks out there with good frames. If you make a mistake you can get another frame or even redo your work on your existing frame.