Uncle Jimmys IFS

[Drummerdad]

I have been looking into an IFS for Isaacs 67, and I found Uncle Jimmys Jalopies IFS and triangulated 4 link kits. It looks like a great kit, and comes with all the features I was going to add after the IFS clip swap anyway. It seems like a good idea to me. Has anyone here installed one? I searched for it, and didnt get any results. https://unclejimmysjalopys.com/product/ ... ation-kit/

To be honest this is one of the biggest problems I figured I would have in the truck build. I am very concerned about the stance of the truck. More so than even the ride quality; it has to sit exactly a certain way. The truck already has a very poorly done IFS swap, that has to be removed. And we had to install spacers to get the wheels to sit right. The front track width was a little wider than the rear. I hate that. Plus the front wheels hit the hubs, requiring spacing up front as well. I dont want to run spacers at all, and I am going to use modern wheels. You do get disc brakes with the clip swap, but they arent large rotors, and having a tiny factory rotor showing through a large modern (probably a 19" or 20") wheel looks ridiculous. If I go this route, the cab and bed can stay on the frame, I can lower it, and I get coil overs, power steering, modern disc brakes, tubular a-arms, poly bushings...All the features I wanted. Plus it looks like header options will be wide open too.

Let me know if anyone here has done one of these installs. Im thinking I really want to do this.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Most vehicles have a wider track on the front from the factory. Easy to see when following lifted, fat tire pickups on the highway.

[Drummerdad]

I usually avoid following lifted, fat tired trucks. It hard on the paint and windshield... I honestly never noticed it. Isaac wanted Dodge viper wheels. He loved the Viper. I think if its done right, itll look good. That will mean a uniform offset, front and back, with the replica wheels. So the front track width has to be narrower than the back to look right, or at least equal. I guess I need to stop worrying, and just do it. I got to see a truck at work today, and it looks killer with the front IFS and rear 4-link. Its a 71 Chevy, so its a bit easier, and there are more options. But it sits just right.

[Conrad]

The new version of Wheeler Dealers is running their A100 rebuild, complete with a bagged IFS install.

It's interesting that the A100 has a boxed frame. Lots of cutting and welding... No wonder I decided not to go that route even though ultimately the best ride.

[Drummerdad]

I figured the ride would be better, the brakes would be too. It lowers the front as well, and adds power rack and pinion steering. It solves several "problems" at one time. Of course, some might say its unnecessary, and that the solid beam/leaf spring/drum brake/non-power steering original configuration was fine as it was produced. I would say thats fine too for some. Its just for this project, I plan on driving the truck. I want it to be able to keep up in traffic. I live in Tennessee, so there arent many straight roads, so it has to also turn well. Im not after a corner carver, or a race truck. This kit seems to be a good match for my build. I think Ill leave the rear leaf springs, and do an axle flip, maybe a c-notch to lower the truck down, and a rear disc kit. I think Ill order it this week.

[sledgehammer]

I'll be keeping an eye your build. Some day I plan on doing something with the front end. I see that Gerst Suspensions also makes a front end.

[depharrsr]

I came across Jimmys website last year as I was looking for an alternative IFS for my 1963 Sweptline D200. I have a 1955 Plymouth wagon with a Fatman MII front clip and 4 link rear, airbags with an Accuair Controller. I have a 1954 Buick with the exact same suspension as in the wagon and I love them both.
For my Sweptline truck I decided to try something different, I looked at Gerst suspension, Scott's Hot Rods, and even had a discussion with the guys at the C10 Shop about a modified Porterbuilt C10 IFS. I had several discussions with Jimmy, showed my Builder the CornerKiller Kit and we decided to go with the CornerKiller suspension from Uncle Jimmy. The truck just went in the shop about a month ago, all the old front suspension has been stripped out and we have the corner Killer tacked welded in place. We have one minor adjustment to make and hopefully we will finish boxing the frame and do the final weld on the CornerKiller kit in the next 10 days. We're going with 18X8 in the front and 20" in the rear. Once we get the rear suspension set up we'll decide how wide of a wheel(hopefully at least 10" wide) we'll put on the rear. Unlike my other 2 hot rods, I decided to go with Coil-overs and a 2" drop spindle in the front and a 4-Link with coil-overs in the rear.
Baring any SNAFU's my expectation is we should have a rolling chassis before Xmas and I will be posting updates on my website: www.bigpoppa54.com
We have a 360/380 Mopar Magnum Crate motor, backed by an A518/46RH tranny with an 8.8 Ford Posi rear-end with 3.73 gears. I used this same rear end on my 55 Plymouth wagon connected to a 5.7 Hemi and 45RFE trans and it works great. more pictures in the coming weeks

[Drummerdad]

Thank you. Thats exactly what I was hoping for. Someone who has done/is doing the kit. I looked at the blog, and it doesnt appear to be too bad. Me and a few friends are going to do it ourselves, after I get the frame out from under the parts truck. Ill also have to flip the rear axle, and add rear discs, as we have decided not to do the rear 4-link. I just didnt think I needed it.

Let me know if you run into any trouble. Im ordering this kit this week.

[Drummerdad]

I got my IFS today. Im short 1 box. Its the box with the brakes and calipers. Im sure itll be here tomorrow. I made a post in the build section, and added a few picture in the build photo folder. I hope to start doing all this work soon.

[Mike70gtx]

I just ordered mustang 2 with bag set up from Uncle jimmys. Following to see how you are doing. Mine will go on a 68

[Drummerdad]

Ill post when I start the install. I got the brakes, and calipers, but I am STILL short the coil over collars, the part that makes them adjustable. I have called and emailed and the guy says he will send them, eventually. Im a little upset about it. The kit looks well designed, and I am anxious to start it, but I cant even mock it up with out the shock collars.

[Drummerdad]

I was hoping to avoid making this post. But it appears Uncle Jimmys isnt worried about making it right. I ordered the corner killer kit for Isaacs 67, and realized I was short a box. It arrived the next day. No problem.

The boxes were damaged in shipping pretty bad. I didnt get a bill of materials so I had no idea if anything was missing. I contacted them, and he asked me to send a picture of the parts, which I did. He determined I was missing the upper portion of the adjustable coil over shocks. I have the shock itself, and the spring. The adjustable portion is missing. I told him to send it as soon as he could, and that I still needed it for mock up even though I might not be installing the IFS for a few more weeks. He said that was fine he would get them right out to me.

I tried calling and even sent him a text on November 5th. Since then I have sent messages by email twice, sent texts, sent messages on the website, and left voicemails....All unanswered. Apparently he has decided to not send my parts. I hope he somehow sees this, and responds or does the right thing and sends the parts. I will inform you if he makes it right.

What I need from those who have the corner carver with coil overs is a measurement. I need to know how long the shocks are, eye to eye, or a way to determine this measurement. It looks like Ill be buying a set to put this in.

[Drummerdad]

For my Sweptline truck I decided to try something different, I looked at Gerst suspension, Scott's Hot Rods, and even had a discussion with the guys at the C10 Shop about a modified Porterbuilt C10 IFS. I had several discussions with Jimmy, showed my Builder the CornerKiller Kit and we decided to go with the CornerKiller suspension from Uncle Jimmy.

.......more pictures in the coming weeks

I was hoping to get some information from you or some of the other guys who have done this.

Do the lower control arms need to be parallel to the ground when installed? How long is the shock? I guess I can mock up with a bar for awhile, and give myself time to get shocks either from Uncle Jimmys, or another source. If I get shock that are too long, I guess I can modify the upper shock mount. Looking at the pictures (which there arent a lot) it looks like I position the lower, then assemble and add the top. I think thats what the instructions on his site say anyway.

I cant do anything right now. We got about 10" of snow, and I need to remove the engine to continue. I am gathering tools and work aids right now. I just bought a metal lawn and garden cart that holds 1000 lbs. Im going to use it to move the beds and cabs around the yard. I also bought an engine leveler.

[Drummerdad]

So today I got the adjustable portion of the shocks. Im glad he made this right for me. I hope to start the install soon. Im borrowing a welder this weekend, and cutting this frame one way or the other. Hopefully Ill have some updated pictures soon. I just wanted to make sure I made a post about the shock parts. Merry late Christmas for me.

[Mike70gtx]

I just got started put my kit on from uncle jimmy for my 68 sweptline. It sure seems like my crossmember is too short. How wide does yous measure? Mine is around 33" and the inside of the frame is about 32. I just called him today and waiting for a reply. (It's probably backwards, just set it down for reference)

[Hobcobble]

I just got started put my kit on from uncle jimmy for my 68 sweptline. It sure seems like my crossmember is too short. How wide does yous measure? Mine is around 33" and the inside of the frame is about 32. I just called him today and waiting for a reply. (It's probably backwards, just set it down for reference)

Are you converting to an automatic transmission?
If so, perhaps that cross member in the pic might attach to the
"stubs" that remain when you remove the manual
transmission bell housing cross member.

John

[Drummerdad]

I just got started put my kit on from uncle jimmy for my 68 sweptline. It sure seems like my crossmember is too short. How wide does yous measure? Mine is around 33" and the inside of the frame is about 32. I just called him today and waiting for a reply. (It's probably backwards, just set it down for reference)

I havent got that far yet. Ill try and get a measurement tomorrow. Im still shortening the frame. I got a new welder, and its taken me 2 weeks to get all the stuff ready for it. We have the frame shortened, and welded back, now we are filling and grinding. Then we will start boxing. Stephen got the boxing plates cut and they should be ready to go in.

Are you converting to an automatic transmission?
If so, perhaps that cross member in the pic might attach to the
"stubs" that remain when you remove the manual
transmission bell housing cross member.

John

According to the instructions, that looks like its in the right place. When we cut the frame, I searched for a good reference point to make sure it was square and had a bit of trouble. I noticed a few places where the measurements were not the same from side to side. Nothing as big as an inch though

[Drummerdad]

I couldnt help it, I had to go and check. So my frame at the axle center-line is almost dead on 32". The cross member is 33-1/4" across. Im not sure exactly where the cross member will go, in reference to the axle center-line, but the frame tapers in moving forward, and I assume the cross member would go forward before it went backward, if that makes sense. If I understand it correctly, the original axle center-line is the starting reference, but it might move forward by an inch or so, depending on how low I go with it.

Hope that helps. I hope to start mine in a few weeks. Ill keep an eye on this to see if you have any problems.

[Mike70gtx]

I did talk to Jimmy several weeks ago. It sounds like the cross member will barely have anything to sit on because it is so narrow compared to frame. He said no problem I just need to make two triangles with 1/4 inch and connect them with a plate to reinforce it for each side. He said it would handle the 6.7 diesel I'm putting in. He was going to draw me a picture but has not done that yet. I am going to cut my cross member today and tack it in. I'm not sure yet where the gussets will go. I will try to add pics as I go.

[Drummerdad]

I set mine on top of the frame, and checked it out. It will have a small lip for the frame to sit on, but I had planned on boxing it in anyway, so I will also add some pieces to make it go to the outside edge of the frame, then add a plate that will curl around and finish it off. I think mine will be fine also. The welds will hold it for sure.