Disc Brakes here I come!

[jimharold]

Hey Folks,

Just ordered the Scarebird disc brakes conversion kit for my 1968 D-100. Went with the hubs and plates since I don't have access to a mill and want this done before summer is over. Got rotors, calipers, hoses, and a disc master cylinder from Amazon. With free shipping it just made since. Wish me luck and I'll post photos and any hang-ups along the way.

Talk at you all later,
Jimharold

[Txas2step]

Used the Scarebird set up on my '61, '67 D100's and '65 Dart GT.

[Conrad]

Good luck. Despite how easy it sounds, in my experience so far - not so easy to find the right pieces that function and work well together.

[sambudo]

Following I just redid all my brakes new everything. Kept it stock drums. But diffinetly interested in disc brakes possibly power booster.

[Conrad]

It really depends on how/where you drive. Drums were working 'ok' for me -except- being in Austin city traffic, people will pull in front of you and that 'oh chit' moment will convince you that you need to stop quicker.

I ended up using a brake booster - master cylinder combo from Pirate Jacks in Asheville, NC. I think the setup is for late 60s B/C bodies but they also marketed it for the trucks. I liked it because it looks era correct.

Update on my disc brake install here: viewtopic.php?f=34&t=40805&p=299452#p299452

[jimharold]

All done. Would post all photos at once but when I do they wont come up after preview. So here is a few, one post at a time.

Everything from Scarebird.

Jimharold

[jimharold]

Valve bracket. Daughter got a laugh before I bent it.

Simple pattern.

Jimharold

[jimharold]

Changed the tubing to reuse the old stuff.

Jimharold

[jimharold]

Valve tubing. Had to do it that way because of the very tight bend. A Wilwood part.

Jimharold

[jimharold]

And the finished job.

A thing of beauty.

1534876225758.jpg (35.4 KiB) Viewed 1671 times

Jimharold

[Conrad]

Man that was fast. I'm jealous. It was about a year to get to that point for me... But much of that time was working out the kinks on the booster/brake pedal mechanism.

I'm still not happy with the length of the front caliper flexible line (too long). My calipers look totally different than yours however. Do you have a list of parts you ended up using?

The other problem I'm having is that my dust caps won't stay on, they keep popping off when I drive the truck around the block. Fortunately, I'm working on the front radiator/fan assembly so the truck isn't moving right now.

[jimharold]

Hey Conrad,

It's funny your dust caps wont stay on. Mine flew off also. I had to flare them out a little with pliers.
The booster and master are from a 72' Dodge 100. I'll put a list together with part numbers soon.

Jimharold

[Fugowwee]

Hello Conrad,

I have a couple of sweptlines to play with and I am thinking about making my shortbox a 2wd. It was a 2wd but currently has 4x4 parts on it. I have a 2wd to get parts off of and I am trying to decide if I want to use the stock I-beam or go with a 72 to 93 frame. How does your truck drive since the disc brake conversion? Oh and very nice job by the way!

Thanks,
Gene

[jimharold]

Hey All,

Sorry it took so long to post this parts list. The truck is working great, my 17 year old daughter is running back and forth to school. She loves the way people give her thumbs up all the time. It stops fast and straight. Here are the main parts I got from Amazon. The hubs and backer plates were from Scarebird.

Master cylinder: Cardone 13-1515, $23.
Booster: Cardone 54-73716, $83.
Calipers loaded: Raybestos RC4415, $63 and RC4416, $62.
Hoses: Raybestos BH36855, $13 and BH36956, $6.
Rotors: pair from Amazon not available now: $51.
Proportioning Valve: Wilwood 4444/30 260-11179, $83. I also used a 3/8"-24 Inverted Male Flare Plug on one of the outputs to the front. I used the factory distribution block with warning light switch. And I removed the switch on the Wilwood valve and plugged it for a cleaner look.

No modification to the booster, but I did have to drill the holes for a 4 bolt booster onto the firewall. And added a 1/8" spacer between the booster and firewall so the rod to the pedal was spot on.

I need to go look under the dash quick and verify the holes in the firewall. I drilled the out and recall holes in the padding from the factory. I'll get back to you all after I figure this out. Memory sucks the older I get.

Talk at you later,
Jimharold

Here is what I started with.

I need to check the holes out from the booster.

[jimharold]

All right I checked it out. Here is a picture from under the dash. Lots of room for the new holes. Just try your best to line it up.

New holes.

Good luck to all going the disc route,
Jimharold

[jimharold]

Update: here is the spacer between the booster and the firewall. As you can see it cleared the lip on the firewall.

Spacer.

I hope this booster holds up as the first ones lasted only 11 months. Same Cardone part.

[Conrad]

Excellent follow up on the build and parts list. Thanks!

Although I haven’t gotten as far as I’ve wanted, I was able to take the truck around the neighborhood this past weekend for a shakedown and although the front is higher up than I want everything works well. It’s interesting that these two disc brake swaps started out the same but went two different paths.

I have a 2wd to get parts off of and I am trying to decide if I want to use the stock I-beam or go with a 72 to 93 frame. How does your truck drive since the disc brake conversion?

Hey Gene, I’m thinking Im gonna swap the old beam back in and get the 70 beam dropped. At the point I’m at now, I’ve spent enough money to have bought a custom front end. But for me it was important to keep the original frame setup. If you are interested in swapping frames check out Dylan McCool shop truck on YouTube. https://youtu.be/ImhLfUTUYq0

[Scarebird]

Jim, glad you like the setup. We have heard of issue with the dust caps on all makes, only one company, Dorman, make a wide variety of caps. We may need to recommend slightly ovaling the cap for a tighter fit.