Aftermarket Overload Springs

[Wildergarten]

Hi,
My W200 is currently rated at 5500#.
The Dana 60 rear axle it has is good for 6500#.
I would like to add overload springs to take the rear axle to max capacity.
The type that sits under the stock leaf springs looks to be most appropriate because they leave the stock ride unaffected.
It also emulates the stock overload system typical of the W300.
I would like to know what manufacturer and part number to obtain to meet these goals.
Thanks!
Mark

[Wildergarten]

Got a set of factory overload springs with the latest donor truck.

[RonHall76]

Am trying to repair/replace a busted overload spring on a 68 W200. Was modified to use as a crane/winch truck for a log cabin build. Also has ladder bars.

Do you have any pics of the original overload springs? Measurements/Specs? Trying to get an idea of what I can do ...

[Wildergarten]

Do you have any pics of the original overload springs? Measurements/Specs? Trying to get an idea of what I can do ...

I can, but I can also tell you that the set I have was made by Betts Springs, and they were not as expensive as I had anticipated.
https://bettsspring.com/

So if you do want photos, please let me know.

[RonHall76]

Sorry for delayed response ...

Had to make a road trip down to San Francisco.

Pictures would be welcome. Went to Betts website, but have not found a way to search for parts ... will use their contact form

Have rear axle and springs off truck ....

[Wildergarten]

Pictures would be welcome. Went to Betts website, but have not found a way to search for parts ... will use their contact form

Have rear axle and springs off truck ....

[Wildergarten]

Went to Betts website, but have not found a way to search for parts ... will use their contact form

Note the contact hangars for the overload springs and that the spring end was "padded" by somebody to keep them from 'clanging' on contact. There is an aftermarket hangar for a Furd that has a bonded rubber contact surface that might suffice. I don't know if it bolts up but it looks like a close resemblance and might be from the same supplier to both companies. Note that the hangars on these springs are bolted on, not riveted. There is a specific procedure and specification in the factory manual for replacing rivets with bolts. I suggest obtaining a bridge reamer for piloting the holes. If I recall correctly, 7/16" is the correct size for the hangars with Grade 8 fine threaded bolts and hard washers.

Mark

[Wildergarten]

Got a set of factory overload springs with the latest donor truck.

These overload springs have rivets on the straps holding the top two leaves together. I'm looking to sand blast and paint them. Does anybody know a way to get those straps off and back on?

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[Wildergarten]

[PwrWgnDrvr]

I would heat it up and unbend it. Having been in a spring shop once and watched the stuff they do with the furnace, I'm sure that's how they were installed. That's probably not really a rivet, but a pin to keep the strap in place.

[Wildergarten]

I would heat it up and unbend it.

I take it you mean the strap. Yeah, that's probably workable, but I'd have to paint the leaves and rework it where I install the strap because of the heat. I planned to put a couple of coats on things, assemble the truck, and then paint it again as an assembly anyway. I just want to get the rust out from between the two. I'll probably call Betts Springs and ask how that works but I'd rather put it on cold to save the paint if I can. If I squeeze the lower bend first and then pinch the two sides in, the tabs should pull up against the bottom leaf. BTW, just bought the 14" U-bolts from them and Betts was amazing. They were custom ordered, fabbed to specification, and on the UPS truck for a total of $85, nuts, washers, and all in one hour!

That's probably not really a rivet, but a pin to keep the strap in place.

Well, the rivet industry would call it a "blind rivet," but I'd bet the end of it floats in a hole only in the top leaf to take up the uneven radii between the two leaves in the helper spring. Else it would bind. The main leaf springs on this truck are relatively new and the paint is still good.

BTW(squared), on another thread I read that the D series and W series trucks had different frame thickness. I just measured the frames on my '67 D200 and your former Green Truck. The thickness is the same. Interestingly, the front leaf springs on my wrecked big block '68 W200 and those on the '68 W200 BB Green Truck are different, with seven leaves on the GT (rated 1500# each) and six on the wrecked truck (rated at 1350# each) . Yet the Dana 44 axle rating on both trucks is the same.

BTW(cubed) The lathe may get its first job making a tool to pull pinion bearing races into the Dana 60 rear axle housing. The carrier and pinion bearings look worn but there's no major pitting. The gears look good. So I'm thinking I might get away with new clutch plates in the carrier and a set of bearings, but I've never done that job. Will I have to play with shims to get the mesh correct if I replace the pinion bearings?

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Ya, I was thinking heat to get them open and off. U could probably get them back on with heat and a BFH.
The FSM has a whole step by step detail for setting up the differential. Read it once, in 78, had a shop do it.

[Wildergarten]

Ya, I was thinking heat to get them open and off. U could probably get them back on with heat and a BFH.
The FSM has a whole step by step detail for setting up the differential. Read it once, in 78, had a shop do it.

Disassembly, grinding edges, sandblasting and primer in 2 hrs. They make nice wind chimes.

Lots of YouTube videos on how to rebuild a Dana 60. It's within my range to change bearings and the clutch pack, but not if I have to readjust the lash.

[Wildergarten]

Ya, I was thinking heat to get them open and off. U could probably get them back on with heat and a BFH.
The FSM has a whole step by step detail for setting up the differential. Read it once, in 78, had a shop do it.

Heat worked. Reassembly required only the BFH.

Cleaning the axle tube was another matter. Found a 3" wire brush at Zoro that fits on a chimney brush extension: https://www.zoro.com/tough-guy-flue-bru ... /G2259871/ So, back to other work until that gets here. Hopefully I can have the bearings about the same time.