(Another) kingpin question

[Noelie84]

So the door tag on my truck says "2500" front axle, but I'm trying to get my old kingpins out and I'll be darned if there isn't a retaining pin instead of a bolt in there underneath all that old grease. I've got the 2500lb kit on hand but I can just return it if I've got the 2200lb unit.

Now, I've got a couple of questions on this thing. Did they ever make a 2500lb axle with retaining/set pins instead of bolts? And how do I get the retaining pins out (other than BFH, penetrating oil, and heat)? Is there a certain direction I need to drive them in? I spent 3+ hours on the driver's side this afternoon heating and beating in both directions and has near as I can tell it hasn't budged one iota.

I was really hoping I'd have bolts underneath all that grease. Worse case scenario that way would be that I'd have to drill a bolt and weld a new head onto it with the Hobart (which, conveniently, turns the bolt shaft red-hot and lets it back out really easily). But drilling a hardened pin sounds like lots of un-fun, and there's no way that welding anything onto it will help me (quite the opposite, in fact)

So I'm REALLY hoping that one of you can give me some pointers to help get them out of there so I can have my truck (and my garage space) back.

[Oshork67]

I soaked mine with penetrate oil and used an air hammer they came right out. Are you sure the axle isn't a 3800lb? I thought that was the only one with the pin instead of the bolt. I just did mine rock auto had the moog kit with the bearing

[Noelie84]

I soaked mine with penetrate oil and used an air hammer they came right out. Are you sure the axle isn't a 3800lb? I thought that was the only one with the pin instead of the bolt. I just did mine rock auto had the moog kit with the bearing

No, definitely not a 3800lb. Mine's got the single cup axle and dual cup hub spindle, not the double cup axle like what you have in your picture.

This setup here:
http://www.sweptline.org/suspension63_68/02-04.gif

The only difference is that mine is definitely NOT a bolt. There's no sign of threads in the hole that the retaining pin is in; it's a smooth bore for the 1/4" or so that's visible on either side. But it definitely doesn't want to move.
I don't have an air hammer currently, but I may have to invest in one if I can't get these pins to budge.

[Noelie84]

Alright, so I got a new kingpin set for the 2200lb axle in the mail today. The retaining pins have a definite bevel on the side that mates up to the king pin itself, and it's a tapered bevel, to be driven in one direction to tighten things up and in the other to back it out. So now the question becomes which direction do I drive them in to get them out? Do I drive them towards the front of the truck? Towards the rear? One in each direction?
Any guidance would be helpful.
Thanks!

[PwrWgnDrvr]

If its tapered, one end should be larger. Beat on the small end.

[Noelie84]

If its tapered, one end should be larger. Beat on the small end.

The bevel is tapered. Unfortunately the pin appears to be the same diameter all the way down its length, and I can't tell from looking at the ends which side has the narrower bevel. Guess I'll just have to keep changing directions until I see some movement

[Noelie84]

Finally managed to get the retaining pins out this weekend. The driver's side was the one that was killing me; I finally ended up making my own penetrating cocktail out of a 50/50 split of acetone and ATF and letting them soak all week, and then yesterday afternoon going to pound town on them with an 8lb sledge and a brass punch (which still didn't work ) and then an air hammer (which also still didn't work). I finally took the propane torch to it for 20 minutes, doused it in my special mix, and beat the crap out of it for about 5 minutes. Suddenly it shot out of there like I'd fired it out of a cannon; made it out of the garage and all of the way across the driveway.

So I started on the passenger side, expecting another headache and two weeks of sore knuckles. Popped right out, probably didn't even take half a dozen taps with the punch and a regular hammer.

After I got the retaining pins out the kingpins practically fell out on their own (the driver's side took 2 taps and the the passenger side fell halfway out on its own) because the bushing were so wasted. So I'm dropping the assemblies and the new pieces off at the local machine shop this afternoon to have everything fitted and then reassembly should be a piece of cake (relatively speaking, at least)

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Heat is the secret for most frozen in place stuff, if it doesn't destroy adjacent structures. Acetylene is best, propane isn't usually hot enough, cherry red is the goal. Glad u finally got em out!

[Noelie84]

Heat is the secret for most frozen in place stuff, if it doesn't destroy adjacent structures. Acetylene is best, propane isn't usually hot enough, cherry red is the goal. Glad u finally got em out!

I had it hot enough last weekend that the grease in the kingpin itself was smoking, and she didn't want to budge. An acetylene setup would be nice, but unfortunately it's just not in the budget yet. But, I'm glad that the stubborn little finally came out too. Passenger side must have seen what I was willing to do and got scared, because it gave up without any kind of a fight!

[fireguyfire]

Noeli84: your post is exactly what I was about to post and I am at the exact same point you are with the same (2200 lb) axle with the pins.
I actually removed the beam with the spindles still on to make it easier to work with, plus I want to blast and paint everything once I get it apart.
Can you tell me if you figured out which way you need to push the pins to get them out; towards the front of the car, or towards the rear and were they the same?
I have had good luck in the past heating with MAPP gas instead of propane on U joints and other rusted items;any tips you can pass on having just gone through it would be appreciated!

[Noelie84]

Noeli84: your post is exactly what I was about to post and I am at the exact same point you are with the same (2200 lb) axle with the pins.
I actually removed the beam with the spindles still on to make it easier to work with, plus I want to blast and paint everything once I get it apart.
Can you tell me if you figured out which way you need to push the pins to get them out; towards the front of the car, or towards the rear and were they the same?
I have had good luck in the past heating with MAPP gas instead of propane on U joints and other rusted items;any tips you can pass on having just gone through it would be appreciated!

If you've already removed the beam it should be easy-peasy to get those old ones out. I sent you a reply to your PM, too, but if you clean the pins out in good shape and see if you can spot which end is beveled it should be easy. Just drive from the end with the bevel. And since you've got the axle out, flip it on its side and fill the holes with penetrating oil and let it set for a day or so. That should let it really work in there in good shape, since it won't run out the bottom of the hole, haha!

[Noelie84]

Sooooo smooth, and zero play/slop. The old ones were the stacked bushing setup and had probably 1/8 inch of up and down play, so I can't wait to see how much better she steers and tracks now.