Sweptline.ORG

I have my power assist all back together working with one issue. There is too much slop in the ball stud connection. The steering box is tight but, the ball stud has to move 1/2 inch either way before the steering responds.
Is generic PS fluid ok or do I need ATF like Dexron?
Can this be adjusted out with the nut inside the control box or am I looking at a rebuild?
I've looked for the kits at a few places but, I'm only finding ones for Ford. Any suggestions?
Thanks Craig

I thought I would bump this to see if anyone has fixed one like this. Craig

You have factory power steering, not the new CPP box, correct? If the steering box itself is sloppy, the Saginaw ones can be rebuilt - Bud Thorp here does them. If you mean the ball joint at the end of the drag link (where it connects to the steering arm), good luck - good power steering drag links are hard to find.

Are you testing with engine running? With engine off you will always have allot of movement.

You can get seals at a bearing house and rebuild yourself if leaking, very easy once you understand how it works.

I have best performance with GM power steering fluid. Only GM part on my truck

Yes factory assist. Yes with engine running. No it's not the steering box. Yes the ball end of the control box and it is not leaking. I guess I'll remove it for closer inspection.

Yeah hopefully that drag link is not worn beyond use. NOS supply is long gone and no repro on that.

Is the pump fresh or a known good one?

pismopowerwagon wrote:Is the pump fresh or a known good one?

I guess it is good, the steering works. I'll explain. When I move the steering wheel while running, the shaft in the steering box responds immediately. The arm on the steering box cross shaft (can't remember what it is called) moves the stud in the control box 1/2 inch before the ram moves. after the initial 1/2 slop the ram moves with ease. That's why I'm thinking something is worn in the stud and sleeve.

Assuming you mean the drag link (bolts onto the front of the control valve), p/n 2227303. To a certain degree that is kinda how it is supposed to work (the ram just pushes and pulls the tie rod), however if that ball joint is so worn if just flops around (or worse, in danger of popping out), that's a bad thing. I'm sure you've also checked to make sure the ram is securely bolted to the axle and the u-bolt is tight. When I first got my truck it was so loose (and well-greased from leaking fluid) that it just slid along the rod rather than grabbing it. Anyway, unfortunately those drag links are near-impossible to find NOS.

Did you ever get this solved? My truck has the same issue. Thanks, Joel

D100/200 or bigger? Which end are you talking about? The pitman arm or the steering knuckle?

O.K. I went back and re-read your post. On some models there is an external adjustment on the pitman arm side of the control valve at the end, the rest are internally adjusted. Inside the housing the ball stud resides in a sleeve. At the control valve side of the sleeve there is a round nut ( two flat sides) with a pin passing through it. This nut adjust the tension on the ball stud. It is to be tightened and backed off to the first available pin slot. Most likely reason for the loose ball stud. If the pin is missing ( solid steel) a roll pin will suffice. I've even pulled one apart that had two pieces of a cotter pin in it's place. As stated in an earlier response if the drag ling is bad you'll probably have to find a decent used one.

MadMC63 wrote:O.K. I went back and re-read your post. On some models there is an external adjustment on the pitman arm side of the control valve at the end, the rest are internally adjusted. Inside the housing the ball stud resides in a sleeve. At the control valve side of the sleeve there is a round nut ( two flat sides) with a pin passing through it. This nut adjust the tension on the ball stud. It is to be tightened and backed off to the first available pin slot. Most likely reason for the loose ball stud. If the pin is missing ( solid steel) a roll pin will suffice. I've even pulled one apart that had two pieces of a cotter pin in it's place. As stated in an earlier response if the drag ling is bad you'll probably have to find a decent used one.

Correct about the ball stud. I just haven't had time to work on that issue. So many little problems and so little time.

Didn't know if this would help. Found a draglink on ebay.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=19 ... k&_sacat=0

Bringing this topic up again. Wondering if it was ever resolved?

Need to pull the control vavle off these are a pita to remove the ball stud apart .Basically the stud shifts the spool vavle theres two cups on either side of ball stud spring and threade rod that attaches to the spool vavle.Problem is the grease seal goes bad then the grease drys up rust sets in the spring gets froze and you got slop in the vavle.