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SB brake Conv. COSTS & master cyl. question!

Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2015 9:07 pm
by shopguy
Just trying to get a handle on the other scarebird parts needed for the front disk upgrade on the 65 d100.
Prices from RockAuto.com approx. prices listed
Rotors; $80 for 2, Hoses; $20 for 2, Loaded Calipers; $90 + $20 core = $110, guess: $50 shipping: = $260.00 shipped.
Classis Perf. GM Prop. valve (actually a combination valve): $36 shipped
Scarebird Plates; $145 shipped.
Master Cyl. see below: $45.00
A2 front outer bearings: $10
A5 front inner bearings: $14
National 6960 front seals: $19
New Studs: 10 - $10? size and part number TBD

Subtotal: $539.00 Plus add in coil of brake line and brake fluid...maybe another $35??
Grand Total for Scarebird Swap: $574.00 Obviously: used parts will cut the cost.....new master and prop. valves are "shoulds"...

Now to a question:

master cylinder: Looking at the 1973 Dodge D100 manual Disk / Drum rockauto listing:

4 stud mounting; A1Cardone 101572M

2 stud mounting: A1 Cardone 101339

Will the 2 stud fit the existing firewall mounting the the OEM 2 stud single pot drum/drum MC????????
Can I use the same OEM pushrod with the new 2 stud master?
Can I use the same OEM pushrod with the new 4 stud master?
The 4 stud should "hold" better with less firewall flex.....is it worth going to the 4 stud if 2 will work?

ALSO: are rear emergency cables available? I haven't pulled mine yet, but I'm assuming they WILL be crusty and not sliding smoothly.....any have a good suggestion on cleaning and lubrication?????????? oil /kroil soak?

Thanks

Re: SB brake Conv. COSTS & master cyl. question!

Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2015 4:37 am
by WD
I soak cables in a lidded bucket of waste oil. Usually has engine oil, automatic transmission fluid and well used hydraulic oil mixed together. ATF and hydraulic oil basically eat rust, old grease and such in a few days. Truck, motorcycle, boat, farm implement... A cable is a cable and I handle them all the same way.

As for the brake stuff, 2 bolt master is fine, 4 bolt is stiffer but... You might consider a late model master and booster combo. You can get them cheaply and clean from pull a part. If people where you live drive like the zombies in southwest TN, you will need modern brakes.