Front End: Can I Adjust Camber this Way?

[archlab]

Hi,
On my 1969 D100, I've finished up my Scarebird Disc Brake Swap (BTW - Buyer Beware), & Rebuilt most of the Front End.
The Truck Steers nice & Tight. It also stops straight (but req'd me to go beyond the Scarebird info).

The only problem I have is that I've got Camber that slightly bends the tires towrd the middle of the truck . As such, I've got higher tire wear on the inside
of the front tires. I believe the problem is due to my jacking the truck up by the solid member. It seems to have a slight curve upward.

To get this member straightened is way to much. So, I'm thinking about adding some shims (thin washers) between the spindle mount & the new (Scarebird) brake mounting plate. I figure this should give me about 1 degree of camber back out.

My question is this: Is this a decent solution to the Camber issue I've got?
Thanks Fellas.

[archlab]

...." As such, I've got higher tire wear on the inside
of the front tires...."

Ooopssss....I meant to say: "wear on the OUTSIDE of the front tires." I obviously didn't have enough cafiene when that was written this morning.

[Roxyflash]

Not sure what your calling a member but shimming the the spindle is going to add angle to the brake not the tire you have to bend the the straight axle to change the angle on the tire

[earlymopar]

Hi,
On my 1969 D100, I've finished up my Scarebird Disc Brake Swap (BTW - Buyer Beware), & Rebuilt most of the Front End.
The Truck Steers nice & Tight. It also stops straight (but req'd me to go beyond the Scarebird info).

The only problem I have is that I've got Camber that slightly bends the tires towrd the middle of the truck . As such, I've got higher tire wear on the inside
of the front tires. I believe the problem is due to my jacking the truck up by the solid member. It seems to have a slight curve upward.

To get this member straightened is way to much. So, I'm thinking about adding some shims (thin washers) between the spindle mount & the new (Scarebird) brake mounting plate. I figure this should give me about 1 degree of camber back out.

My question is this: Is this a decent solution to the Camber issue I've got?
Thanks Fellas.

Bending a forged axle by jacking the truck up from that location is highly unlikely. Are you sure you did not jack on and bend the tie-rod (very easy to do) and instead of a camber problem you have a toe-in problem? That could also result in a similar tire wear pattern. To confirm, if you haven't already done so, I would take it to an alignment shop and have them tell you what the current angles are and what is in versus out of spec.

- EM

[johnah]

Sorry I cannt help with your Camber issue , did you get it resolved? I'm trying my hand at installing the scarebird disc set up and having a problem with the rear seals. Did you use there hubs and if you did were you able to use the stock seals? Also did you install a proportioning valve.
Thanks in advance for any help, John

[RobertGilliam]

They are aware of the seal problem, I had the same issue and they sent me entirely different seals that fit.

[johnah]

The only thing I can get out of Scarebird is use the stocck seals and they don't fit.

[hitparader]

Camber and toe wear look different, here's a pic. As you said you'd only get a bad camber angle from a damaged axle or spindle. I'd be careful of using any washers as shims, if they are not of sufficient hardness you could get brinelling (crush) and loss of clamp.