BRAKE BLEEDING PROBLEMS

Suspension, Brakes, Tires, Wheels steeringetc..
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67 CAMPY

BRAKE BLEEDING PROBLEMS

Post by 67 CAMPY »

HAVING TROUBLES BLEEDING BRAKE SYSTEM ON 67' D-200 W/POWER BRAKES, HAVE BENCH BLED MASTER & INDIVIDUALLY BLED EACH WHEEL CYLINDER TWICE STILL HAVE SOFT PEDAL. AM NOT LEAKING ANY FLUID-HOW CAN I TELL IF PROBLEM EXISTS IN MASTER CYLINDER OR IF WHEEL CYLINDER OR CYLINDERS NEED REPLACED?

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HellBelly
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Sorry So long

Post by HellBelly »

Let me tell you what fixed my soft pedal:

I had to pump the crud out of my pedal to get it to stop. I figured bleed the mater cylinder and brakes and I'm good to go. I did that, no change.

So I removed the front drums and the front brakes were worn down, but not to the metal. Also the little cable that runs from the Anchor at the top to the star wheel adjuster lever was severed on both sides. This problem was not allowing my brakes to adjust out anymore I'm assuming. So I replaced the cable and installed new brake shoes and adjusted them and BAM! it stops on a dime.

To make a long story short, pull the wheels, look at your brakes and checks wear, if not worn, make sure they're adjusted right. When you have the drum on and spinning it, you should hear the brakes scrap the drum just a little.

If your wheel cylinders aren't leaking all over your brakes they're probably functioning ok unless they're stuck, which I doubt, unless the truck has been sitting for YEARS.

I also had a minor issue with my master cylinder cap, it leaked all the time so I got a punch and tapped the top of the cap all the way around and made little dimples in it. It doesn't leak any longer and I'm getting good pressure in the mater cylinder now. I'm sure I was loosing some pressure there because the cap was leaking.

Sorry so long I hope that helps.
Scott Blaylock (Founder/Admin)
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1965 Dodge SWB D100 (Utiline)
1968 Dodge LWB D100 (Sweptline)
1970 Dodge LWB D100 (Dude)

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HellBelly
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Not Power

Post by HellBelly »

Just read yours was a power brakes sorry. Mine is not power.

Looking at power, your soft pedal could also be the brake booster leaking? While the truck is running, pull the vacuum line from the booster and see if the idle to the truck changes... If it changes, the booster is holding vacuum, if the idle stays the same, it's not working.
Scott Blaylock (Founder/Admin)
http://www.Sweptline.ORG
http://www.SweptlineTruckRegistry.com

1965 Dodge SWB D100 (Utiline)
1968 Dodge LWB D100 (Sweptline)
1970 Dodge LWB D100 (Dude)

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cowboy
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Post by cowboy »

67, Iam thinking your master is new from your post , the wheel cylders can be bad if leaking or just old , , is all the brake fluide new all the wat through to the right wheel ? Old fluid can clug up your lines , & the old wheel cylders can have a small clug also do as scott has , dont know where your at but Auto Zone sells all the parts springs , self adjusting cable set new springs , all of it , ,
:usa
cowboy Alvin Tx
67 w100 318 3spd
2005 Ram 2500 CC Diesel 4x4 lwb
LAND OF THE FREE
BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE

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wideblock
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Post by wideblock »

something often over looked on power brakes is the booster valve. this is the little valve the main vaccume line plugs into before it hits the booster. its not just a connector as some people think. it is a one way valve thats supposed to close when you hit the pedal to keep the firm feeling. if it goes bad, then it doesnt close all the way. thus, when you hit the pedal, theres no resistance and the vaccume from the carb actually helps to bring your pedal to the floor. real easy to check, pull it off and blow thru it back wards, if its leaking any at all, replace it. and it doesnt take much wind to close it tight either.
Trey

1965 CSS Utiline.


ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100


"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"

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MowagW200
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Post by MowagW200 »

Our guest, campy 67, never told anything more about the brakes on his truck. Because I'm restoring the brake system on my truck, too - one idea came up: what's, if the wheel cylinder have too big diameters? I guess: always a soft pedal with no noticable deceleration when driving, even though after proper bleeding. I know, a stupid idea - but nothing is impossible. :lol:
Dieter
Mowag W200, 318 A, 200 HP, 4.88 axle, NP 420 4 speed - 2281199520 (on the frame)
1956 Chrysler New Yorker Newport, 354 HEMI, 2 speed powerflite, N56L3495

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Post by RussRoth »

I was not on the forum when this post was made and my experience is not what his problem is. However I want to relate this in case someone else might run into it. I had the booster rebuilt and all new/rebuilt everything in mine when I put it together. It would not brake when you first put pressure on the pedal. As you put a bit more pressure the brakes would suddenly come on so harshly it would lock or nearly lock the wheels. I made some changes (PB, bigger rear brakes, propertioning valve) from original so was not sure where the trouble was. Thought it was the master and replaced that with no change. Made all the adjustments I could and no change. I chatted with Brake Specialties several times about this with no resolution to the problem. Finally I talked to a guy there that knew right away what it probably was from my description. He had me pull the master and look inside the booster. Said if it is shiny inside you are missing the rubber pad that goes betwen the push rod and the booster bellows. Sure enough that was it. I had the booster sitting around for a while before I put it in and no doubt had the pushrod out at which time the rubber pad fell inside. I didn't even know there was one in there. It is about the size of a 50 cent piece and about 1/4 " thick. Just passing this on about something I have never heard of before. May be of help sometime.
RR
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'67 W200/450 CID
AA OD/SM465/205
PTO winch
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8R19.5 tires

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