Rear Break Drum
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Rear Break Drum
Hello Everyone,
New to the site and already realizing this is a GREAT source of assistance for me in my project. While finishing removing the front drums I figured i'd see if someone could help me out on the back. How exactly should I begin removing the rear break drums, the little clip has me questioning myself or even where to begin. Rough pictures and sorry if they're large, I cant figure out how to resize. thanks for your help.
New to the site and already realizing this is a GREAT source of assistance for me in my project. While finishing removing the front drums I figured i'd see if someone could help me out on the back. How exactly should I begin removing the rear break drums, the little clip has me questioning myself or even where to begin. Rough pictures and sorry if they're large, I cant figure out how to resize. thanks for your help.
Re: Rear Break Drum
Welcome to the site.
You've taken care of the first step.... removing the
axle flange nuts. Next, you have to take
a big hammer and rap the center of the the flange.
I would suggest putting all those nuts back on by
a couple of turns FIRST so you don't bugger up the
threads. Rap the center of the flange with that big hammer
and the axles will come loose. Take the flange nuts
and the conical washers off and pull the axles out of
the housing. You might see a bit of gear lube seeping
out so put a pan under the drum. When the axles are
set aside, you'll see a tabbed lock washer in place between
2 very large nuts. Carefully bend the tabs away from the outer
nut and remove the nut. Remove the tabbed lock washer next
but keep in mind it has a "key" that fits in the axle tube slot.
You're now ready to remove the second large nut. Once the
second nut is off, the outer wheel bearing will come out at
you when you [carefully] pull the drum/hub from the axle tube.
If the drum "binds" and won't come toward you, the brake shoes
might need to be adjusted inward to clear a possible ridge on
the drum surface.
The inner wheel bearings will come with the hub/drum as
they're kept there by the inner axle tube seal. This axle
tube seal will most likely have to be pulled off and replaced
with a new one to keep grease & gear lube from leaking
onto the inside of the backing plate and onto your brake
shoes. If I've missed anything, I'm sure others
will fill in the blanks.
By the way, this is the best time to drain out and replace
your gear lube and repack your wheel bearings and hubs
with fresh grease. Give the wheel bearings a good look
and replace them and the bearing races if needed.
John
You've taken care of the first step.... removing the
axle flange nuts. Next, you have to take
a big hammer and rap the center of the the flange.
I would suggest putting all those nuts back on by
a couple of turns FIRST so you don't bugger up the
threads. Rap the center of the flange with that big hammer
and the axles will come loose. Take the flange nuts
and the conical washers off and pull the axles out of
the housing. You might see a bit of gear lube seeping
out so put a pan under the drum. When the axles are
set aside, you'll see a tabbed lock washer in place between
2 very large nuts. Carefully bend the tabs away from the outer
nut and remove the nut. Remove the tabbed lock washer next
but keep in mind it has a "key" that fits in the axle tube slot.
You're now ready to remove the second large nut. Once the
second nut is off, the outer wheel bearing will come out at
you when you [carefully] pull the drum/hub from the axle tube.
If the drum "binds" and won't come toward you, the brake shoes
might need to be adjusted inward to clear a possible ridge on
the drum surface.
The inner wheel bearings will come with the hub/drum as
they're kept there by the inner axle tube seal. This axle
tube seal will most likely have to be pulled off and replaced
with a new one to keep grease & gear lube from leaking
onto the inside of the backing plate and onto your brake
shoes. If I've missed anything, I'm sure others
will fill in the blanks.
By the way, this is the best time to drain out and replace
your gear lube and repack your wheel bearings and hubs
with fresh grease. Give the wheel bearings a good look
and replace them and the bearing races if needed.
John
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- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- State: KS
Re: Rear Break Drum
Thank you very much for your help John!I was on the right track but feel a lot better now.
- mopardwh
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Re: Rear Break Drum
to the site!!
Great directions John.
Great directions John.
Re: Rear Break Drum
Hobcobble wrote: By the way, this is the best time to drain out and replace
your gear lube and repack your wheel bearings and hubs
with fresh grease. Give the wheel bearings a good look
and replace them and the bearing races if needed.
John
I'll be tackling this job myself in a few months. Wondering about packing the hub with grease. I'm new at this but always thought the gear lube lubricated the hub bearings. Just need a little clarification.
Re: Rear Break Drum
This is outlined in the Lubrication Chapter [Chapter 0]Johninky wrote:Hobcobble wrote: By the way, this is the best time to drain out and replace
your gear lube and repack your wheel bearings and hubs
with fresh grease. Give the wheel bearings a good look
and replace them and the bearing races if needed.
John
I'll be tackling this job myself in a few months. Wondering about packing the hub with grease. I'm new at this but always thought the gear lube lubricated the hub bearings. Just need a little clarification.
in the Factory Service Manual. In my FSM, it is
Chapter 0, Section 10, paragraph 20 & 21. It gives
a full explanation.
John
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- State: KS
Re: Rear Break Drum
Finally got some time and began following the directions helpfully provided by John but just want to verify something. When you say the center of the flange you are referring to the center of it and not the top (center) of it correct? Like the center within the inner threads? I put a good few hits with my BFH and just modifying the shape of what I called the clip within the picture. I think I know the answer but dont want to make this more of an expensive and difficult project if I can help it. Thanks again-just new to the rear drums and hesitant.
Re: Rear Break Drum
The center of the flange inside the "circle" of 8 nutsAdventurer wrote:Finally got some time and began following the directions helpfully provided by John but just want to verify something. When you say the center of the flange you are referring to the center of it and not the top (center) of it correct? Like the center within the inner threads? I put a good few hits with my BFH and just modifying the shape of what I called the clip within the picture. I think I know the answer but dont want to make this more of an expensive and difficult project if I can help it. Thanks again-just new to the rear drums and hesitant.
you've removed in the top pic. Put each nut back on
a couple of turns or so to protect the threads when
you rap the flange with the hammer. You don't have
to go apesh*t on it or anything.... .... Usually a
few decent raps will loosen it up.
John
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Re: Rear Break Drum
Thanks again John, perfect directions although I did go a little Ape... . Got her off and ready to begin some more fun stuff. I appreciate your knowledge and assistance though
Re: Rear Break Drum
Glad to assist.
John
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Re: Rear Break Drum
Helpful Friend or John,
After work and pleasing the family, I got a few minutes to get back to work on the drum. While I know im asking you to hold my hand through the process so far (which I GREATLY appreciate), I just want to make sure this looks right to you as the drums and mainly the brakes are a new experience for me. Not sure if a prior repair went wrong but this is what I see... I am thinking the large nuts are pretty clear from the picture (front and center correct?). Originally was/is the washer between the two nuts and kind of latched over the first? Asking because something is all torn up behind what im thinking is the first nut to be removed...after the washer. Long day, its dark so I may be off track without looking at it right my work stations been replaced during the winter. Anyone willing to share their knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
After work and pleasing the family, I got a few minutes to get back to work on the drum. While I know im asking you to hold my hand through the process so far (which I GREATLY appreciate), I just want to make sure this looks right to you as the drums and mainly the brakes are a new experience for me. Not sure if a prior repair went wrong but this is what I see... I am thinking the large nuts are pretty clear from the picture (front and center correct?). Originally was/is the washer between the two nuts and kind of latched over the first? Asking because something is all torn up behind what im thinking is the first nut to be removed...after the washer. Long day, its dark so I may be off track without looking at it right my work stations been replaced during the winter. Anyone willing to share their knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
Re: Rear Break Drum
That tabbed lock washer is in the correct location
between the two axle tube nuts. Some tabs might
be bent toward each nut. I didn't get that right in
my original post. I'll have to amend that.
What that [small] pic you attached shows is correct.
Carefully bend the tabs away from the outer nut
and remove the nut. The washer should then be
able to be pulled off next. It will have a "key" on
it that fits into the slot on the axle tube. Perhaps
you can grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers
and carefully remove it. the bottom axle tube nut
can then be removed.
John
PS.... I added a note regarding adjusting the brake
shoes inward in case the drum binds when you try
to pull it off.
between the two axle tube nuts. Some tabs might
be bent toward each nut. I didn't get that right in
my original post. I'll have to amend that.
What that [small] pic you attached shows is correct.
Carefully bend the tabs away from the outer nut
and remove the nut. The washer should then be
able to be pulled off next. It will have a "key" on
it that fits into the slot on the axle tube. Perhaps
you can grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers
and carefully remove it. the bottom axle tube nut
can then be removed.
John
PS.... I added a note regarding adjusting the brake
shoes inward in case the drum binds when you try
to pull it off.
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Re: Rear Break Drum
Thanks again John, Both are off! Couldn't have done it without you
- Wildergarten
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Re: Rear Break Drum
Until one changes bearings and races. When installing the new bearing set, setting the bearings and adjusting them is easy. Getting a tab on the lockwasher pointing inward is relatively easy. But once the outer nut is on, bending one tab outward without breaking it isn't so easy. The funny thing is that I've done this job before, 25 years ago and suspect I just pried it outward with a screw driver and then banged it down. Guess I'm more cautious than I used to be.
Got a better method?
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'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org