Rear Break Drum

Suspension, Brakes, Tires, Wheels steeringetc..
Post Reply
Adventurer
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:44 am
City: Lawrence
State: KS

Rear Break Drum

Post by Adventurer »

:thinking Hello Everyone,

New to the site and already realizing this is a GREAT source of assistance for me in my project. While finishing removing the front drums I figured i'd see if someone could help me out on the back. How exactly should I begin removing the rear break drums, the little clip has me questioning myself or even where to begin. Rough pictures and sorry if they're large, I cant figure out how to resize. thanks for your help.
what I wrongly call a clip
what I wrongly call a clip

User avatar
Hobcobble
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Posts: 14573
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: Lockport, NY

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Hobcobble »

Welcome to the site. :welcome :usa
You've taken care of the first step.... removing the
axle flange nuts. :Thumbsup Next, you have to take
a big hammer and rap the center of the the flange.
I would suggest putting all those nuts back on by
a couple of turns FIRST so you don't bugger up the
threads. Rap the center of the flange with that big hammer
and the axles will come loose. Take the flange nuts
and the conical washers off and pull the axles out of
the housing. You might see a bit of gear lube seeping
out so put a pan under the drum. When the axles are
set aside, you'll see a tabbed lock washer in place between
2 very large nuts. Carefully bend the tabs away from the outer
nut and remove the nut. Remove the tabbed lock washer next
but keep in mind it has a "key" that fits in the axle tube slot.
You're now ready to remove the second large nut. Once the
second nut is off, the outer wheel bearing will come out at
you when you [carefully] pull the drum/hub from the axle tube.
If the drum "binds" and won't come toward you, the brake shoes
might need to be adjusted inward to clear a possible ridge on
the drum surface.

The inner wheel bearings will come with the hub/drum as
they're kept there by the inner axle tube seal. This axle
tube seal will most likely have to be pulled off and replaced
with a new one to keep grease & gear lube from leaking
onto the inside of the backing plate and onto your brake
shoes. :2cents If I've missed anything, I'm sure others
will fill in the blanks. :Thumbsup

By the way, this is the best time to drain out and replace
your gear lube and repack your wheel bearings and hubs
with fresh grease. Give the wheel bearings a good look
and replace them and the bearing races if needed.
John

Adventurer
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:44 am
City: Lawrence
State: KS

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Adventurer »

Thank you very much for your help John!I was on the right track but feel a lot better now.

User avatar
mopardwh
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Posts: 4356
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
City: Longview
State: TX
Location: Back in the U.S.
Contact:

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by mopardwh »

:welcome to the site!!

Great directions John.

Johninky
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
Posts: 273
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2011 3:55 pm
City: elkton
State: KY

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Johninky »

Hobcobble wrote: By the way, this is the best time to drain out and replace
your gear lube and repack your wheel bearings and hubs
with fresh grease. Give the wheel bearings a good look
and replace them and the bearing races if needed.
John


I'll be tackling this job myself in a few months. Wondering about packing the hub with grease. I'm new at this but always thought the gear lube lubricated the hub bearings. Just need a little clarification.

User avatar
Hobcobble
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Posts: 14573
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: Lockport, NY

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Hobcobble »

Johninky wrote:
Hobcobble wrote: By the way, this is the best time to drain out and replace
your gear lube and repack your wheel bearings and hubs
with fresh grease. Give the wheel bearings a good look
and replace them and the bearing races if needed.
John


I'll be tackling this job myself in a few months. Wondering about packing the hub with grease. I'm new at this but always thought the gear lube lubricated the hub bearings. Just need a little clarification.
This is outlined in the Lubrication Chapter [Chapter 0]
in the Factory Service Manual. In my FSM, it is
Chapter 0, Section 10, paragraph 20 & 21. It gives
a full explanation. :Thumbsup
John

Adventurer
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:44 am
City: Lawrence
State: KS

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Adventurer »

Finally got some time and began following the directions helpfully provided by John but just want to verify something. When you say the center of the flange you are referring to the center of it and not the top (center) of it correct? Like the center within the inner threads? I put a good few hits with my BFH and just modifying the shape of what I called the clip within the picture. I think I know the answer but dont want to make this more of an expensive and difficult project if I can help it. Thanks again-just new to the rear drums and hesitant.

User avatar
Hobcobble
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Posts: 14573
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: Lockport, NY

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Hobcobble »

Adventurer wrote:Finally got some time and began following the directions helpfully provided by John but just want to verify something. When you say the center of the flange you are referring to the center of it and not the top (center) of it correct? Like the center within the inner threads? I put a good few hits with my BFH and just modifying the shape of what I called the clip within the picture. I think I know the answer but dont want to make this more of an expensive and difficult project if I can help it. Thanks again-just new to the rear drums and hesitant.
The center of the flange inside the "circle" of 8 nuts
you've removed in the top pic. Put each nut back on
a couple of turns or so to protect the threads when
you rap the flange with the hammer. You don't have
to go apesh*t on it or anything.... :lol: .... Usually a
few decent raps will loosen it up.
John

Adventurer
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:44 am
City: Lawrence
State: KS

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Adventurer »

Thanks again John, perfect directions although I did go a little Ape... :lol: . Got her off and ready to begin some more fun stuff. I appreciate your knowledge and assistance though

User avatar
Hobcobble
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Posts: 14573
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: Lockport, NY

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Hobcobble »

:Thumbsup
Glad to assist.
John

Adventurer
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:44 am
City: Lawrence
State: KS

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Adventurer »

Helpful Friend or John,

After work and pleasing the family, I got a few minutes to get back to work on the drum. While I know im asking you to hold my hand through the process so far (which I GREATLY appreciate), I just want to make sure this looks right to you as the drums and mainly the brakes are a new experience for me. Not sure if a prior repair went wrong but this is what I see... I am thinking the large nuts are pretty clear from the picture (front and center correct?). Originally was/is the washer between the two nuts and kind of latched over the first? Asking because something is all torn up behind what im thinking is the first nut to be removed...after the washer. Long day, its dark so I may be off track without looking at it right my work stations been replaced during the winter. Anyone willing to share their knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
phpdW7msWPM.jpg
phpdW7msWPM.jpg (6.95 KiB) Viewed 1749 times

User avatar
Hobcobble
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Posts: 14573
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: Lockport, NY

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Hobcobble »

That tabbed lock washer is in the correct location
between the two axle tube nuts. Some tabs might
be bent toward each nut. I didn't get that right in
my original post. I'll have to amend that. :study
What that [small] pic you attached shows is correct.
Carefully bend the tabs away from the outer nut
and remove the nut. The washer should then be
able to be pulled off next. It will have a "key" on
it that fits into the slot on the axle tube. Perhaps
you can grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers
and carefully remove it. the bottom axle tube nut
can then be removed.
John

PS.... I added a note regarding adjusting the brake
shoes inward in case the drum binds when you try
to pull it off. :2cents

Adventurer
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
Posts: 28
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:44 am
City: Lawrence
State: KS

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Adventurer »

Thanks again John, Both are off! Couldn't have done it without you :clap

User avatar
Hobcobble
Forum Moderator
Forum Moderator
Posts: 14573
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: Lockport, NY

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Hobcobble »

:Thumbsup

User avatar
Wildergarten
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Posts: 1768
Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2018 5:27 pm
City: Los Gatos
State: CA
Contact:

Re: Rear Break Drum

Post by Wildergarten »

Hobcobble wrote:
Wed Feb 01, 2012 9:39 pm
That tabbed lock washer is in the correct location between the two axle tube nuts.
Until one changes bearings and races. When installing the new bearing set, setting the bearings and adjusting them is easy. Getting a tab on the lockwasher pointing inward is relatively easy. But once the outer nut is on, bending one tab outward without breaking it isn't so easy. The funny thing is that I've done this job before, 25 years ago and suspect I just pried it outward with a screw driver and then banged it down. Guess I'm more cautious than I used to be.

Got a better method?
'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org

Post Reply