Parking brake 64d100 318

bteam_hoss · Post by **bteam_hoss** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 6:17 pm

Has anyone changed the brake shoes on the parking brake before? i keep adjusting mine, but my truck still rolls with the parking brake on. i think i just need to put new shoes on it?

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 7:43 pm

Since the 64 trucks have a spline rear axle you want to advoid doing a rear brake job till it really needs to be done (assuming it has the stock rear axle).
Some of these trucks have the parking brake on the rear of the trans, (auto or some manules), others with the rear brakes.
Since you have to keep adjusting the handle,
you will have to go to the next step, adjust the cables
under the truck, follow your ebrake cable under the truck, you will find were it makes a "y" to the rear brakes and there should be a adjuster there, if on trans then there is a adjuster there- were the shoe is on the rear of the trans.....
Hand brake needs to off when adjustments are made, you may also have to lube the adjuster to get it to move
if it has not moved for years....
If you have done the above and it still does "it" then you may have to have the shoe relined.
The shoe on the rear of the trans is aspestis (spelling) weave and needs to be handled with care, DO NOT use air to dust things off, use gloves to handle,
clean up wet with brake cleaner.

WD · Post by WD » Tue Mar 08, 2005 1:00 am

If you have the trans mounted e-brake, you are in for a real treat working on it. As Jeffc said, the shoes are asbestos. Odds are they are saturated with gear lube, necessitating a trans rear seal change as well as a shoe change. I have the same parking brake on a 49 1/2 ton 3spd. I took one look at it, and started carrying a set of wheel chocks. That truck also has the splined axle end type rear axle. Changing the shoes is a nightmare. Make sure you have a high quality drum puller on hand. If the drums have been on a long time between shoe changes, be ready to break out the penetrating oil. The drums tend to rust seize to the hubs. I've had to soak mine in penetrating oil, followed by a torch set low, to get them to break free. And, I had to hit the end a couple times with a ten pound sledge even after oil and heat. Rust has got to be the best form of Loctite known to man.
-WD

bteam_hoss · Post by **bteam_hoss** » Tue Mar 08, 2005 11:00 am

i do have the trans mounted ebrake. i will try adjusting the cable at the drum first. if i still have to change the shoe, can i get a new one? thanks for the info!

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Tue Mar 08, 2005 11:45 am

I do not think that you get a off the shelf replacement,
it has to be relined by a shop that does that kind of work...
Just in case you ever have to do your rear axle
here is a link to give you a idea of what your
going to have to do..
http://www.autohobbydigest.com/axlepul.html

Of course you can always swap a 65 or later axle in...