65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Suspension, Brakes, Tires, Wheels etc..

Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby RH62 » Wed May 07, 2014 3:51 pm

I think this kit already moves the wheel out from the center point of the kingpin. Adding spacers will bring even farther out. Just remember the farther you move the tire from the kingpin/ turning point the less leverage you have in steering. This would mean harder steering in my opinion. If you have power steering its not much of a problem, just hard on the wheel bearings I would think.
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby Jake66 » Thu May 08, 2014 8:25 am

RH62 wrote:I think this kit already moves the wheel out from the center point of the kingpin. Adding spacers will bring even farther out. Just remember the farther you move the tire from the kingpin/ turning point the less leverage you have in steering. This would mean harder steering in my opinion. If you have power steering its not much of a problem, just hard on the wheel bearings I would think.


thats for certain, thats why i bought aftermarket truck mag rims from jegs. they bell outward enough that i dont have to worry about clearance issues with the caliper plus they are super cheap.
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby earlymopar » Fri May 09, 2014 4:59 pm

JimsRatRod wrote:Just got my Scarebird backer plates.....$135.00.


1959-71 Dodge Y2 ton Pickup, 1964-70 A100 % ton w/22001b axle
Front Disc brake conversion
1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer
control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of
penetrant oil, such as AeroKroil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove drum by using a swedge cutter on the base of the studs,
then pressing out and discarding studs. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or
bead blaster. Machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.010" loose fit. This
is important, as it is what centers the rotor on the hub. A 100 hubs will not require machining.
Replace studs with X" longer or more studs. Mopar used several different suppliers for the
drums, and they had 3 different sized studs. Dorman 610-103 is one. Best approach is to use an
ARP or Moser stud and cut down to length.
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then
removing nut. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all
drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward, and caliper
opening to the rear (A 100 faces forward). Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate.
There was some variance in the spindle's lower bolt holes, so we left the holes small. Drill out to
match spindle hole size.
5. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls
interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut
to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down
rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner.
8. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
9. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. We recommend buying loaded calipers. Tighten caliper bolts
~.""..;:;:~_ to _35f09t-pounds. Check fit~t and ro~t9[10 c-M£.k,.clearance~stall flexJi!1e-s. -_~
e- < - 10. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1972 OIW
100 or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and
manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportion valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or
use a disc proportioning valve if rears suffer from excessive lockup in panic stops.
11. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to
eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam
from a pressure imbalance.
12. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard
stops, a series of 30 smooth stops from 30 mph, with a 30 second cooling period between stops
will bed in the pads properly. Let cool for an hour after finished bedding.
Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor 1995-97 Ford Crown Vic front
Caliper, LH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab
Caliper, RH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab

Brake Hose LH 1979-82 Chevy G10 Van
Brake Hose RH 1979-82 Chevy G10 Van
Banjo Bolt 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab


Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC 9 December 2008 Rev B


Good Stuff to see documented.

Some findings I had on my similar project that would be interesting to see if others have had....
The Rotors I purchased ( 1995-97 Ford Crown Vic front ) did not require that I machine my hubs. There is a bunch of clearance so the hubs just drop in. I'm curious if any of you have seen this or if it's just the way my rotors are from the manufacturer or distributor I purchased my parts from.

Also, I found that the Scarebird plates (after slightly opening up the larger diameter bottom holes) were also slightly off in center to center location on the smaller diameter upper holes. That meat that I needed to drill them slightly larger to compensate for the centers being off, or machine them to the correct centerline distance.

- EM
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby Jake66 » Wed May 21, 2014 8:42 am

earlymopar wrote:
JimsRatRod wrote:Just got my Scarebird backer plates.....$135.00.


1959-71 Dodge Y2 ton Pickup, 1964-70 A100 % ton w/22001b axle
Front Disc brake conversion
1. Crack front wheel nuts loose, chock up rear wheels. Jack up front end of car, support outer
control arms with jackstands. Remove front wheels, drum/hub assembly. Put a few drops of
penetrant oil, such as AeroKroil on brakeline nuts where they screw into rubber lines.
2. Take drum/hub assembly and remove drum by using a swedge cutter on the base of the studs,
then pressing out and discarding studs. Clean off wheel surface and register with wire wheel or
bead blaster. Machine outer edge of hub flange to fit inside rotor with about 0.010" loose fit. This
is important, as it is what centers the rotor on the hub. A 100 hubs will not require machining.
Replace studs with X" longer or more studs. Mopar used several different suppliers for the
drums, and they had 3 different sized studs. Dorman 610-103 is one. Best approach is to use an
ARP or Moser stud and cut down to length.
3. Disconnect brake flexible line at frame by unscrewing hardline nut with flare wrench, then
removing nut. Undo and remove drum retaining bolts. Remove drum backing plate, hose and all
drum hardware in one assembly. Clean off spindle assembly well.
4. Place adapter plate over spindle with caliper bolt retaining nut welds facing inward, and caliper
opening to the rear (A 100 faces forward). Make sure no dirt is lodged between spindle and plate.
There was some variance in the spindle's lower bolt holes, so we left the holes small. Drill out to
match spindle hole size.
5. Verify that rotor lays flat against hub by fitting rotor backwards onto hub. If the stud knurls
interfere with rotor, countersink stud holes in rotor to clear knurls.
6. Clean and repack wheel bearings. Install new seal. Assemble hub onto spindle, tighten outer nut
to spec, then secure with keeper, new cotter pin and dustcap.
7. Place rotor onto hub, and run two or three lugnuts down finger tight to retain rotor. Wipe down
rotor with alcohol, lacquer thinner or other cleaner.
8. Wash hands! Rotor must be squeaky clean.
9. Slide assembly into caliper bracket. We recommend buying loaded calipers. Tighten caliper bolts
~.""..;:;:~_ to _35f09t-pounds. Check fit~t and ro~t9[10 c-M£.k,.clearance~stall flexJi!1e-s. -_~
e- < - 10. Master cylinder and proportioning valve specs are quite varied. I would recommend 1972 OIW
100 or similar disc master cylinder for best performance match available in both power and
manual flavors. Plumb in an adjustable proportion valve in the line going to the rear cylinders, or
use a disc proportioning valve if rears suffer from excessive lockup in panic stops.
11. Bench bleed disc master cylinder. Mount MC on car, then gravity bleed entire system first to
eliminate most of the air, then pump bleed and test, otherwise your distribution block may jam
from a pressure imbalance.
12. Replace wheels, install lug nuts, lower car and torque nuts to spec. Test drive carefully- no hard
stops, a series of 30 smooth stops from 30 mph, with a 30 second cooling period between stops
will bed in the pads properly. Let cool for an hour after finished bedding.
Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor 1995-97 Ford Crown Vic front
Caliper, LH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab
Caliper, RH 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab

Brake Hose LH 1979-82 Chevy G10 Van
Brake Hose RH 1979-82 Chevy G10 Van
Banjo Bolt 1988-91 GMC 1500 Reg. Cab


Scarebird Classic Brakes LLC 9 December 2008 Rev B


Good Stuff to see documented.

Some findings I had on my similar project that would be interesting to see if others have had....
The Rotors I purchased ( 1995-97 Ford Crown Vic front ) did not require that I machine my hubs. There is a bunch of clearance so the hubs just drop in. I'm curious if any of you have seen this or if it's just the way my rotors are from the manufacturer or distributor I purchased my parts from.

Also, I found that the Scarebird plates (after slightly opening up the larger diameter bottom holes) were also slightly off in center to center location on the smaller diameter upper holes. That meat that I needed to drill them slightly larger to compensate for the centers being off, or machine them to the correct centerline distance.

- EM



mine do the same thing. as long as your hub fits with minimal gap/ wiggle room once you have the whole assembly bolted on and the rim on and tight its not an issue. never had a problem with my rotors slipping or shifting under even the most dramatic testing.
1966 Dodge D100 Custom SC SWB
Bermuda Turquoise
And
White
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby bigbob » Sun Jun 15, 2014 2:16 pm

WWW.theramman.com has a complete bolt on kit using all Chrysler parts. Rotors and calibers are '76 New Yorker stuff IIRC. You can google a utube video which explains it.
One day I will own a Sweptline!
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby HAIRYBIKINI » Sat Feb 28, 2015 8:10 pm

The stock rims ended up fitting fine once I ground off the edges on the calipers.
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby archlab » Sat Mar 28, 2015 11:29 pm

Beware of Scarebird's Quality Control. I found 4 issues to consider:

1) I ordered their new hubs which were machined to two different sizes. The wheel bearings fit fine, but the amount of metal on each side was different. I haven't detected any issue with this yet, but somehow I gotta think that each side spins with an uneven force.

2) This is the MAJOR RED FLAG: If I hadn't checked inside of the hubs, I'd probably have ground up the wheel bearings after a few months. The problem was that Scarebird failed to clean out the inside of the hubs. There was a lot of metal shavings & bits from the machining that somehow got left inside. There was approximately half a teaspoon of this metal debris. I can't help but think that Scarebird would've tried to pin any failure on me. Luckily I caught this.

3) In the Swap to Disc Brakes, Scarebird made no reference to which Master Cylinder to use. Nor did they even refer to the Metering Block (many seem to call this the Proportioning Valve - not the same). I am not the expert here, so I didn't replace my Metering Block at first. However, after much trouble getting pressure - then having the brakes lock such that after about 5 miles, the brakes were super hot & smoking. Because of this, I had to return my calipers (thankfully Advance Auto exchanged them at no cost). I finally figured this issue out & got Disc Brake combination Metering Block/Prop Valve (an SSBC unit. btw, this was abt $10 more than the basic brass Metering Blocks, but I think the value was worth the price).

Because I had to change the Metering Block, I had to cut & re-fit the brake lines due to different valve nut sizes. This was a real pain, as I had to re-flare my lines to take the correct size nuts. BTW, I took this as an opportunity to replace my old metal lines.

4) Location of Caliper: My calipers installed best if mounted to the rear of the wheel assembly. This is due to calipoers & anti-sway bar interference. I have seen several opinions about mounting the calipers forward, or rearward (mine). I have never seen a definitive case for either side being correct. FWIW, I have mounted calipers to the rear on 2 Barracudas & never had any issues with drivability/handling, safety, etc. The fact that Scarebird did not bother to address this issue (esp the caliper/anti-sway bar interference) tells me that Scarebird doesn't go the distance to know it's product like they should. They should have figured these things out - not just left the 'user in the field' to figure out how to deal with their shortcomings.

I would definitely upgrade to disc brakes on my D100 again. However, I would check out the competition (I think 'AAJ' is one).

With all the trouble that I had to figure out on my own, plus the potentially disastrous failure that was thankfully averted, I would rate Scarebird a 2.0 out of a 5.0.
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby soopernaut » Sun Mar 29, 2015 5:47 am

archlab wrote:3) In the Swap to Disc Brakes, Scarebird made no reference to which Master Cylinder to use. Nor did they even refer to the Metering Block (many seem to call this the Proportioning Valve - not the same). I am not the expert here, so I didn't replace my Metering Block at first. However, after much trouble getting pressure - then having the brakes lock such that after about 5 miles, the brakes were super hot & smoking. Because of this, I had to return my calipers (thankfully Advance Auto exchanged them at no cost). I finally figured this issue out & got Disc Brake combination Metering Block/Prop Valve (an SSBC unit. btw, this was abt $10 more than the basic brass Metering Blocks, but I think the value was worth the price).

From the factory the sweptline trucks didn't have a metering block/proportioning valve. They only had a switch that would cause the brake light on the dash to light when the brake pressure was low. I believe the need for a metering block/proportioning valve has been covered in nearly every thread on converting to disc brakes.


archlab wrote:4) Location of Caliper: My calipers installed best if mounted to the rear of the wheel assembly. This is due to calipoers & anti-sway bar interference. I have seen several opinions about mounting the calipers forward, or rearward (mine). I have never seen a definitive case for either side being correct. FWIW, I have mounted calipers to the rear on 2 Barracudas & never had any issues with drivability/handling, safety, etc. The fact that Scarebird did not bother to address this issue (esp the caliper/anti-sway bar interference) tells me that Scarebird doesn't go the distance to know it's product like they should. They should have figured these things out - not just left the 'user in the field' to figure out how to deal with their shortcomings.


They don't know these trucks like some of us do. The truck they used for mocking up this set up was a pre 70 truck and didn't have the sway bar or any provision for it.
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby archlab » Sun Mar 29, 2015 8:37 am

The Switch goes into the brass block (which, in my terminology, is the metering block...maybe somebody has a different
name for it). ANyway, the stock setup had more than just a switch. It's definitely not a prop valve. ANyway, send me a link to the threads that you say cover all that - I'm always wanting to add to my 'Lessons Learnt'.
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby Jesuschrystler » Mon Aug 07, 2017 1:13 pm

Other than buying Scarebird hubs, which hubs do I use? Are there any hubs from other makes/models that will work? With no modifications? I have a 1970 D 100
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby theramman » Mon Aug 07, 2017 1:20 pm

We have the full Disc Brake Conversion Kits for your Dodge D100. See the following link:

http://therammaninc.com/products/Front- ... e-Kits-145
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby sledgehammer » Wed Aug 09, 2017 8:13 pm

Jesuschrystler wrote:Other than buying Scarebird hubs, which hubs do I use? Are there any hubs from other makes/models that will work? With no modifications? I have a 1970 D 100

I believe you have to have your hubs separated from your drum and use them.
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Re: 65 d100 disc brake conversion (Front Brakes) only

Postby Sixfivestepside » Sun Sep 24, 2017 6:51 am

Hi everyone. With my first post I'll mention a thing or two I've seen in the middle of my scarebird conversion. First, make sure and figure out the stud you need before you buy new ones. I bought 40 bucks worth of ARPs and they were wrong knurl size. And can't find ARPs for .650" knurl. So Im getting some Dorman and hope they're long enough. And I'm guilty of putting my plates on backwards at first because I thought my 65 was considered early in the instructions. Got that figured out. Mine also ended up with lots of clearance around hub using crown Vic rotor. And I sure had to get the torch out and heat the lower front bolt on the driver's side. That's all for now....will inform about the studs I end up using.
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