Wooden Bedblock Dimensions Needed

Daddiojoe · Post by **Daddiojoe** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 11:28 am

I know this has been posted before, but I couldn't find it.

So, what are the dimensions of the wood blocks that go between the frame and the bed?

I've got a woodworking buddy who won't get his Sweptline calendar until he makes me some blocks.

Thanks,

Joe

Post by **Goldie** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 12:00 pm

Man, that's cold. (but I like it). If the blocks are all the same, mine are out of the bed so it can be dipped. I can measure them. (for a fee) hows that for cold? ......Goldie

Post by **Seabee** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 8:00 pm

Damn! You guys are harsh!

kww · Post by **kww** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 1:47 am

I'd be interested if someone could expand on the recommended type of wood to use... Oak? Don't laugh, this question is coming from someone who is not a woodworker. I would guess it would need to be a hardwood and something readily available?

Kris

WD · Post by WD » Fri Jan 21, 2005 4:05 am

I don't have the sizes offhand, but can answer the wood type fairly easily. Your best bet, if you can find it,is Southern Live Oak (don't laugh, Old Ironsides is sheathed in this stuff). It lasts basically forever, especially once it is seasoned and painted or otherwise sealed. The downside is, you have to work it "green". I shattered a 4 foot planer blade trying to mill off 1/16" from a dry plank.

Also good, in no particular order, are: Madrona/Madrone, Cypress, White Oak, Red Oak, Black Locust, Bois d'arc/Bodock, Teak, Cocobolo, Myrtle, heart Redwood, heart Pine, Black Walnut, Ash, Rock Maple.

If it can be used as composite wooden bowcores or in boat ribs, it is more than suited for bed block use. Check out Traditional Archer or WoodenBoat magazines for good sources of domestic or imported specialty woodsif you can't get good stock locally. I can get you madrone for free where I live, but it's as tough or tougher to work than live oak. I can cut it no problem, you just send me dimensions and how much you need. Cost you shipping.

Let me know if I can help.
-WD

Post by **Goldie** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 6:27 am

If anyone knows whether all the beds used the same blocks or not, I can measure mine, as they are laying in a pile of parts stripped off my 63D100 Project..........Goldie

Post by **cowboy** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 7:59 am

Goldie, they should be the same as the bed's interchange

Russ · Post by **Russ** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 9:43 am

I just made a new set for my truck last week using oak, which I think is what the originals were. What I did was get the bolts out and then jack up the bed until the body accent line matched perfectly. Then I measured the size and cut the blocks to fit. My truck is a short bed and has four blocks on each side.

Daddiojoe · Post by **Daddiojoe** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 9:44 am

WD--

Sounds like you know a lot about wood. Once we get dimensions I might be a customer.

Thanks,

Joe

JimE · Post by **JimE** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 11:09 am

This is a line in a post from Kris's old sweptwagon forum.

"I believe their oak 2 x 2 1/2 x 4 1/2 inches"

Jim

Post by **Goldie** » Fri Jan 21, 2005 4:02 pm

These are the dementions of the blocks out of my 63 longbed. 6 that are 2" wide, 2 3/8" tall, 2 1/2" long. the grain runs along the 2 1/2 demention. there is a 1/2" hole for the bolt. duh. then, there are 4 blocks that are wedge shaped, they go over the area where the rear axel humps the frame up I guess. I'll have to check my disassemble pics. they have no hole. they are 2 1/2" wide,2" tall at the top of the slope, 1 5/8 tall at the bottom of the slope. the distance between the top and bottom is 1 7/8".along the base. as I remember they were just wedged in there. these came off my truck which has never had the bed off so I'm pretty confident the dementions are stock....Goldie

Russ · Post by **Russ** » Sat Jan 22, 2005 1:03 pm

Here's why I suggest that you line up your bed and then measure the height of the blocks.

I don't think they were too worried about body alignment when they assembled these trucks. This is the original paint and pin stripes on my truck and I suspect the stripes lined up when they were applied at the factory. As you can see, the body line didn't match. I lined up the body line, cut out the front blocks, and set them in place. With the front blocks in place, I raised the rear of the bed until the distance between the cab and bed was even top to bottom. I then made the rear blocks and set the bed on the front and rear blocks. With the bed sitting in place I measured and cut the center blocks. Matching the body line also made the top of the bed front match the flat area on the rear of the cab. It took a little time but wasn't difficult.

WD · Post by WD » Sun Jan 23, 2005 6:10 am

That is the ONLY way to do it if you want it to look right. Stock cutting dimensions are finefor a work truck, but if you want it to look right, then take the time to line it up and get it right the first time. When these trucks were new, they were trucks, not the modern pseudotruck/passenger car in drag. Mine is called Ratf

ck for a reason, but when I get around to cleaning it up (my wife has decided it's a keeper), you can bet I'll do the blocks based on the reveal line and gap matching up.

And if you want your new blocks to last, drill the holes oversized. Go to Lowes or such and get copper pipe or bronze bushings to run through the blocks. Keeps the holes from being hogged out by the bolts, and if the mounts start to crumble again, the metal bushing will help keep the bed at the right height.

Why do a pain in the @#% job more then once if you don't absolutely have to?
-WD

Post by **cowboy** » Sun Jan 23, 2005 11:59 am

Russ & wd , that's some good advice & tip's on the metal bushing thanks to you both

Post by **Goldie** » Sun Jan 23, 2005 7:25 pm

anybody know the real reason that wood was used to mount the bed? they could just as easily used rubber or even hard mounted the bed steel to steel. Did it have anything to do with the give inherent in a wood block? was there a squeak concern? There has to be a reason. Nothing else on the truck is wood. maybe some of the beds got slats, but other than that, what? I hope somebody knows cause I'd like to know............Goldie

WD · Post by WD » Sun Jan 23, 2005 8:36 pm

Simple, the factory hardwood mounts outlast factory rubber mounts. You also get the added benefit of a more stable platform, as wood is less compressable than rubber, and the large wooden blocks don't deform under loaded cornering as rubber the same size would do. Rubber blocks would be quieter, wooden blocks out perform them. If you want a true one time replacement, cut new blocks out of cast aluminum. Squeaks like crazy, but they won't wear out. However, if your bed boltsstart to back loose over time, aluminum blocks will chew through the bed floor or into the frame. Wood blocks are just as strong as aluminum, but won't chew up the bed or frame if the bed bolts loosen up (and they will, it's unpreventable).
-WD

Post by **Goldie** » Mon Jan 24, 2005 7:38 am

Thank You Sir. I think I'll stick to wood as my truck will not be seeing much road after restoration.....Goldie