Lowering options?

Suspension, Brakes, Tires, Wheels steeringetc..
CULOWDRAGGER72
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Re: Lowering options?

Post by CULOWDRAGGER72 »

cool

billwiggs
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Re: Lowering options?

Post by billwiggs »

I haven;t done this but plan to in the near future, but dropping the axle is considered the better way of lowering your ride.
Go to roadsters.com , this guy has a super website, and lots of good literature. he has been at this for some years and knows it well.
Good luck
Truck man,

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MountainMoparRobin
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Re: Lowering options?

Post by MountainMoparRobin »

billwigs :welcome :goodpost

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cantspel
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Re: Lowering options?

Post by cantspel »

Welcome. I looked around the website and couldn't find anything to indicate he has the tooling to drop one of our axles. Looks like he specializes in early fords. Have you asked them, or gotten a price?

CULOWDRAGGER72
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Re: Lowering options?

Post by CULOWDRAGGER72 »

i called Roadsters about 2 weeks ago, the owner said "only FORDS" and doesn't plan on doing Dodges

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by hdhracerx »

That fender work is smart and can't wait to see the truck complete!

I'm interested in the rear "Flip" details so i can apply them to my 68 shortbox and have a couple of questions.

Do you just litterally a. "flip" the rear axle in the rear using the same axle pads or b. do you actually move it above the springs and have new pads welded on? I would think that a. wouldn't work due to pinion angle changing, but maybe because it's higher it works out ok.

If b. then where's a good source for pads to weld onto the axle housing?

What else needs to be considered? Driveshaft? Shock length and Ubolts?

I've been trying to benchmark the set up on the Boynton Ram truck, but it's hard to understand from the photos. It appears to me that they moved the spring perches up to get the drop in the back.

Has anyone here created dropped spring perches or templates for them? That might be another way to go.

I think i want to drop it a net 4" in back, and since I'm mounting a taller tire than what's on their now, I'd need about 5" of drop.

Thanks! Pics are very helpful!

hdh

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by adbell1684 »

this is mine

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MountainMoparRobin
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Re: Lowering options?

Post by MountainMoparRobin »

adbell1684,
is your drop with de-arched springs?
now that I have a Garage, I'm gettin everything out of it so I can drop the front of mine,
first will be to flip the springs over, not the straight axle, but turn the spring over so the arch is toward the frame, if this creates bump steer, then I will de-arch the springs.

orangepeel68

Re: Lowering options?

Post by orangepeel68 »

what is the easiest softet way to lower one of these bad boys with no steering problems? I have a stock 68 D100 383 auto thanks tom

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by MountainMoparRobin »

to dropp your truck and have not steering issue's can be accomplishe 1 of 2 ways.
1. www.eatonsprings.com will send you springs that will drop the truck 3" and keep your good ride. cost $430.00
2. if your on a budget take off the springs and go to local spring shop and for $30.00 each they will de-arch them, you'll get 3" of drop.
The key point is that you can drop the front up to 5" maybe 4" but after that the geometry is change severely and the draglink will hit the straight axle.
Hope that helps :study

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by rat »

why dont people use more cordoba front clips?! im new to the site but am very suprised to not see any word of them. mine went in with the original frame studs modified slightly and has a complete torsion bar set up with the crossmember bolted in. better yet the 400 big block and 727 combo came with it. the truck sits pretty low with the torsion bars cranked up to normal. it has pretty good ground clearance. the motor and tranny sits so low that i can almost see the tailshaft from the front of the firewall. good because the 500 inch 6-71 blown motor might fit under the stock hood!

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by MountainMoparRobin »

You could do that, more of what resources different owners have.
Also here is a HUGE decision maker, the straight axle has some real big advantages over IFS.
1. less moving parts=less to repair for IFS systems do need repair quite often for they don't hold an alignment very long (depending on driving conditions)
2. much stronger than the IFS
3. cost of maintenance is sooo much cheaper
but Cordoba is an option, however adding the parts is a cleaner way of doing it.

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by rat »

to cordobas defence it is realy old technology also. when did torsion bar front end come in 65? the torsion bars also give u hight adjustment waaaay better turning radius lower center of gravity power steering better handeling and easy engine swap. my truck handels like a car but with the sexy 68 looks. anyone beat that?

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by MountainMoparRobin »

that swap is good :Thumbsup nothing wrong with doing it. I don't understand the lower center of gravity? for we are droping the fronts very inexspensive, sit as low as any of the IFS, and can be done in an afternoon and driven same day. As far as corning, I don't see the gain if small things are done with the straight axle suspension they'll perform more than people know :Thumbsup
But that is neither here or their, your swap is good, go for it :Thumbsup
ColoradoSuperCruise 016.jpg
just an example of straight axle drop

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by ttop88 »

rat wrote:why dont people use more cordoba front clips?! im new to the site but am very suprised to not see any word of them. mine went in with the original frame studs modified slightly and has a complete torsion bar set up with the crossmember bolted in. better yet the 400 big block and 727 combo came with it. the truck sits pretty low with the torsion bars cranked up to normal. it has pretty good ground clearance. the motor and tranny sits so low that i can almost see the tailshaft from the front of the firewall. good because the 500 inch 6-71 blown motor might fit under the stock hood!
Did you actually use the clip or just the K frame? If you used the clip how close are the frames to being the same width? Do you have pic's?

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by Mottsrods »

Hi guys, i'm a new guy to this forum, I have a 67 D-100 that has been lowered and only by removing leaves from the springs. The back is fine. But the front is where I'm having problems. There is only one leaf up there and it is bottomed out on the rubber stop on the frame. I have driven this truck a good bit, and overall drives good except for the bumpsteer. I know I will need to adjust the drag links. What i'm wondering though does anyone have any leafs they would sell me. I have the main one with the eyes. I need maybe the next 2 up in size for both sides of the front. I've attached a photo so you can see the current ride height. Any feedback would be much appreciated.

Mott
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj20 ... GA0348.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj20 ... GA0419.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj20 ... GA0422.jpg
http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj20 ... GA0421.jpg

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MountainMoparRobin
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Re: Lowering options?

Post by MountainMoparRobin »

I would strongly suggest that you go to your local pickNpull yard and find any 70-1989 4x4 and get the complete spring pack, then you can put as many as you want.
I say 4x4 because the springs are thicker and don't have but .05 arch, this way you can keep the look and loose the bumpsteer and be safe :Thumbsup

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by Outlaw »

Would any serious mods need to be done with a 4" drop axel? I want the truck LOW but i don't want to be scraping everything i run over either. I was going to do IFS but its way to costly for me right now. So i'm thinking 4" drop axel and air bags.
1967 D100 - Learning as I go...

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by MountainMoparRobin »

4" drop will be the most you'll be able to do without changing he geometry of the steering, I say that but some have experianced some bumpsteer after 3", will depend on the drag link and pitman arm combo.

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Re: Lowering options?

Post by Rusty_Quarters »

here are a few pics of my aerostar IFS swap, cost me 175 bones on half price day at local pic your part had to fab us some upper boxes for the frame, as I wanted to cut mine into the bottom of the frame a couple of inches for drop, if regular ride height was wanted wouldn't even need to do this, but I want mine lowwwww, have to modify the rack and pinion mount to "roll the rack" backwards and notch the crossmember, but didn't take too long to do, some welding required, but mine I think is turning out well, nice part is uses same 4 1/2" bolt circle, has disc brakes, and is 63" wide.
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To my son "...its not always important what I said, its important cause I said it." KEA

70 Dodge D100 no longer 4x4
68 Dodge Superbee (Real not Clone)
68 Jeep Jeepster
2007 Honda Civic SI
2005 Nissan Pathy

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