Bad bushings---Proportioning valve???

Redd · Post by **Redd** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 7:42 am

Hey guys My 66d200 seemed to have a bad master - pedal half way down before brakes would catch also no return. So I decidec it was time to upgrade to a dual master. When I removed the original master I found that the pedal would not move or return freely with the spring attached. Ahha-- bad pedal bushings..so I tried to get the bolt holding the clutch and brake pedal out. NO WAY it wasn,t going to budge. I removed the nut on the gas pedal side put a air ratchet on the other side to turn while tapping the bolt still no help. ( yes I have oiled and sprqayed with PB,10men). It will not budge. The only thing I c

an thingk of is to sawzall the bolt and try to replace.. Am I on the right track?? Also when I replaced the single with a duel master do I really need a proportioning valve as this is a 4 drum system?? any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanksu

Post by **Hobcobble** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 8:41 am

Did you remove the pushrod from your clutch pedal too? If not, this may
be putting enough pressure on that bolt to make it too tight to remove.
I wouldn't suggest hacking that bolt in two. First, drop that clutch pedal
push rod and soak it again with a spray lubricant. You could try using a
breaker bar on the bolt head end and slowly turn it as your spraying the
shaft. Even when both pushrods and clutch & brake springs are removed,
that bolt can be a "mother".... believe me.... I've striped down 4 or 5
Sweptlines and each time, this was the case. Without every bit of pressure
removed from this assembly, you'll free it up rotationally, as you have,
but laterally.... its a different story. I did this exact procedure to my '61
D200..... switched from single to dual res. braking.... I feel alot better
when driving it. Do you have the dual line junction block for your system
yet? [I used one from a '71 W200]. One last thought on that pedal shaft:
there is an adjustable spring/tension assembly [PN# 6-35-1;-2;-7;-12]
for the clutch pedal and even if the pushrod is removed, there will still be
pressure on the pedal shaft. You should loosen that up also.... just count
your revolutions when backing the adjusting nut off. That way, you'll have
the same amount of tension when re-tightening it.
John

Redd · Post by **Redd** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 12:07 pm

Thanks John I'll try and be patient!! I'll do as you suggest -remove all springs and clutch push rod. BTY did you have any problems with what looks like needle bearings in the clutch pedal assy, replace or anything like that. Also as far as the brakes go I was just going to use the existing line to the rear and run a new line down to front where I had disconected it plugging all enpy ports of course. Is this not a good Idea. My understansing of the junctionbox / proportioning valve is that all it really does on a drum system is to give you a brake warning light . On a drum /disk system it actualy restricts flow to the rear so they don't lock up before the front. If thats not correct let me know . Thanks for your help.

Post by **Hobcobble** » Sat Dec 04, 2004 3:39 pm

Redd,
I think I used a '68 dual res. master and corresponding pushrod. I know
I didn't re-use the pushrod from the '61 set up. As previously mentioned,
I used the '71 W200 junction/splitter block and I bought a spool of line
and flared & ran them all new along with new wheel cylinders, shoes
and new shoe springs. I was going to turn the drums but they ended up
not needing it. You will have two lines running into the block from the
master, one line running to the rear hose that "Tees" on the axle housing
and two lines running to the front: one line each dedicated to the brake
hoses at each front backing plate. This way, every "line out" is used
properly.
Regarding your comments on the clutch pedal bushing, I had no issues
with mine.... I lubed it up and re-assembled it and it works fine. When
everything is put back together, you will most likely have to fine tune the
pushrod lengths, adjust brake shoes, etc..
Remember to pig-tail your lines from the master to the junction/splitter
block. While [if] your drums are pulled, its a good time to check the
bearings and re-pack them with some good hi-tac bearing grease.
John

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Sun Dec 05, 2004 4:22 am

just a thought, but i went thru this with another truck. the thru bolt was worn a bit, leaving a slight ridge in the bolt shank where it wouldnt slide out of the hole it went thru. years of no lube had put a nice groove where it always rode. got it out by removing the whole clutch/brake pedal as an assembly bracket and all and trying it on the work bench. once i got it pulled up slightly to clear the worn in ditch, it came right out. you might try rotating it 180 degrees only and see if it will slide out, maybe the top aint worn.