Brakes tightening up?

slick · Post by **slick** » Sat Jun 30, 2007 9:12 pm

When I took my truck down to have the exhaust built my brakes tightened up. I thought no big deal just loosen them up and that would be it...well after driving it a few more times they keep tightening up on me...by tightening I mean getting so tight they lock up and it won't even roll under power...everything in the brakes is new...any ideas, did I put something in wrong?

sorry about the pic size it's the only one I had

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Sat Jun 30, 2007 10:16 pm

http://imageevent.com/jeffc/techstuff/t ... =4&s=0&z=2
other than the lower spring mounted differant and
a little differant type everthing looks ok.

Did they have anouther spring that looks more
like the one I have in the combi kit?
Should have a hook that grabs the shoe a little
differant than the one your using.
Could look more like a upper spring in size or
fatter like my spring.
Just checked all my FSM's, all show the same lower
spring hooking like the one I have.
Having the spring hooked like this holds the
lever plate in contact with the wheel, otherwise
the wheel will turn on its own.

Another look at yours, the adjuster leaver
does not seem to be seated all the way into
the shoe plate and is riding too low
on the wheel.

Other than above, are you having to push the
wheel cylinders back in, or just back the
adjuster off?
If you just have to back the adjuster off
I bet it is the wrong lower spring....

Post by **Hobcobble** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 6:18 am

Slick,
Try slightly reducing the length of the brake pedal
push rod.
John

slick · Post by **slick** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 3:41 pm

that was my next question...I adjusted the pedal rod to take up some slack, could that possibly not be letting the brakes to release? thanks, guys I'll look into it...

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Sun Jul 01, 2007 4:09 pm

That would only be the case if you have to open
the bleader to push the wheel cyclinders back
in (i.e. the master will not allow the fluid
to re-enter the bowl, or partly plugged line).

Should of asked above also, is
it a problem with more than one wheel......

slick · Post by **slick** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 10:40 am

Jeff, just seems to be both front wheels...when I started to re-wire the rear brake lights on the truck I realized the brake pedal wasn't coming all the way back and would not turn off the the brake switch. That's when I adjusted the brake pedal rod, probably 1/4-1/2"....should I start there or check the lower spring...I'm just having to back the adjusters off...

Post by **Hobcobble** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:57 am

Hobcobble wrote:Slick,
Try slightly reducing the length of the brake pedal
push rod.
John

Sounds familiar somehow... How is your pedal return
spring? Also, if the pedal isn't rotating freely on
the shaft, it won't want to return completely. I
adjusted the push rod back to bring the master back
to its stop, adjusted the rod forward until it just
made contact, re-bled the system and the problem
went away.

John

slick · Post by **slick** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 12:43 pm

no return spring...that was initially why I adjusted the rod..I'm thinking that's my problem...I'm going to start by adjusting that rod...

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:04 pm

Slick
here is the first thing that popped in my head and then I looked at the picture, the brakes are self-adjusting and should adjust when in reverse-sounds like yours is doing it in drive, by looking at the picture of your brakes the bracket that stops the adjuster from moving isn't doing anything, not hittin the adjuster notches, try checking them by reverseing the passenger side to drivers side and vise versa

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:02 pm

slick wrote:Jeff, just seems to be both front wheels...when I started to re-wire the rear brake lights on the truck I realized the brake pedal wasn't coming all the way back and would not turn off the the brake switch. That's when I adjusted the brake pedal rod, probably 1/4-1/2"....should I start there or check the lower spring...I'm just having to back the adjusters off...

Robin 'kind of spied' the same issue I did,
the adjuster plate is a left/right only
and will not swap side to side, so I really
think it's got to do with the spring.
I could be wrong, but it just does'nt look right
too me. If you got the other spring- install
it! bet it fixes the problem.

Peddle return may be a issue, but unless your
having to make the wheel cyclinder return by
hand it "should" not cause your issue with
the brake lockup.

A temp fix to the peddle return would be
just wraping a bung cord around the peddle
and hooking it to the column.
However, there should be a spring on the peddle
up under the dash and also a light one under the
rubber boot on the master. There is no addjustment
to the brake spring in most cases, just the rod to
the master.

slick · Post by **slick** » Mon Jul 02, 2007 9:48 pm

Funny that's what my dad said too...I definitely could have put them on the wrong side...I was thinking they were marked but I don't remember...off the top of your head do you know which way should loosen and which way they should tighten...I would assume by looking at the picture they should turn (looking from the front of the truck, drivers side) clockwise to tighten and counter to loosen...comparing it to Jeffs pic it doesn't look like mine is the same, I guess I will pull it apart...thanks guys...this is what it looked like when I pulled it apart...

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 9:11 am

They can be placed on the wrong side, I did it also when I rebuilt mine, you can even turn them around in same location, I suspect this is the problem for they are self adjusting and yours are tightening because instead of them turning when in reverse(the adjuster turns to tighten brakes without the lockplate stoping it) they are adjusting while your driving, becuase there either in backwards or on wrong side, the plate will hook up so the adjuster can only turn while in reverse

thus self adjusting, be sure you get both in right or you'll have it pull to ones side because one side is adjusting and the other side isn't

learned these the hard way the same as you

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Tue Jul 03, 2007 8:10 pm

Slick,
you got them installed on the right side of the
of the wheel, the addjustment wheel is on the
right side facing the axle drivers side, left side on pass side, i.e. both to the rear of truck------
but it is possable that they have been swapped
side to side- i.e. left axle to right axle.
I do not recall which way the plate should be installed
(plate bend 'too' the adjustment wheel or away
from the adjustment wheel).
They should be marked R pass or L driver.

and just in case- big shoe is always to the rear,
little shoe to the front (might note in my
photo the shoes are backward

, changed them after the photo,
but everything else is hooked up right).

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Wed Jul 04, 2007 3:35 am

you have the adjusting locking plate in the right position in the rear, however when you have the adjuster in the right position, the locking plate will stop the wheel from turning in reverse turn, so you may need to change the location of the star wheel so the adjusting lock will catch on it good

I know it looks as if the star should be first but you may have to reverse it and even swap out one side for the other so it makes good contact

hunter07 · Post by **hunter07** » Sun Jul 22, 2007 11:15 am

my 70 3/4 ton same problem. I got mad and took out the self adjuster cable. Never had the problem again, just check your adustment now and then. Not the correct fix, but it gets you down the road and keeps you from pulling hair out of your head.

Sweptline.ORG

Brakes tightening up?

Brakes tightening up?

Brakes

Brake

Brakes

hope this helps