Toyota steering box: what pump to use

[HighDesertDodge]

I have picked up an 84 toyota power steering box. I also grabbed the pump when I was there. I was thinking about using it, but would rather have a mopar pump. Im I going to have a problem with the mopar pump putting out more presure than the Toy? Or are they about the same?

[Snowdogg]

I'm going to run a march surpentien that use's a saginaw type pump. If you run across another box on the other side of the rock , Let me know.

[digdoug]

Just run the Saginaw or Federal pump that fits your Dodge engine.If you have the drivers side lower water outlet,make sure to get the early bracket that mounts high on the water pump.On some early 318 setups(w/saginaw) you may have to change the fan too.These Pumps are plentiful in salvage yards(get one that is still on the car},or Ebay.

Doug

[wideblock]

if you look up the same conversion for 56 ford trucks, it states that any pump may be used with the toy box so that your GM, FURD, OR CHRYSLER may remain appearing stock and to ease in bracketry.

[Rusty_Quarters]

I just scored a toyota box as well off of the 79-85 4x4, was amazed at how close in size It is to the original, at first I thought I was going to use the pretty cool universal and ragjoint that came with the box, but it is too long for the clearance on these trucks. So, I took the original rag joint off of my 70 manual box and found that the splines inside are only about half way around on the rag joint, and at its stock size would slip over the splines of my Toy box input shaft, but would not tighten up enough to make it solid, but, after I put a little more torque to the bolt, it tightened up on the shaft, so I will be using the stock rag joint off of the 70, I fabbed a bracket today out of some 2" wide, by 3/8" thick steel, heated and bent it into a channel that would fit under the box and come up both sides apprx. 2" then placed the box on the bracket (sitting inside the U bend) and marked the four bolt holes using a center punch the correct size for the original Holes, then took pump off and drilled the holes for some grade 8 - 3/8"-16 bolts. Once I was satisfied with this I found the apprx. angle of the original input shaft on the manual box, and made a template to match this angle on the new box giving me an idea of how the box will fit inside the frame rail, and at what angle. after this I found the existing hole for the output shaft would not work with the Toy box, due to the difference in length of the Input shaft position on the box to the output shaft position, I do not have a way in which to measure this accurately, but there is approximately 1" to 1 1/2" difference in this distance. So, I drilled a Larger hole with a 2 1/2" holesaw just overlapping the existing hole and down towards the front and bottom edge of the frame channel, (looks Like a Figure 8 sitting at a 45 degree angle.) this larger hole made it easy to position the box in the frame rail with the engine and starter in place, and I do not believe it will weaken the frame especially as the new bracket will strengthen this hole as soon as it is bolted into place, after this I positioned in the hole, with the U bent bracket attached, and reattached the steering column in the correct position, ( I had loosened the bolts under the dash and pulled it towards the driver to give maximum clearance for positioning the box,) then after box was in placed pushed the steering column back into position or very close, and bolted to ragjoint, After it was reattached I could see that I could weld to the U bracket two tabs (made from the same 2" x3/8" stock), that would have bolt holes in them that would attach the U bracket to the inside surface of the Frame channel at a 90 degree angle. I had to drill new holes, old ones just wouldn't work for me, so I used 1/2" - 13 Grade 8 bolts and attached box, It looks pretty good, I still have to construct a Pitman arm, and get a pump and hoses, but I am happy so far, I will post pics and template info as soon as I get a new USB cord for my Camera, My kids lost mine.

[HighDesertDodge]

Thats some good info Rusty. I was playing around with mine last night,when I was installing the disc brakes. Im going to go look for some steel today to make my bracket. I have my 440 sitting on the cherry picker right now, so there is lots of room to work inside the engine compartment. I also have a master cylinder and booster off a 79 corvett, that I need to set into place and run the brake lines for. Everything seems to be going together pretty good sofar.

[Rusty_Quarters]

Made it through the weekend, finally got back on the steering box project, as I said above, I got my box bracket made, still haven't had a chance to download my pics of bracket and attachment, I have plenty, just need a usb cord will buy a new one tomorrow and get them posted I promise, the Steering column mounted fine to the new box with the old ragjoint, but had to pull it apprx. 1 1/4" toward the driver to make it fit, linkage all still works fine, so I don't think this is a huge sacrafice for me. Mounted box with bracket see attached rough drawing of bracket I made, as described above. Only used two 1/2" - 13 threaded bolts to mount the bracket to frame, feels rigid enough, and I also constructed my new pitman arm, used a piece of 1/4" thick plate, cut out basic shape of original pitman arm, made hole large enough to accept splined section of toyota pitman arm, after I cut off all but the circular part with the splines. Vee'd the hole going through the plate, and welded the Splined section to the flat plate on both sides, then I used a piece of 1" wide and 1/2" thick stock and made a half round on one end and welde the half round section to the splined section, and welded all along both sides of this piece of stock making the pitman arm apprx. 3/4" thick, Drilled a hole on one side Larger than the other side to simulate the taper for the tie rod end, and used a rat tail file to clean up the taper, Note: Splined section of toyota box only goes on one way due to taper. so make sure you get your hole for the tie rod drilled on the correct side of the Pitman arm, Larger part of taper out on mine. With box mounted and pitman arm built and mounted and all hooked up and tight I took it for a spin to see if there was any steering binding issues, everything worked fine, next weekend I will work on mounting a Dodge pump to my 360 and possibly have to have some hoses made to work, I don't know yet if the original toyota hose ends used standard threads or not, does anyone know? would these be metric, or will dodge hoses work? also, Which side of the Toyota box is the low pressure side, and does it matter? See Lame pic of Bracket below.

[Rusty_Quarters]

Personal Edit: Side view of bracket, and the four bolt holes are for the steering gearbox, not the pump.

[MountainMoparRobin]

Rusty_Quarters
that is very similar to the idea for bracket I was going to use, only I was just going to use angle iron for I thought I would only need 2 sides. One for the mounting to the frame in the existing bolt area, and the second for what you shown for the bolts of the power steering box. My question is?? are you going to drill holes in the bottom of the frame for the 2 bolts from the power steering box that will sit on top of the frame???

[Rusty_Quarters]

Robin,
the bracket I made shows 2 tabs that have holes one on each side of the U bracket, when it is mounted in the frame, those two bolts are pretty much parallel to the ground, one bolt is apprx. 1/2" lower than the top bolt of the bracket for the brake lines, the other does not line up with the original hole either, I had to drill both holes for my bracket. I tried like you were talking about a piece of Angle Iron, I could not get it to fit properly, because as small as the toyota box is it is still way bigger than the original box. After a couple of failed attempts I started over with a new outlook. and it worked best for me, (As I am satisfied with the finished product). What worked best for me was to forget the bracket at first, and start by getting the damn thing hanging in the right place then design the bracket around it. So I Loosened the bolts to the bracket that holds the steering column, and pulled it towards the rear of the vehicle for clearance, I attached the existing ragjoint to new box, I held the box in the apprx location and eyeballed the apprx. area to drill a hole (Existing Large Hole wont work) I drilled a 2 1/2" hole to give adequate clearance to move forward or back, up or down, then I bolted the box to the column, and hung it in position, I used a Large Clamp to hold it in position, On mine there was barely 3/8" clearance between bottom of box and bottom of frame, so I used 3/8" x 2" Material and made a u bracket that wrapped around the box, center punched & drilled holes in bracket for 4 Mounting bolts (Gearbox to bracket) then mounted this to box and re-ung in position, cut some tabs out of the same material shaped as drawn, and tried different mounting positions, and came up with that one as it allowed me to not move my prop valve or brake lines, and it cleared the upper frame rail on the column side, when that bracket is mounted to the box and in position the 2 holes in the tabs are paralell with the ground, bracket sits at about a 45 degree angle. hope this helps. its the only way I could get it to mount. I got a USB cord and have been trying to download my pics, but my computer is too old, the Kodak P850 Software doesnt work on my Windows ME for some reason. I will try and convert to disk at Longs drugs tomorrow and then I can load them. IF ANYONE COMPUTER LITERATE IN THE BAKERSFIELD AREA IS INTERESTED EMAIL ME I COULD USE SOME HELP>

[Rusty_Quarters]

Robin,
Just looked at your question again, and I wanted to clarify, the Gearbox had 4 bolt holes for mounting the unit, those four bolts will bolt to my bracket and the only bolts going to the frame to mount the gearbox and bracket are the two from those tabs and they mount to the inside of the frame, but with holes drilled in the upright part of the Frame channel not the bottom flat part of Frame channel.
PLEASE EXCUSE ME FOR THIS EXTREMELY LAME DRAWING, I SWEAR I AM NOT IN KINDERGARTEN!

[MountainMoparRobin]

THANK YOU FOR THE DRAWING I was thinking the mounting bolts from the toyota box would hit the frame, but I see from your drawing thats not the case. Thanks this gives me a better idea when I do mine what to expect Thanks

[Rusty_Quarters]

Will Load more tonight

[Rusty_Quarters]

more pics



[/img]

[Rusty_Quarters]

more pics

[Rusty_Quarters]

still more

[Rusty_Quarters]

Robin,
this is the last of them, there are some factors involved that I didn't discover until I got into it, like the frame inside channel is not flat where you mount the bracket to it. Also, it is just really tight to get in there, taking the starter off would help, motor out would be much better, after all is done I will make a piece that will fit around the output shaft but fill in the enormous 2 1/2" hole I cut to further strengthen the frame. This last pic is the final position of the steering column, It is now apprx 1 1/2" closer to the driver, might be a prob for the stock steering wheel, but mine is smaller, so no problemo.

[Rusty_Quarters]

Was having difficulty figuring out how to get the right hose for the pressure side of this setup, went to Pep Boys tonight and bought a pressure hose for the 85 toyota 4x4 for about 20 bucks, I am going to take it and the old dodge hose that fits the pump to a local Hydralic shop tomorrow and have them make the right hose with both ends on one hose, then I will take this one back to pep boys for return.

[MountainMoparRobin]

lots of good info here

[Rusty_Quarters]

One Last thing, I didn't have any issue with bolt heads hitting the pitman arm on mine, the bolts are up and out of the way.