Wheels

[Mopardik]

Well, I finally pulled the trigger on my first Swepty, and I'm ready to dig in! Well, at least when the snow stops here. I may have to dig out before I can dig in! Anyway, it's a 69 D300 dually flatbed in overall great shape, and I've got a really cool vision for it. However, while I knew I would need to replace the split rims when I bought it, I had no idea how hard that would be to actually accomplish. Geez! I've read every thread I could find using Search, and I'm having no luck in my quest for these wheel replacements. If I'm missing something here, or there is an easy aftermarket (or later model) alternative, I'm all ears!

So far I have garnered that I need lug centric (aka coined) wheels. I have learned that 1st gen Dodges up to '93 will work, and so will Fords up to '83, I believe. Even older motorhomes with the Dodge chassis will work. I have exhausted every lead I have to find some of these (FB,CL,Ebay,1st Gen forums,RV forums)with no luck whatsoever. I did find a total of 3 rims (I need 7) on Ebay, but they have no idea if or when their suppliers will get them more.

Apparently, I can get some from Stockton or other wheel mfgrs. but it looks like those are crazy expensive. I guess if I exhaust all these other options I will have to bite the bullet, but...

I also know that the later model 2nd gen ones will bolt up, but the offset is different, requiring wheel spacers, which I would really like to avoid. At this point, it may be my only reasonably priced alternative, however. But even with the spacers to solve the offset issue, you are still back to how to properly center the wheel on the hub.

I read about the 2 lug nut trick to be able to use other non-coined rims. Also read about using aftermarket ones and enlarging the lug holes, then using a countersink to bevel the lug holes and using tapered lug nuts to center the wheel. I even read about using Chevy (gulp!) rims and slightly enlarging the center bore with a die grinder. None of the latter two sound very precise, but I guess for an old rig that will never see the other side of 70-75mph it could work. To tell you the truth, it's all just a bit confusing as to what actually works to center the wheel properly, and what is just hoping it does. I guess I'm just looking for some confirmation of fitment before I drop a bunch of time and money on these "custom" setups.

Seriously though, there has got to be an easier solution here. Am I over complicating this or missing something? I'm open to any suggestions at this point. I just want a good sound set of wheels to safely drive the thing around on, nothing fancy at all. Sorry to beat a dead horse here, but I'm really itching to tear into this thing, and the very first thing I need is decent rubber to even be able to move it around my shop.

Thanks in advance for any help!

[712edf]

You probably won't find all seven in one location, unless you happen to find a wrecked D350 somewhere. I wouldn't bother with GM sourced wheels, due to that smaller center hole. Ford used Dana rears up until around 1980, so wheels before that should work. I thought the Ford bolt pattern itself stayed the same until the 90's but that may apply to 3/4 tons or SRW 1 tons. I think the pattern went metric.

There is a website that lists wheel sizes, bolt patterns & such for each year/make/model. I don't know if its still up or how accurate it is.

Once you are armed with the information you need I would hit the junkyards & find them as many as possible per donor vehicle. But with anything used you run the risk of a good looking wheel actually being distorted in some way due to contact with a curb somewhere in its lifetime.

Bucky

[712edf]

Your bolt pattern is 8 x 6.5". Dodge used that well into the 90s, Ford did too. But as far as center hole & offset, I would keep looking at 93 & older D/W 350 wheels. GM center hole was too little as you know. Offset/backspacing changes over the years as does wheel width, brakes, axle width, etc.

My 1979 Dodge truck owners manual shows duallys to have the coined wheels & a locating pin on the hubs. Lists the lug nuts as flanged, stud size as 5/8"-18 & torqued to 325 ft lbs.

Bucky

[ironhead3]

I got mine from Wheels Now WN89810-22.50x6.75 5H on 8BC. That was 6 yrs ago for $225.

[Mopardik]

Lots of good info there, Bucky. Much obliged, sir!

Sadly, the boneyards around here aren't much help, and the probability of a good set in less than several trips is problematic as well. Right now I can't find ANY, much less multiples of them to build a good set. It would appear that I'm way late to the party around here! Still, I will expand my search to some places much further out if I have to. Additionally, I have actually been thinking it may be better to buy a cheaper 1st gen 350, take the wheels, and part/scrap the rest. But, just like the boneyard quest option, a whole lot of time, money, and energy just get my hands on a set of wheels I still have to clean, sand, and paint. Ugh, so it goes I guess.

However, all of that has me leaning towards the aftermarket, and contemplating which ones would work best offset wise, and the exact method of getting them installed properly centered. Heck, even 2nd gen or Ford wheels and spacers aren't looking so bad now, after all these dead ends with all the places that I know of. But again, even with spacers there's that pesky centering business to take care of. Perhaps even more so because of them. I know I'm not the first guy to have to "settle" for some other method AND make it work properly. There's got to be a simpler, more obtainable solution that is acceptable, and I've just got to figure that out. I really need to make one move or another fairly soon, because besides these terrible tires, this thing appears fairly road ready otherwise.

So has anybody else made anything besides coined wheels safely work and be relatively vibration free?

[Mopardik]

Thanks ironhead! I'm checking that place out now, and it's nice stuff. A bit spendy, but at least I have that option if I don't figure out something else. And while I do like some of the big rims, I don't think I want to go much bigger than a 19.5, if I go that big even.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

The original split rims work fine and are easy to work with by those educated.

[sixpak340]

I searched for 10 months & finally found a set of 7 in awesome condition for $200.00, I am painting them red to match the truck as time permits.

They fit perfectly! No messing with GM or Ford stuff.

The first Gen. Dually wheels with the coined lugs require different lug nuts too, luckily NAPA carries the right sizes in LH & RH thread. (I posted a thread with the part numbers here somewhere)

[sixpak340]

Link to the thread with the part numbers - https://www.sweptline.org/forums/viewto ... 20&t=43797

[dodgeboykim]

The original split rims work fine and are easy to work with by those educated.

Except when it comes to running Tubeless Tires.

[sixpak340]

For myself, I can also swap tires & wheels between my 1970 D300 & my 1990 W350 for any reason if ever needed this way.

[soopernaut]

I wonder if you could find any usable wheels at John's Auto Salvage in Cabool, MO. I have no idea if they are still around. They had all kinds of old vehicles when I was last there. I'm sure Doug's 4 Wheelers in Pella, IA has usable wheels as well. Doug's is mostly old trucks with a large selection of 60s-80s vehicles.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

The original split rims work fine and are easy to work with by those educated.

Except when it comes to running Tubeless Tires.

Tubes are readily available that are spec'd for use in radials.

[Mopardik]

Thanks for all the responses, guys!

The search continues I guess.

PwrWgnDrvr, it's a fair point that there is nothing inherently wrong with the split rims. Decades and decades of severe use and many millions of miles would tend to agree with you. Believe me, it would save me a BUNCH of time and aggravation, and considerable coin to keep them. However, as I've read in my Searches, you mount your own tires and have quite a bit of experience in such. I, on the other hand, do not. Now I'm not a total newb, but beyond breaking down some trailer wheels on an old Coats machine, I have little experience with tire mounting. And certainly none with these (potentially) dangerous beasts! Additionally, I can't find any place locally that will even touch them. None. Add in the fact of needing tubes (and a flap?), and potentially getting caught out on the open road somewhere with no one anywhere around that will work on them is just too many strikes against them going forward for me to justify not pulling this swap over here at the beginning of this journey.

Sixpak340, you LUCKY so and so! My quest hasn't been that long (yet), but based on how it's going for me now, that is just one super find!
I say sell them to me and you can TRIPLE your money!
Thanks so much for the part #'s on the lugs as well. I will be purchasing them as soon as I verify if I can find and use the factory wheels, and not some other half-baked setup. I'd obviously rather not have to resort to that, but...

Soopernaut, thanks for the tips on those places. Cabool, MO isn't too far from me. I'm gonna re-start my digging there!

I did price a set of custom made steel wheels from Wheels Next, at the suggestion of ironhead3. Nice stuff for sure, but the cheapest was a 19.5x6 for $375 each plus shipping! OUCH! This puts me in the territory of what I paid for the whole truck for just a set of wheels without tires.

Sooo, anyone out there got a set of stock steels that they would part with for fair market value? I will make the drive to come get them if within 500 miles or so. If not, I will pay for shipping and your time to box 'em up!

Failing that, my question still stands however, as to whether or not there is a simple, straightforward way to get later model or aftermarket wheels properly centered on these trucks? I know there are TONS of these and 1st gen rigs rolling around on non-coined wheels. That doesn't mean they have been done correctly, but someone has to have figured out an acceptable solution by now. Any more experiences with making these other wheels safely work?

[sixpak340]

I researched the fit / no fit issue with these trucks for months when I was not finding what I wanted right away.

Some Ford wheels can work, motor home wheels too.

Beyond that, newer Dodge trucks (94 up), Chevy and most Ford are a no-go.

You can try advertising locally for 1st Gen Dodge 1-ton wheels, but be ready to ask if they are split rim or not, coined or not, hub diameter, etc., etc.

I found mine on Facebook market place.

I had two tanks of gas, an overnight hotel stay, Chinese takeout and road tolls on top of the wheel cost, but it was well worth it to finally have them.

Best of luck with the search!

[712edf]

You may be able to find seven matching wheels if you find a 70's Dodge 300 series RV. Dodge ruled the van & RV market up until 1979. These are the campervan motorhomes that used the front portion of a B series van, not the larger M series (400) motorhomes. They are plentiful in Texas, hunters use them at the deer lease, often as a stationary dwelling at campsite.

Just yesterday I saw a running & driving one F/S for $2500 I know that's high price for set of wheels that likely need good tires, but maybe parting & selling the drivetrain would recoup some of the expense. Or you might locate a non-running one for much less.

Bucky

[Mopardik]

Still on the make for these things.

It would appear that John's is still up and running in Cabool, soopernaut. I tried calling yesterday and got no response, though. From what I have gathered, ol' John doesn't much like talking on the phone. (Can't say I blame him.) I'll try again tomorrow, but I may just have to run down there and check it out. I didn't get a chance to call the place in IA, but I will tomorrow.

I appreciate the insight into what I'm up against, sixpak340. It would appear that I'm at the beginning of heading down that very same road. Sigh. Good thing that I too like travel and Chinese takeout!

Thanks for the tip, 712edf! I have expanded my search to include all those RV's as well. Unfortunately I don't have the truck (one reason I bought this one in the first place!) and trailer to be able to drag one of those home. And although I wouldn't be opposed to also grabbing the 440/727 out of it for future fun, then what? Once the wheels come off that thing, I have no way to move or dispose of the rest, and I don't have enough land (yet)to just push it off in the woods. So I was looking for parts ones, and I had a line on 2 of them being parted out yesterday. One in TX, one in WI. I was all set to head out on a road trip, when I checked the photos closer. Both of them had 16.5" wheels. Ugh, more dead ends. I sure hope that all of those don't have 16.5s, or there goes my "expanded" search field.

Alas, the quest continues. I think I'm gonna start digging around more on some 1st gen forums, because there are a LOT of those that have aftermarket and later model wheels on them. Now I'm not saying that doesn't amount to a bunch of knuckleheads that have done it all the wrong ways, but I just know there has to be a way to do it properly.

Meanwhile, I'm actually starting to rationalize spending the big coin on those custom 19.5s. At least with the larger tire diameter attainable I could cut down the revs and increase top speed with these 4.88's. Let's see, at 1-2mpg gained, it would take me ____ miles to justify ___ more money. Haha, y'all know the drill...

I wanna give big thanks to all who have chimed in to help. I know you guys have probably covered this ground many times, so I do appreciate your patience with me. I'll get there...someday.

[sixpak340]

If I see any more, I'll holler.

[sixpak340]

Check your private messages, I just sent you a link to this seller;

[Mopardik]

Thanks man! I had asked him a while back and he said that he'd check. This reminds me to remind him of that. Fingers crossed...