318 headers

[mopardwh]

A-body, B-body, E-body, F-body, everything but a dang D-body! I know there is a ton of room down there, but I'm curious what you guys think about what headers fit? (Full Length). What brand or even what car body style might fit?
I'm looking to mount about a 1 foot 3" pipe to the collector, then Borla XR-1 muffler, then a 90 w/ tip in front of the back tire. (On both sides of course, with no crossover). How's that for custom exhaust?

[Thomas]

Hedman used to make a set that fit. What year is the truck? that makes a difference too. Good luck. There's nothing like getting your truck to sound just right.

[MountainMoparRobin]

if you have a 69-71 the transmount is in just the right spot, shouldn't have any problems with clearance, can use just about any

[cowboy]

I had a set of hedman from a 73 duster on my 69 D100 318 3 spd ran them about 3yrs

[Rodger]

Hola

You are worse than the poeple who fail to let others even know their name. You want vehicle help and you also do not want us to know what vehicle is being thought of.

It is Ok to say " ... I have a 1967 318 ~ and I'm ah thinkin of headers" Thx Lori ( if I spelled your name wrong, please correct it )

I have this OEM style on my 1970 W100 with tubes the same size to the mufflers and then to the rear bumper and a cross over. ( http://www.1aauto.com/scripts/view_full ... n_id=68662 ). They cost me $10 at the Colo Spgs pick and pull. These have flow tested better than the old HP 340 manifolds in the MoPar magazines. And this manifold ( http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustManifol ... 098/150770 ) flows just under the above even though it is ugly. The 1968 to 1974 non emmission style also flows as the ugly manifold.

Rodger & Gabby
Colo Spgs

[Hobcobble]

Although you've probably stated the year of your
truck in the past.... it is always a good idea to
re-state the year in every one of your posts due to
the number of members on this site. Also, it'll be
helpful to know whether it is an A or LA 318. If it
is an A318 [Poly], there are no headers available
that'll fit your truck without modifications. I would
also suggest that you consider using either an H or
X pipe on your exhaust system.... you'd be surprised
at the difference. Also, by taking the mufflers
further down your system, adding the H or X pipe and
running pipe over your rear axle to the bumper, you
will remove a good deal of noise in your cab and
direct it where it should be..... right in the face
of the Ch*vy or F#rd that's behind you. I had a
system much like you've described on my '79 W200 and
was disappointed in how it sounded and how noisy my
cab was.... even with insulation.... food for
thought dude ......
John

[Rodger]

Hola Lori

Do not feel bad about the lack of speed parts for the "D" body truck. There has never been after market leaking headers for the "D" body cars either ( 1924-1966 & 1967-1978 Imperials ).

You asked about the headers, bora's and tips combo with out a cross over.

The headers are great for only you. Future buyers/ owners do not want your headers. While you have after market headers, your power range is targeted from mid to red line ( great for the drags or NASCAR ). And then you want to end the power flow with some tips.

Mufflers: The muffler shop is out to make a profit. Whatever year of mysteroy truck that you have just find out what was the top of the line power option and copy it.

Cross Over Pipe/ Tube: In 1947 they did not know the idle to mid-range benifit of this item. In 1955 the Chrysler 300's all had them. In 1977 the fastest trucks in the USA had them too ( http://home.att.net/~theadventurer/ ). Why is it that you have stated that you do not want this power item ???

The "X": This item is now on all the power optioned cars and trucks direct from the factory. If you do this, over the cross over that your older relatives may have had, your power will increase from idle to red-line. ( This is said to have started with the NASCAR gang )

I hope that you take all of this as educational and not as a lecture as why to do your HS homework.

Rodger & Gabby
Colo Spgs

[mopardwh]

HI! I'm Douglas W. Harrington. (MOPARDWH). I have a 69 D100 318 727. Sorry for any confusion. I guess I figured all of them would have the same amount of room. Thanks again!!!

Not sure where Lori comes from?

[mopardwh]

You asked about the headers, bora's and tips combo with out a cross over.
Why is it that you have stated that you do not want this power item ???

Hey thanks Rodger and everyone else for the feedback.
I am not looking at Borla headers as they DO not have an application for the small block crysler that I know of. However they make EXCELLENT sounding mufflers as well as (tips, like stated above).
Regardless where I purchase the stainless 3" piping, I could include a crossover if space is allowed. However, I chose not to include it in my original plan, because of the specific length ot the entire exhaust system.
Besides, from what I've learned as a car eunthusiast/mechanic over the past 24 years, it would not be that beneficial anyway with such a short exhaust system.
Feel free to add... thanks again!

[Rodger]

Hola Douglas ( Doug )

Unless you spend your life at the local drags, I will give you a 1, 2, and ah 3 way to have more power for your 318 truck. This is addressing only the exhaust, which is the step one of any performace modification.

#1 ... have a non national shop make all tubes the same size as the inside diam of the exh manifolds. This inside size is the minium inside size to the rear ...

#2 ... Have an "X" made to be placed in front of the mufflers. If you feel the shop is stiffing you over an "X", go to another. Or ask how much with out an "X" and try bartering for an "Cross-over/H" for the same priceof when you first said duals to the shop. If you settle for the old style "H" ( boooo/hssss ) have it at that notch between the eng and transmission.

#3 ... Ask for and insist on a long muffler. ( They will push for a high proffit to them short muffer ) and the last section of pipes to under the bed with a infamous MoPar Hook at the last.

The above exhaust sustem will be admired and looked at by many. You will notice the power improvement as you motor away from the shop. This is almost the same as a 1977-1980 Red Express or WarLock.

I have almost this same set up on my 1970 PowerWagon. I use the 1992-93 Magnum rear dump exh manifolds.

Rodger & Gabby
Colo Spgs

[mopardwh]

Your convincing me of a crossover. i was thinking budget since I am installing it myself with H-pipe at most. But a little more would be worth it just buy a crossover. I plan on making my own hangers and welding everything together. (Except at collectors of course).
I would also prefer to use full length headers with 3" collecters, and 3" the rest of the way out.
These are the bad boys that give it a nice quiet rumble at idle, then "OMG" as you romp on it.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... layPrice|0

[Rodger]

Hola Douglas

Soooo you are removing the OEM exhaust manifolds that are good for idle to your red line in favor for after - market tube headers that need re-tighting all the time.

Soooo you are going to use a three inch tube that has a power usage from mid range upward.

There is more but why. It is your vehicle and you are entitled to do as you please.

Good Luck

Rodger & Gabby
Colo Spgs

[cowboy]

doug, I ran the hedman headers & 2 1/2 H pipe on my 69 D100 318 3 spd with dina flow muff's & what a sound , hard to hear at idel & while easy driving But once I put my foot down you can realy hear the sound nice deep sound & the 2 1/2 in pipe keep's some back presure where the 318 realy need's the 3' will let to much BP out & thus your top end is slower

[mopardwh]

Well thanks again guys. You really think it would not have enough back pressure? And I'm sure the stock mani's do ok, but I'm looking for a little more. I've had headers several times before: 318, 360, 383, so I know how they can be a pain sometimes. But really, I am looking at what's best for the truck, so what size do the rest of you suggest?

[Bill55AZ]

If you are racing at the track, headers. If it is a daily driver, or a fun machine that you drive occasionally, just go with some good cast iron exhaust manifolds, dual exhaust pipes same size as the outlet of the cast iron, some mufflers that are quiet at normal throttle and make pleasant noises when you get on it a bit, and
tail pipes (one size smaller than front pipes, maybe) that dump just forward of the rear tires. That last part is so the ricer that is sitting next to you at the red light can appreciate what a real engine souns like.
Magnum exhaust manifolds for 92-93 are bigger inside than 94 and later. Get a set from a Dakota along with the Y pipe if you want to do a big single instead of duals. I plan on going single to the muffler, then duals out, with both pipes on the same side. Granted, only ricers on my passenger side will get the full benefit of the sound, but don't ricers belong in the slow lane anyway?

[mopardwh]

but don't ricers belong in the slow lane anyway?

It depends on what you consider a ricer because I have a 4 cylinder that will run with a bick block with ease. In fact, my mitsu made V6 will WALK, a big block... bad. Top, bottom, and all in the middle.
But yeah, I here ya. I definetely want loud duals for the "rice sounding spectators", as well as myself and other V8's too. I just can't decide if 3" would not be enough back pressure for a mostly stock small block. i also don't know if I will drop a big block in it later or not.

[Hobcobble]

but don't ricers belong in the slow lane anyway?

It depends on what you consider a ricer because I have a 4 cylinder that will run with a bick block with ease. In fact, my mitsu made V6 will WALK, a big block... bad. Top, bottom, and all in the middle.
But yeah, I here ya. I definetely want loud duals for the "rice sounding spectators", as well as myself and other V8's too. I just can't decide if 3" would not be enough back pressure for a mostly stock small block. i also don't know if I will drop a big block in it later or not.

Ricer=Japanese or Korean mfg'd vehicle
John

[mopardwh]

Ricer=Japanese or Korean mfg'd vehicle
John

Still unclear, because manufactured could mean designed by jap w/jap parts but assembled in america... ex: my eagle talon & dodge stealth. Or it could even mean designed by jap w/american parts assembled in america... ex: the only 100% american steel truck built today, the nissan titan.

Or we could consider the other hundreds of "american" cars designed by the japanese or at least foriegn parts. So I guess it depends wether you think there design is "ricer", or just the vehicles built over there.