educate me...............
- wideblock
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- City: las cruces nm
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educate me...............
i am getting ready to tackle the rebuild on my first 440. anybody got any tips? what to look for? what to stay away from? etc etc etc??
first question:(im sure there will be many to follow)
whats the stock valve springs capable of handling in line of a cam? i have no idea what stock cam lift is, i know theres many of them, but i have a set of 452 heads from a 77 and i was wondering what they would take as far as maximum cam lift.
first question:(im sure there will be many to follow)
whats the stock valve springs capable of handling in line of a cam? i have no idea what stock cam lift is, i know theres many of them, but i have a set of 452 heads from a 77 and i was wondering what they would take as far as maximum cam lift.
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
- oneowner71
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- City: Fort Worth, TX
- Location: Fort Worth, Texas
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- MountainMoparRobin
- Founding Member
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- City: Lakewood
- State: CO
- Location: Lakewood Colorado
cam
the stock cam lift, if its not an HP motor will be in the range of 400-435, stock springs can(if not worn) handle lift up to but not over 495 lift, what year is the block??? whats the cc on the heads???
- etsweptster
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Keep in mind that no matter what springs you buy, you cannot exceed .500 lift. The retainer hits the valve seal at that point. If you want to run more lift than that, you will have to have the guides cut down at your machine shop. I have actually seen the .509 purple shaft bottom out with aftermarket 1.5 ratio rocker arms. (the stock ones are only about 1.45 ratio which nets the lift at .492 lift)
Pump gas small blocks rock!
- MountainMoparRobin
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educate me
I have to agree, thats exactly what I was refering to thanks etswepter,
- wideblock
- Founding Member
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- City: las cruces nm
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so with the split duration cam i picked 477/480 lift and 262/270 duration with 110 lobe seperation im cutting it close but should be ok???? looking for a truck that can pull a house down while white smoking the tires
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
- etsweptster
- Sweptline.ORG Member
- Posts: 198
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
-
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Lawton
- State: OK
- Location: Lawton, Oklahoma
Trey, a cam with a center line of 105-106 is what you want for the high torque value. As I've said before call Racer Brown and let him build you a cam for YOUR TRUCK and motor, not what the next guy has. Trust me it's worth the effort.
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely with a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, beer in one hand,cigar in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming,"what a ride"
- etsweptster
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- Location: Colorado Springs, CO
You definitely do NOT want a cam ground on a 106 lobe seperation angle. Don't confuse that with the lobe centerline like JJ spoke of. The lobe centerline doesn't really matter if you properly degree your cam when you install it. If you don't have the means or know-how to do that, then you'll want your cam to already have the advance ground into like JJ pointed out.
Pump gas small blocks rock!
-
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Lawton
- State: OK
- Location: Lawton, Oklahoma
I've bought two cams from Racer Brown and both were spot on. The one he built for the 440 in the '68 flat out rocks and is so docile (drivability wise) it's scary. Don at http://www.4secondsflat.com told me that they have never installed one of his cams that wasn't dead on the money when checking the degree. It's always where it needs to be. The other one was built for torque and milage in my '65 dart (273 converted four barrel). That heavy @#% little car gets around 20 mpg and runs like a striped ape. Just food for thought.
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely with a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, beer in one hand,cigar in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming,"what a ride"
-
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- City: Lawton
- State: OK
- Location: Lawton, Oklahoma
Most of his hydrolic stuff is around 175.00 if i remember right(with out lifters). Give Don at FBO a call or http://www.4secondsflat.com as he is a dealer for Racer Brown.
Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely with a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, beer in one hand,cigar in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming,"what a ride"
- artfulldodger
- Sweptline.ORG Member
- Posts: 47
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Alberta, Canada
If you are going to spend the money on a new cam/lifters, do yourself a favor and buy some new springs. A cam change can really wake up your engine and the temptation to hammer the pedal will leave you with floating valves at the upper rpm's. If you really want more performance, spend it on the top end of the motor, you won't be sorry.
Tom
Tom