When I push my clutch pedal, it goes to the floor and stays there. Have I some how locked the system? The slave cylinder is at it's most compressed, as it seems is the master cylinder.
I am stupped as how to proceed. Any help?
Patrick
Slave cylinder rebuild?!?!?!
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Veriwide
- Sweptline.ORG Member
- Posts: 115
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Boone, North Carolina
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Slave cylinder rebuild?!?!?!
I have just instaled a slave cylinder kit for my hydro clutch. I am trying to bleed the cylinder. I have followed the manual, and have solid fluid(no bubbles) flowing from the valve.
When I push my clutch pedal, it goes to the floor and stays there. Have I some how locked the system? The slave cylinder is at it's most compressed, as it seems is the master cylinder.
I am stupped as how to proceed. Any help?
Patrick
When I push my clutch pedal, it goes to the floor and stays there. Have I some how locked the system? The slave cylinder is at it's most compressed, as it seems is the master cylinder.
I am stupped as how to proceed. Any help?
Patrick
Patrick Pitzer
Boone, NC
1971 Adventurer SE "Frankenstein"
Boone, NC
1971 Adventurer SE "Frankenstein"
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Jeffc
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 1954
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Vancouver, WA
- Contact:
I have been doing this by my self for years...
Bleading the slave:
with slave hooked to clutch arm, open bleader,
depress clutch peddle, close slave, pull peddle up,
repeat till fluid is clear.
Now that is done, loosen slave rod on clutch arm, open
slave bleader, push slave rod all the way into the
slave, close bleader, adjust rod on clutch arm so it
has a little play. Install return spring
from clutch arm to bleader. Your done.
Clutch peddle should return "up" by its self.
If not, then check for movement of the slave when
clutch peddle is pressed, should move the clutch arm around 1", no movement? may be
a master problem.
Bleading the slave:
with slave hooked to clutch arm, open bleader,
depress clutch peddle, close slave, pull peddle up,
repeat till fluid is clear.
Now that is done, loosen slave rod on clutch arm, open
slave bleader, push slave rod all the way into the
slave, close bleader, adjust rod on clutch arm so it
has a little play. Install return spring
from clutch arm to bleader. Your done.
Clutch peddle should return "up" by its self.
If not, then check for movement of the slave when
clutch peddle is pressed, should move the clutch arm around 1", no movement? may be
a master problem.
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!
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mopardwh
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 4356
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Longview
- State: TX
- Location: Back in the U.S.
- Contact:
Well there are few good ways to go about. But first you gotta think about how this problem come about.
Meaning; did it just start leaking or has it been sitting? The reason I ask is because the master cylinder could very well be bad also. It may seem like it works, but still have bad seals. The only way I know to check it would be; 1st remove it. 2nd, put your thumb over the hole, and try to push in on the plunger.
1 of 2 things will happen. A: the plunger will go in = bad master cylinder. B: the plunger will not go in due to pressure of your thumb = good to go.
And a good easy one man way to bleed would be to stick a vacuum line on the bleeder with the other end in the bottle of brake fluid. Crack it open and pump away. This allows to release air without letting any in.
Meaning; did it just start leaking or has it been sitting? The reason I ask is because the master cylinder could very well be bad also. It may seem like it works, but still have bad seals. The only way I know to check it would be; 1st remove it. 2nd, put your thumb over the hole, and try to push in on the plunger.
1 of 2 things will happen. A: the plunger will go in = bad master cylinder. B: the plunger will not go in due to pressure of your thumb = good to go.
And a good easy one man way to bleed would be to stick a vacuum line on the bleeder with the other end in the bottle of brake fluid. Crack it open and pump away. This allows to release air without letting any in.