Poly 318 stuff

heviarti · Post by **heviarti** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 9:24 pm

So, Anyone know anything about plugs in 318 becoming progressively tighter during removal?

I had autolite 65 plugs in the motor, but auto zone seems to be kind of sketchy as to which plugs the motor actually uses. I took the Bosch equivalent. Unfortunately no plus4 available.

i guess according to the other dude's post i'll be going with a canister type filter.

mechaniclese · Post by **mechaniclese** » Thu Feb 23, 2006 10:22 pm

I think the only mistake you made is going to autozone! I myself to buy parts there from time to but these teenagers they have working there have no working knowledge of anything older then like 1995! I think they think we all drove horse and buggies before that!

TimLG · Post by **TimLG** » Fri Feb 24, 2006 9:53 pm

Whenever I buy plugs they always want to give me the 3/4" long reach instead of the correct 3/8" long reach. When the longer thread is sticking into the combustion chamber, carbon builds up on the threads making them very difficult to remove you'll have to loosen/tighten them a little at a time if they have been in there long. There are earlier posts with the Autolite p/n, I believe it is 85.

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Sat Feb 25, 2006 12:49 am

Correct Autolite number is 85 or hotter 86 for the 318
poly.

hemithekid · Post by **hemithekid** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 4:50 pm

whats wrong with the zone?the youngest person at the one my dad worked at was 18 and had a fair knowledge.'course i probably know more than him at 15.but they have exeptional sevice and prices. never had a problem there so....i dont know what to tell you?

wycowboy · Post by **wycowboy** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:51 am

I used to work at the 'Zone and now work at Carquest. I am also hemithekids father. The correct Autolite plugs for your poly are 86's, if you want Champions they are 58's and NGK V-powers are XR4's.

Chris

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:14 am

autolite 86's is what i always run. my poly chews champions for a snack. as far as the canister filter, why???? its a pain in the butt piece of crap. do a spin on conversion and never look back.

cudajimmy · Post by **cudajimmy** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 2:15 pm

I'll tell you what's wrong with the zone, when you start making too much money, they fire you. Lost 10 years of my life there. Parts are crappy for the most part, too. The place I work now has WAY better quality parts...

heviarti · Post by **heviarti** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 10:01 pm

canister.. see also one piece or spin on? I want rid of my paper element filter. have the bosch equiv of the 86 in now... or actually what the bosch equivalent crosses to in the right thread size (4213? don't feel like pulling one out to see...). I want some plus4s and an MSD. Supposedly someone here in town has the dual quad manifold for my poly. maybe that will solve my intermittent problem... periodically when I tromp on it, it makes a muffled pop and then accelerates not as quick as it should or dies. other times it winds up tight as a two dollar clock, but doesn't do me much good because it takes the automatic tranny so long to catch up. I don't know why anyone ever puts an automatic in a performance vehicle. all they seem to do well is fail. Also, at highway speeds, i can have an inch of throttle left, and tromp on it, but i don't really get a quick burst of acceleration. I figure it's just not breathing good enough.
after that I'm going to dual exhaust, and prolly pulling a Wendell on the exhaust system. I'm going tuck the mufflers under close, and lay some six inch semi stacks down the sides as echo chambers. That treatment worked wonders on Wendell's tow truck. (anyone in Joplin Mo?)

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Sun Mar 19, 2006 11:48 pm

Next time you rebuild a 727 put in Kevlar clutches and bands, you will never kill it agian (unless you brake something like the out put shaft from racing or way overheat it) and it only costs a few dollars more to buy the parts and always run a cooler other than just the stock radiator cooler......

I treat my 727's ruff, with stock builds, and have found them hard to kill........

Your problem with the carb sounds like a vacumm leak, carb set too lean,or possable carb problem......
But could also be a timing issue, what do you have your timing set at? between 5 and 10 degs should be were it runs best and does it hit around 35 deg advance at 2000rpm with vacumm hooked up?? any more than 35 and back it off to no more than 35, polys do not do well with more.......

heviarti · Post by **heviarti** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 6:59 pm

timing? not a clue. that gets into a world where I have little to no experience. I'm really out of my league with anything that's not a two cylinder john deere if i intend to do more than make it run. no harmonic balancer on a poly thgough so no timing marks?

didn't know you could back the vacuum advance off... always unhook that before i fool with a distributor.

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Sun Mar 26, 2006 10:41 pm

Time marks are on the pully or should be. Should show up as a small dimple on the ring closest to engine. Since the pully has one off set bolt to hold it to the crank
it can not be installed "off" time.

Only some mopar dist's came with adjustable timing vacumm pod. All the orange box MP kits do. Adjustment
is done though the vacumm line hole with a small allen wrench. All other adjustments are done with arms and springs inside the dist. If you have a shop near you with a dist. machine it really pays to drop by and have them adjust/test it.

With the use of a timing light you can tell how much advance your getting, though without deg. tape on the the pully or balancer you will only get close since
most engine marks do not go all the way to 30deg., so you will be able to tell at least close.
Using the light, test engine with line vac line pluged, that will give mech advance, start a 500rpm up to 2000rpm...
same with advance vacumm line hooked up...
Mark will move with engine rpm till it rides at a high point; at 500rpm it should stay were you set it against marks on the engine side(you may have to move were you hold the light so you can see down the side of the pully/dampner at higher rpm).
This will give at least a idea of were your advance is running.
Helps to have a tach to check rpm.

heviarti · Post by **heviarti** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 11:28 pm

I think i have found a stewart warner tach off an f-900 truck, but i'll have to remove it carefully so I can install it on my flatbed.

wycowboy · Post by **wycowboy** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 7:08 am

cudajimmy wrote:I'll tell you what's wrong with the zone, when you start making too much money, they fire you. Lost 10 years of my life there. Parts are crappy for the most part, too. The place I work now has WAY better quality parts...

I gave 5 years of my life there too. Gotta agree that most of the parts are not very good but they do have some quality stuff. I am pretty happy where I am now. Carquest pays better too.

Chris