Exhaust studs on 318 - Help

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71D100
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Exhaust studs on 318 - Help

Post by 71D100 »

I pulled a real bonehead move the other day. As I was retightening the exhaust bolts and studs, I accidentally, not once, but, twice, overtightened the studs and snapped them clean off. My question is a simple one, are these pressed in the head or are they screwed? and am I now screwed? Can I remove them with an easy out? I should have put headers on it to begin with and had the machine shop remove those studs, but, I didn't think the metal was that poor.

Thanks
Jon

71D100 shorty, 318, NP435, Suregrip 3.55. Rust, Rust and More Rust!

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Jeffc
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Post by Jeffc »

The most common studs/bolts to brake are exhaust studs.
With the constant heat and cooling that they go though
they tend to crystalize and weaken over time. Not to say anything about the fact that some of them enter the water jacket on the head, thus they tend to rust on the back side.

Yes you can drill them and then try a ez-out, then tap the hole to clean it up.
Sometimes there too far gone for it to work, then you
have to drill the old stud/hole, tap the hole oversize and then use a insert to bring the hole back to size.
A right angle drill often comes in handy when doing drilling studs in tight spaces.


I like to use a wire feed welder and weld a nut on the end of what is left of the stud, this super heats the
stud when you weld on it and helps loosen the stud from the castiron. The weld does not like to stick too cast and will tend to stick only to the stud.
It sometimes takes a few trys to make it work, but it does every time and I have not had to drill or use a ez-out in years. Just chase the hole with the right tap when done and put the new stud in.
If you have a wire feed give it a try, or if you got a friend that does give them a call, it is well worth the time.

I also use new studs anytime I am installing a new header, exhaust man, or have head work done. It also has paided off over the years. Keeps the stud fresh and less likely to be a problem later on down the road..... one of those "pay me now or pay me later" things........
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!

71D100
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Post by 71D100 »

Thanks Jeff, I was afraid of that. Unfortunately in my situation the studs broke off inside the hole leaving no way to get ahold of it. I guess that drilling and tapping will be my only option. Just when I thought it was safe to go onto other parts of the truck...

Thanks again
Jon

71D100 shorty, 318, NP435, Suregrip 3.55. Rust, Rust and More Rust!

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Jeffc
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Post by Jeffc »

I have even used the welder trick with studs below the
cast, like I said the weld does not like to stick to cast.
May make the area around the hole look a little ugly
but still works...........
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!

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