318 Rebuild

[OldD200]

I’m preparing to overhaul a 70 318 2bbl from a Dart for my 68 D100. The original engine has a broken piston, but is very complete and original. I will spend the bucks to do it right (bore, new pistons, cam, etc), but I am on a “must doâ€

[cowboy]

d200 keep it all 70 on the engine , I do belive the head's are the same valve size, just have them checked out & repaired as needed if you have to bore it out stay 30 or less & a good RV cam set , this type set up is very dependable, & with in reason on the wallet & wont need to spend extra on a high dollar Tq converter, any good parts house can order you a set of gaskets & summet Or jegs have rebuilds kits , well theres my

[71D100]

Hey D200,

The approach I took with my d100 was the same. Keep it simple, cost effective and dependable. I had a local ( Las Vegas ) machine shop do all my work. Kept the original everything. The crank got a 10/10 grind, the block a .030 bore job, the heads got hardened seats and a standard 3 angle grind. They supplied the Sealed Power engine kit with a Mellings cam and lifters. All said and done with a flywheel grind and blasting all the parts, came to a grand total of $1200. The parts were exceptionally clean (even the galleys) and it went together very smooth. The truck runs great and I'm in it less than 1600.00 including the clutch assembly. This is inclusive of all the incidental parts.

[cbody70]

Keep it all 1970. Think the transition from Poly to LA happened sometime around 1968 so the heads may not be compatible anyway. Yeah and keep it stock. The LA 318 is a fine motor. No need to reinvent the wheel. Fred

[Rodger]

Hola Scott

I too agree to keep it as simple as possible. Ask your local NAPA what a set of cam & lifters under number MC1735 will cost you. Also ask for a set of standard size 360 intake and exhaust valves will cost you. If you need to do the head work, you might as well do it rite.

[duracell]

poly's in the state's stopped in 66 in canada they stopped in 67

[hemidart1]

I have a 1970 318 in my truck. I run a 340 replacement cam and valve springs from Crane, a '68 340 highrise intake, a 600 edelbrock, Hedman hedders and full 3 inch exhaust with flowmasters.
It runs very nice and strong. I think it's a good combo. Very smooth to drive with a bit of lump at idle and no converter needed.

Al.

[Shaun]

If you want more,without it looking like it-get a stroker crank-they sell them in all sizes 3.50,3.51,....A little extra here will go a long way. Then port your old,or new heads-I believe Mopar Performance has templates. Add the(what are they)1.94 intakes-the 360 size valves-you don't need to go to 2.02. New higher compression pistons(you'll need new ones if stroking it anyway-and overbore it a little. By then you'll want an 850 double pumper ,or better yet, a 440
Shaun

[HEtkind]

Been gearing up to start work on the 68 D-100 short bed for a while, hung the hoist beam in the pole barn last month, poured a nice concrete floor last week and swapped out the heads and transmission on one of the motorcycles, finally got the GF's second bike running last night after 6 months dead in the corner due an electrical issue.

Anyhow, got the truck a year ago, while trying to trouble shoot it all, found two dead cylinders, 3 and 8 that had good spark, and a vacuum leak. Fixed the leak with a new intake gasket, so I suspect burnt exhaust valves, and due to the age of the engine, a rebuild is in order.

The local dallas/ft worth engine rebuild shops will sell a complete LA318 for the 68 for $675 for a premium long block on an exchange basis, and I think I am going that way. At the same time, will have the radiator boiled out, have a local shop do a quick soft part rebuild of the 727 tranny and whatever else looks bad.

A quick question? the oil pan has a big dent at the bottom of the sump. I know I need a front sump pan, is this the same as the car pan or do I need a truck specific pan? the vans tend to have rear sump pans to clear the axle. do we a good part number so I can say get one from summit or jegs?

Howard