Switching from auto to manual

[manderson17]

My 70 w200 came originally with a manual transmission and I personally want to keep it that way. I am getting ready to drop a 440 into it that had an automatic with it. My concern is would all the clutch and pressure plate stuff from my 383 bolt up with no issues? Also would I need to source any other parts for this?

[dodgeboykim]

if 440 is an externally balanced one the 383 flywheel will not work. You will have to get the 383 one balanced to work on the externally balanced 440. If its a steel crank 440 than 383 one will work. All other parts will carry over from 383

[martincom]

Ditto dodgeboykim. Sometime in the early '70s the non high performance 440s changed to cast iron, rather than forged, crankshafts. The cast iron crankshafts were externally balanced.

You'll need to get a pilot bushing for the crankshaft flange.

[manderson17]

Would I be better off just sourcing a flywheel for the 440? I believe it is from a late 70's motor home.

[hd4tools]

Another thing to keep in mind is that the crankshaft might not be drilled for the pilot bushing.

[martincom]

I'm a bit fuzzy on the specifics of this, as it was nearly 50 years ago. I'm sure there are some other posts online that will have all the details. I did work in an automatic transmission shop at the time. I do recall that we would have to measure the physical size of the balance weights as well as their position on the torque converter, when ordering replacement torque converters. So, at a minimum, that would indicate more than one external balancing requirement.

Also, I wonder if they ever utilized a manual transmission behind these cast iron crankshafts? I have heard of the cast iron crank not being drilled to accept the pilot bushing, which would give credence to my question.

[dodgeboykim]

I'm a bit fuzzy on the specifics of this, as it was nearly 50 years ago. I'm sure there are some other posts online that will have all the details. I did work in an automatic transmission shop at the time. I do recall that we would have to measure the physical size of the balance weights as well as their position on the torque converter, when ordering replacement torque converters. So, at a minimum, that would indicate more than one external balancing requirement.

Also, I wonder if they ever utilized a manual transmission behind these cast iron crankshafts? I have heard of the cast iron crank not being drilled to accept the pilot bushing, which would give credence to my question.

Cast iron cranks were drilled if trans option required it. For example. I had a 77 W100 400 445 4 speed. Cast crank externally balanced.

[BigBlockTrucks]

The 440 I have for my truck also came from a late 70s motor home. The crank IS NOT drilled. Yours prolly isn’t either.
What I did was to shorten the trans input shaft and use the Dakota bearing that presses into the torque converter register in the crank rather than a bushing into the drilled part.
I intended to have the local engine machine shop balance the 383 flywheel to work with my cast crank. They said they couldn’t.
My plan is to use a balance plate from quick time products. They claim it will make a “0” balance flywheel work with a cast crank 440 or 400. It gets sandwiched between the crank and flywheel. This created a new problem of the bolts being short. I purchased ARP bolts that were for a BBC if I remember correctly.
Has anyone here used one of these with success? I haven’t fired the engine with the balance plate yet.

[manderson17]

Thanks for the help so far, it's greatly appreciated. Now before I move any farther into this swap I would like your opinions. I have made enough mistakes with this venture so far and would like to not make anymore. What I have is a 1978 440, with the 727 for it, out of a motorhome. I am replacing a 383 with the original manual that came with the truck in 1970. I have read before that the original manuals that came in these trucks were geared rather low. I would like some input on which way you guys would think be the better option. I took a rough measurement and it looks like the 440/727 would bolt right in to the existing mounts with no issues, granted they are apart right now. The 727 has, what looks like to me, a brake drum on the tail shaft. I have a divorced transfer case in my truck now so, correct me if I'm wrong, I think I can just take that drum off and get a yoke for it to attach it to my transfer case. I'm almost positive the axles have 4.10 gears in them, I can check to make sure. So which do you think would be better auto or manual? I know I originally said I'd like to keep it manual but if the 727 would have better road manners I would not be opposed to going that route. Again thanks for the help.

[nutz]

automatics normally run a higher 3.55 then a manual 4.10 because of the multiplying effect of the torque converter
now that being said are you planing on running stock size tires . if you are going to use larger tires that will offset the gear ratio

[manderson17]

I'm going to be running 35's on it. Right now there are 33's on the rear and I would like the wheel wells to be filled up better

[martincom]

I question how much you'll gain with a migration from a 383 to a 1978 440. By 1978, the 440 had been severely choked with emission changes, lower compression, camshaft, etc. The 383 is a strong, reliable engine with good performance. Its standard configuration, for your truck, is a good fit for the application and today's fuel.

In terms of re-sale value, if you ever decide to sell, the stock 383 equipped truck will be worth more than a truck modified with a 440, in my opinion. I'm always leery of "Frankensteins". You just never no what your getting into and the competence level of the person who did all the modifications. There is no shortage of horror stories in that regard.

[nutz]

yes agreed ,its only orginal once as long as it isn't worn out
not sure how they lowered the compression but the 440 should have hardened valve seats if nothing else could use them
the 383 wouldn't have. so the heads would be $$$ to have them done of unleaded gas

[Wildergarten]

Would I be better off just sourcing a flywheel for the 440? I believe it is from a late 70's motor home.

My understanding that an externally balanced motor must be disassembled and the crank, rods, flywheel, and damper all balanced individually, with the rods and crank offset to match.

[Jim100]

Is the 383 beyond a rebuild? I think it is cooler than a 440 from a motorhome.
jim

[nutz]

yes all rotating parts must be balanced together
but factory "78" 440 flywheel would work (they weren't balanced that close from the factory )
the point i was trying to make was 70 heads don't have hardened valve seats so it would be cheaper to use the 440 head as long as the cambers aren't to big

[sixpak340]

383 4-speed is the dream combination in my book, 318 4-speed as a second.

With tall tires swapping to a 440 auto would lead to a lot of work you may be very disappointed in.

If anything (with the taller tires in mind) install lower gears in the differentials.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Ya, as in "real" 4 speed, such as a NP 445....not a useless granny "4" speed.
My 70 SWB W100 383 445 is definitely a "dream"!

[hd4tools]

Mopar mostly used piston height to alter compression ratio. If you pull a valve cover on the 440 and check the casting number, it wouldn't be hard to figure out the specs of the head.

[manderson17]

As far as resale value goes it isn't going to matter, this truck won't be sold until I'm gone! Then my boys can decide what the want to do with it. The 383 is good enough to be rebuilt. This was supposed to be just a simple swap so I could drive my truck. Like I mentioned before I have made enough dumb decisions with this truck already that I didn't want a repeat. For example, the original motor got torn down because I thought there was no anti-freeze in the block and it froze and cracked over the winter a couple years back. I thought this because the original carb was trash when I got the truck and when I pulled the intake and valley pan gasket I found milky water mixed oil in valley. After I removed the motor and had everything inspected to find it was good, I wondered what had happened. Come to find out the valley pan gasket had rusted through and let water in, this is what I'm coming up with since blocked checked good and head gaskets were fine. So for right now before I go any farther I am looking at my options to see what will be best. I want a manual transmission in it and I have confirmed that the 440 isn't drilled for my np435. I don't want to cut the shaft on the transmission because I want to put the 383 back in it. I seen the post about a np445 being a better transmission than what I have now, so where can I find one or what vehicle do I need to find in junkyard to get it out of? If there is a better manual to put behind it what one is it? I have the divorced transfer case in my truck so would a 2wd trans work? I have had to shuffle my truck from one place to another over the past 2 years because of life issues and I finally have brought it home. So I am going to be asking for a lot of questions and doing more research to try and figure out what will be best for my next move. The 440 showed up because I had a 90's w150 a guy from work wanted so I traded him for it thinking i could just throw it in my truck and drive it. Only had about$500 in truck so thought it would be cheaper than rebuilding my 383, didn't know about the crank having to be drilled out and unbalanced. So I think this covers everything, probably not, but thanks for the help and I'll go from here.