Repro gas tanks

[Jims68]

Saw this on Facebook. Says 61-71 but I 'thought' that the 61-68 was different than the 69-71 tanks... Anyway here is a link:

https://vansauto.com/product/61-71-dodg ... chttnk611/

[dodgeboykim]

Question to Vans Auto regarding the 61 to 69 and 70/71 should be asked

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Made in Taiwan. Its 61-69 version, probably the 18 gal size. Nothing like the 70-71 tank.

[Txas2step]

Made in Taiwan. Its 61-69 version, probably the 18 gal size. Nothing like the 70-71 tank.

Terry, your eyes are good for an old fart.

[Jims68]

Made in Taiwan. Its 61-69 version, probably the 18 gal size. Nothing like the 70-71 tank.

I haven't seen a 70-71 tank for a long time and forgot what they look like. I WISH I had saved one from one of my parts trucks when I had them, just because. I also thought the '69 tank was part of the "different" tanks.

[martincom]

'70 & '71 Fuel Tanks

They actually manufactured two different, in cab, tanks for 70 & 71. The trucks built for the CA market had a 23 gallon with a vapor recovery system. The rest of the country had 25 gallon tanks w/o vapor recovery. Outside dimension were the same. The vapor recovery tanks sending unit was on the right side of the tank, not the center, like the pre-70 tanks. I don't know where the sending unit was in 70/71 non-vapor recovery tanks, as I've never seen one. The reason the sending unit was on the right and the vapor recovery tanks had a smaller capacity was because there is an internal, center mounted, 2 gallon expansion tank. It has small holes between it and the main tank so the fuel can expand as it warms, but not large enough to allow it to be filled when fueling (unless you're going to trickle the fuel in). The vapor recovery tank has two 1/4" hose barbs at each end of the tank. The one on the left is the vent and the right is for the vapor separator drain inlet. The vapor recovery tanks had a vapor separator mounted in the upper right rear cab pillar, as evident by two mounting screws that are visible from the cab interior. The vent line, from the vapor separator runs to the crankcase breather where it is connected along side the hose from the air cleaner. The fumes are drawn through the PCV system to be burned with combustion air.

Pre-1970 tanks had 18 gallon capacity and were not as tall as the '70/71 tanks. The interior cab finish panel, below the window, is shorter in '70/71 cabs than earlier cabs. So this Van's replacement will not be a "bolt-in" replacement in '70/71 cabs.

[martincom]

1969 Tanks

From Mark DuVerger, the filler neck changed mid-year in 1969. I'm going to speculate that is when they changed from the "hose barb" fill neck fitting on the tank, as pictured on the Van's replacement, to the rubber grommet tank with a slide-in filler neck. The '70/71 tanks also had the slide-in filler neck. I'm wonder if they changed to the larger fuel tank along with the slide-in filler neck, mid year 1969?

[67step100]

For those interested I was given the dimensions 57 x 17 x 6 inches from Vans Auto which appears correct for my '67.

How is the sending unit removed/inserted and secured? I'm use to seeing six small bolt/screw holes for installing the sending unit. Is it a push and rotate fit?

[martincom]

How is the sending unit removed/inserted and secured? I'm use to seeing six small bolt/screw holes for installing the sending unit. Is it a push and rotate fit?

It appears to be the lock ring, as utilized in later models and the repop sending unit.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Sender is retained in ALL sweptline tanks by a lock ring, (and gasket under the sender).

[PwrWgnDrvr]

'70 & '71 Fuel Tanks

Pre-1970 tanks had 18 gallon capacity and were not as tall as the '70/71 tanks. The interior cab finish panel, below the window, is shorter in '70/71 cabs than earlier cabs. So this Van's replacement will not be a "bolt-in" replacement in '70/71 cabs.

There was also a 16 gal version prior to 70/71. Not only are 70/71 taller, they are also longer. That is why the jack was moved from behind the seat, at the right end of the tank, to under the hood.

[67step100]

How is the sending unit removed/inserted and secured? I'm use to seeing six small bolt/screw holes for installing the sending unit. Is it a push and rotate fit?

It appears to be the lock ring, as utilized in later models and the repop sending unit.

Do you need a special tool for the lock ring to get the sending unit out? Having never seen one of these before I don't know how it works. Thanks.

[Jims68]

How is the sending unit removed/inserted and secured? I'm use to seeing six small bolt/screw holes for installing the sending unit. Is it a push and rotate fit?

It appears to be the lock ring, as utilized in later models and the repop sending unit.

Do you need a special tool for the lock ring to get the sending unit out? Having never seen one of these before I don't know how it works. Thanks.

I just use a hammer and a brass PUNCH to "un-screw" the ring. Brass won't cause any sparks to worry about. It just spins counter clockwise (like a bolt) to remove. When installing the ring, it just screws on (turns on) the same way as a bolt. It will have a "stop" on it so you can't twist it on too far.

[67step100]

[/quote]

I just use a hammer and a brass PUNCH to "un-screw" the ring. Brass won't cause any sparks to worry about. It just spins counter clockwise (like a bolt) to remove. When installing the ring, it just screws on (turns on) the same way as a bolt. It will have a "stop" on it so you can't twist it on too far.
[/quote]

Thanks Jim.

[67step100]

I just use a hammer and a brass PUNCH to "un-screw" the ring. Brass won't cause any sparks to worry about. It just spins counter clockwise (like a bolt) to remove. When installing the ring, it just screws on (turns on) the same way as a bolt. It will have a "stop" on it so you can't twist it on too far.

Thanks Jim.