62 D200 idling rough, or not idling at all

[wre805]

Everything has been good on my recently acquired 62 D200, until I put some new gas in it. Previous owner was running 91 so I put a few gallons of that in it. As soon as I got it home, after a few hours I started it up to move it... Now it is idling really rough, I have to use the choke and tickle the gas to keep it alive, doesn't want to idle. After doing this for a bit, noticed gas is leaking out of the carb.

Before I overdo it, what should I go through first? Vacuum, stuck float, is there other stuff on these that I should think about? Fuel pump getting gunk in it after the new gas pouring into the tank stirred up crud?

[712edf]

I would drain the tank into some cans & get any crud out of tank. Then replace fuel filter(s) & see if carb is gunked up. I believe something is clogged & thus the lean condition along with the leak.

Bucky

[wre805]

Thanks Bucky. I will try it.

[martincom]

I doubt if your issue is with contaminates in the fuel tank. If so, it would be more prevalent at high speeds as the restricted volume of fuel being delivered to the carb would be of a greater issue. If the truck had been sitting for awhile, I would expect the fuel turned to gunk, in the float bowl, and has partially clogged a low speed circuit passage. Where is it leaking from the carb at? What make/model is the carb? Is there a filter between the pump and the carb?

You may just want to add some Sea Foam to your fuel and drive it. I've been lucky more than once doing that. I've pretty much always mixed Sea Foam with gasoline I utilize in small engines, jet skis, outboards, ATVs, etc. and it has pretty much eliminated fuel system issues in those.

[712edf]

He said it ran fine until he gassed it up. Leads me to believe it began in the fuel tank, and yes gummed up something in the carb. Had he mentioned it sitting then I would say fuel bowl, same as on virtually every piece of equipment I own that I don't run daily. Gas just doesn't keep and any ethanol just makes it worse.

Bucky

[wre805]

Thanks martincom and Bucky.

I will be learning a lot as I work on this truck. It's new to me as of a couple weeks ago.

I has the 318 A Poly. Carb looks to have been swapped out, it is a Carter O-2362 which I am having trouble finding info on.

Today after sitting I can see small beads of water in places they shouldn't be, so I'm starting to think I've got all manner of larger issues and probably made a bad purchase here. Will probably have it towed to the shop and have somebody go through things. You live and you learn.

[wre805]

So gas crud was definitely a big part. I finally got time to get a close look at inline fuel filter. It looks like tomato soup in there. I will work through the fuel issues this weekend.

Another thing I found, field terminal wire to alternator was probably barely connected, if at all. Some old electrical tape was hiding the fact that the old blade connector was shot... Could have affected idle/timing?

Now however I've given myself a bigger problem, by futzing with the idle / throttle stop screws when trying to fix this. Will be hunting around for some good Friday night reading on how to get these two screws and the multi-stage idle arm thingy here back into spec

Sorry if this is annoying by the way. I'm not much of a mechanic aside from dirt bikes and small engines, so this is new territory

[Jim100]

Sounds like a cool truck. Is it the yellow one in pic? Once you figure out the problem you will have a good rig.

[wre805]

Thanks Jim100. Yeah it is the yellow one in my pic. I appreciate the words of encouragement.

Before I spend even a second more under the hood, I need to be certain of what carb I'm even working on.

On the passenger side it says Carter O-2362
On the driver side at the base of the intake plate it says 2226

If it post pics of the entire carb could I bother someone here for an identification? THen I can hopefully find a full manual for it and educate myself

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Yes, post a pic of the carb.
The longer screw is to set the idle speed screw when the engine is warmed up.
The shorter screw engages the cam when the choke is closed and sets the fast idle when cold.

[martincom]

Invest in a factory service manual. It will be the best investment you can make in your truck. The two idles screws are as Bucky mentioned. The factory service manual will provide you with a detailed procedure on how to adjust them as well as the specification.

There are a number of sources offering original and quality re-prints of the factory service manual. Here is a link to one such:

https://www.faxonautoliterature.com/Sea ... &keywords=

[wre805]

Thanks to you both.

Ordering a factory service manual today.

Here's some carb pics. For any help ID'ing it I am eternally grateful.

Also, the last pic is the throttle linkage arm. the symptoms right now are flooding / running very rich (blue smoke), but low idle speed/stalling. I am wondering if I should move the arm to the lowest hole in the linkage to get as little fuel as possible (probably not describing this perfectly).

For a "reset" of my air/fuel mix screws, should I start with them IN and backed out a bit, our OUT and cranked in a bit?

[PwrWgnDrvr]

...The two idles screws are as Bucky mentioned.....

I'm not Bucky and he didn't post about the idle screws.
He's 712edf

[PwrWgnDrvr]

That's not a sweptline carb. I would look for a correct carb.
Blue smoke is not "too rich". Blue smoke is burning oil, usually past the rings or valve stems. Black smoke is too rich. Idle mixture screws go all the way in then back out 2 turns to start.

[wre805]

Indeed. after hunting the internet I figured it was not correct. Hence the choke pull setup with that added-on arm on passenger side.

[wre805]

Drained the gas. Didn't look all that bad, slightly yellow. I did but in 91 before the problems started so it seemed odd that it was yellow.

Put in a gallon of ethanol-free canned gas, turned it over - doesn't want to start. Checked battery, down to 12.3 probably because of so many starts the last couple days without running. Charging it now and will try again in the morning.

Flatbed to the shop is scheduled for Monday, trying to see if I can get it to idle before they pick it up.

I believe there's a different carb in a box of parts from PO. Is it the correct one? Who knows. Will post some pics later and search for the numbers. It does look to have the correct vacuum choke hose dangling off of it.

[martincom]

The carb is a Carter Ball & Ball. As it is has the float bowl vent valve, which is an emission control device, the carb is from something '73 & newer. The Ball & Ball is a great carb, but this model would be jetted too lean for an older model year engine. Also, it appears the PCV valve hose barb, on the rear of the throttle body, is capped off. What are using fro crankcase ventilation? Carb jetting is based upon a PCV valve allowing a significant volume of air to enter the intake manifold. Capping it off will result in a rich mixture, but that is not your present, larger, problem.

The factory service manual will list what make and specific model of carburetor is required. Finding an exact replacement maybe difficult. Parts stores typically offer rebuilt carbs that will be close. That may be your only option, short of going to an aftermarket general replacement which will not be a simple bolt-on replacement. Once you know the specific model number, I'd post a wanted to buy listing make & model number of the carb and the year/model of your truck here and on the Facebook groups related to sweptlines. Maybe someone will have exactly what you need. You'll likely have to rebuild it, but that is fairly straight forward and the factory service manual provides detailed steps as to how.

[712edf]

Did you clean the inside of this carb?
If it ran good before the fill up of gas I suspect it will suffice.

Bucky

[wre805]

Update: After draining gas and charging battery, she started back up, but was still having trouble idling.

I was taking off the air cleaner again and noticed a hairline crack in the rubber size adapter... pushed on it and it felt apart in my hand! So, that was letting a lot of air in, messing with the mix... Got a new air cleaner and adapter/riser. Started it up, idling good, it was running a little rich (probably bc the air cleaner had always been leaking air and now air was properly restricted??) ... Tweaked the air fuel mix a bit and it was basically back to how things were before last week and purring. A small hint of black smoke but I was pretty pleased overall.

Felt brave. Drove into town, about 8 miles, drove great. Maybe even better than before.

Went to the gas station (a different one this time). Put in about 4 gallons, tried to pump it slowly just in case tank crud was my original issue.

She fired right up, and ... I made it about 20 feet before it died entirely. Turns over, but starved for gas. Looked in the carb - bone dry.

Personally I think my fuel pump is shot, and could have had a lot to do with the original issue. Non-stock carb + failing fuel pump + dirty fuel filter + leaky air cleaner = quite headache.

It's at the shop now! They'll have a lot to say I am sure.

[martincom]

Damn gremlins! I'm sure glad they decided to re-locate to sunny CA.