745 to 435

[Kaegi]

I have both an early 65 tranny here and a late 65 in my truck. Both are 435’s and neither have the brake on them.

If they are from 4x4s they wont have a brake. its moved to the tcase in that situation

[thehemikid]

The trans builder at Novak said the same,.. "should swap",..."if the 4th gear tooth count is the same".
If they're not, I'll have to swap all the guts from the 1" input's cracked case to a 1.375's case.

Recently bought a "fairly cheap" NP435 with 1.375" 10 spline input. Hoping to at least be able to use the case,
to replace my cracked case that has a 1" input.

This recent purchased 1.375 has a 17 tooth 4th gear
whereas my cracked case 1" has a 22 tooth 4th gear.
That seems to settle the idea of just an input swap for these two trans anyway.

So it's ether a complete gear swap or maybe see what H.R. Clutch says about a 10" 1.375 disc,
or maybe Cha Ching bigger OD disc & pressure plate purchase. Not so sure about that last option, but at least is an option.

Kaegi this 1.375 has the same size throw out sleeve diameter (think it's 1.75") as my 1" input trans but the 1.375 has a ball bearing for the input,
It's a 1965 date I think. Whereas my cracked case 1" has a tapered input bearing and has a 1966 date fwtw. So it may need swapping because of different bearing types. I could see that possibility.

[58pwrwgn]

Granny gear (6.68) transmissions use a 17 tooth input. The 22 toouth is for the close ratio with 4.56 first gear.

[thehemikid]

Yep! That's another reason I plan on using the guts from the 4.56's cracked case 1" input 435
and put into the recently purchased 6.68's 1.375's case housing,...hopefully with no snags.

Think I see why the crack on the right side had a little help, not saying it's what caused it but helped.
Appears one of the 2 holes on the top cover machined surface (I assume for a Jig fixture to align for machining of the case)
is also aligned with a vertical casting line which the crack followed from the hole a little more than an inch before veering off
towards the front trans/bell mating surface.

[BigBlockTrucks]

I think what caused the crack could have been someone using a center post lift and unknowingly lifted the truck by the transmission. I have seen this before.

[thehemikid]

If I'm gonna put an aluminum top on with a back-up switch, will any of the 23 spline tops work
without issue or do I need to stay with the 10 spine era?

Edit: Also, are the tapered input shaft bearings the same between the 10 spline and the 23 spline?

[thehemikid]

Looking at a Ford top with a backup switch boss. All the shifter rails and forks appear the same as mine.
The 3-4 Fork and the 1-2 Fork even have the same numbers on them as my 66 Dodge trans. Gasket mating
surface exposes the gasket in some places that a Dodge top doesn't do but not a problem. Probably to help
one distinguish which brand they're looking at.

Anyway, the only snag is the tower height appears to be the 5-5/8" and my existing tower's are 6-3/8", which appears to get into the
3.00" vs 3.75" finger length. Looks like I would need to purchase a (I think) 3.00" finger shifter cane, ...or cut and weld

I would assume the taller tower/longer finger would produce a shorter shifter throw at the knob if the canes were the same length.

[Wildergarten]

I would assume the taller tower/longer finger would produce a shorter shifter throw at the knob if the canes were the same length.

Careful that the throw might be long enough that the cane or knob would hit the dash before full engagement.

[thehemikid]

Thanks for the tip. Hopefully it wont need persuading.

I now have a trans case, and complete rebuild kit in hand. A aluminum lid with backup switch boss,
upper tower parts kit, switch, and a shifter on their way. No shifter boot tho. Undecided what ball
to use yet.

Man,... I really miss my truck!

[thehemikid]

I would like to keep the large ~ 9.5" parking brake on this wide ratio trans case (for a 1&1/2 ton i think),
that I bought for it's case to replace my cracked close ratio case. But the yoke being what appears
to be for a 5380 U-joint is an issue as you guys now. I looked for a combo joint for the 5380 to a 7260 (1.078 cap)
and don't find that big of a jump. I did see one where they combo down to a 1410 (1.18 cap I think)

As for a 35 spline output,...Is there a factory yoke that's smaller than the 5380, or closer or equal to the 7260
that I would like, that will press into this drum if existing one will press out? I see separation lines that appears it would,
but if there's no smaller or equal yoke for this 9.5" drum then I will pursue other parking brake drum and bracket routes.
Or even front drive shaft yoke changes.

Interesting thing, the smaller 30 spline yoke of the NP745's ~7" drum has the same outer 4 bolt/nut pattern measurements
as the larger ~9.5" drum, but the 30 spline killed that idea.

[thehemikid]

Anyone know of, seen, have, or had a 31 spline yoke for a parking brake drum for a NP435, that has the 7260 U-joint,
or a little bigger joint but not the 5380 joint. Anyone have a parts book for 1964-5 showing parking brake/yoke's available.

KId

[thehemikid]

Does anyone have the measured length of a drive shaft of a 64 short bed sweptline with a NP435. I need to cut the drive shaft I have that was with the A745. I would like to know what a factory length is for comparison before I cut. Rough calculations looks like I could cut 2" and still have 3" of spine engagement.

With the spline of the drive shaft fully engaged in it's slip yoke it has a 5" overlap,and the rear U-joint still lacks another ~1/2" allowing it to clear to install it, of which it would move ~1/2" back to seat the U-joint caps. So, looks like ~2" cut out of the drive shaft would leave a 3" overlap at the front spline. I would like to know the factory length from center of the rear U-joint to the tip of the front splines for a comparison.

[thehemikid]

I decided to take the cautious route, being the 435 is 1" longer than the 745 so I cut 1" out of the drive shaft,
and that put the spline overlap right about where it was before with the 745's ware pattern just showing out of
the slip yoke.

[BigBlockTrucks]

Judging by the pic it looks like the wear pattern is were it was bottomed out.

[thehemikid]

Sorry for any confusion, those last pix was before the cut, and showing why I needed to cut,
with the splines fully engaged the rear U-joint wouldn't fit being the shaft was roughly a 1/2" to long.

I would've attached a pic with the wear pattern I was talking about but my ph memory is/was full
and I couldn't take anymore pix.

Edit: updated pic.

[thehemikid]

Are the 745 and 435 parking brake cables the same on the same model truck.
For the moment it appears to me that the 435 may have a shorter sleeve but a longer cable.

[thehemikid]

I finally found a P-brake on a 1ton truck with a NP435 and correct rear yoke size and backup switch a few wks back and just bought
the whole combo,... trans, bell housing, flywheel, disc, Pressure plate, T/O bearing, and starter, ... stuff is
getting harder to find. Well, around here anyway.

[Wildergarten]

I finally found a P-brake on a 1ton truck with a NP435 and correct rear yoke size and backup switch a few wks back and just bought
the whole combo,... trans, bell housing, flywheel, disc, Pressure plate, T/O bearing, and starter, ... stuff is
getting harder to find. Well, around here anyway.

Wise move. And thank you for one of the most impressive threads I've ever seen on this site!

[thehemikid]

Wow, thanks, that's a Hugh complement!

I was planing on adding a few more post on the install. Some a little embarrassing, and some a bit of a hack,
some a little dangerous, but if you'd like I'll continue.

Been driving it for about 3 wks maybe, holding up so far. Trans is a little whinny tho. Truck is more enjoyable and a little "cool"-er
with the floor shift.

Pix is before I removed the split pin from the column shifter, I wanted to make sure the install worked before I
removed that pin, but I was committed and removed it before I dropped the truck off the stands.

[thehemikid]

Not sure if posts on the install will interest most of you here but here goes.

I was planing on using my trans attachment to my floor jack but it added too much height to where I had my truck on jack stands and would've been and extra effort to get it under the truck. So I looked at a local tool supply (edited ) for what they had available, and picked they're cheapest one which would lift high enough and would still be as low as possible too. Thinking about combining the black adjustable attachment into the scissor jack maybe next time.

You'll notice the scissor jack is backwards because the white plate's wing nut is at the rear of the trans for tilt adjustment. I had planed on just taking it up level and working it in but had another issue which allowed me to change it around.