745 to 435

[Wildergarten]

Wow, thanks, that's a Hugh complement!

And Series too!

[thehemikid]

Thanks again.

For anyone who chooses to buy one of this type scissor jack be careful by keeping an eye out for the 2 upper wheels that are under the white upper plate/platform. I say that because the wheels don't overlap into their slot/track very much to start with. Mine were only about 1/8" worth of overlap. Also the more you tighten the ratchet strap the more it try's to pull the white vertical sides away from the upper wheels because of the lugs the strap is attached to are pretty long giving more leverage. But I figure they are that long for an automatic trans pan which are pretty wide. Even tho the upper plate wont fall but maybe 1/4"-3/8" on one end of the plate, I wouldn't want 145lbs of trans shifting that much at 20 something inches off the floor while I'm under the truck!

I figure I'll have to weld a piece in there to give more wheel contact under load.

[thehemikid]

Another issue I had was the bottom of the 435 trans just barely overlaps the big V grove in the top plate by roughly a 1/4" per side. I figure the V is there for strength tho, or to hold round transmissions. I shouldn't of tried to lift it up like that but I tried it slow and easy and got it most of the way up to where the trans shifter tower was up into the "hack" cut (if it was a nicer truck I wouldn't have) i made into the floor pan. That's when the trans shifted on me and tried to roll over to the passenger side (because of sliding down into the big V) but the tower caught on the side of the floor slot "hack" that I'd made. Somehow I got it back level and I lowered it down to make things safer. Hung the trans up while I made some jack changes. Could've been worse than if an upper wheel had come out of a slot.

Cut a 6"x13"x1/8" plate to put over the V and added some cardboard for a little traction so as not to be metal to metal and small C-clamped it down. Had to remove the front 2 C-clamps when they got into the cross member and bell housing. Adjusted the white plate to about a degree shy of the bell housing mating surface, put it in 4th gear (I think) to be able to rotate the input splines.

[712edf]

I installed a 435 in a 78. I don't recall how I did it, other than maybe a floor jack & lumber. I know I didn't have a transmission jack. I may have ran a cherry picker into the cab. You would think I would remember that.

Bucky

[hd4tools]

How heavy is a 435? I know when I was younger and dumber, I benchpressed 727s and A833s into place.

Now I don't...

[712edf]

I think it's a tad heavier than those two. It is not just the lifting but the hooking them up that makes it better to have some sort of lift or a helper.

I know a 540 is heavier than them all.

Bucky

[thehemikid]

I think the 435 is 145lbs, which might be without the brake. If I can remember I'll weigh one tomorrow.

I also put the 727's and 833's in by hand back in the 70's and 80's.

When I went to pick up the trans I forgot my rigging to get a hold of it and just hooked the P-brake bracket with my bed hoist hook (like a engine hoist but with a short mast to store under the bed cover). Thought it was a bit sketchy tho being an aluminum lid bolt bosses with gussets but figured if it couldn't hold 145lbs it shouldn't be on there. Made sure tho I stayed as clear of the load as possible to load it.

If those bolts and spacers were longer I probably would of found another way.

[thehemikid]

A friend of mine who passed away a few yrs ago, and was a Big Hemi guy, used to say "use what ya got".

So, since I didn't have the proper P-brake bracket for my existing 745 cable's sleeve to be secured where this 435 needed it to be. The cable/sleeve was a bit short to where it just cleared the shifter tower. That's why I was asking if there was a difference between a cable for a 745 and a 435 on the same truck.

So I took the P-brake bracket off the 745 and laid it on it's side on the 435 to where it needed to be to even think about the cable being able to still reach the brake lever. Then found some big nuts for spacers for the bracket and also welded some more material to it to be able to line up with the trans lids bolt bosses. Ain't pretty but works.

1st pic : typical 435 bracket
2nd pic : 745 & bracket
3rd pic : 745 bracket on a 435 with a short cable/sleeve

[thehemikid]

Can't see the bracket to well in the 1st pic, I took it for the speed-o cable.

The cable really wanted to go out and back from the passenger floor pan area. Even tho the cable fitting coming off the trans is pointing up a tad the tunnel housing's sides taper and made the cable turn a tighter radius, so I ran it down and under.

Speedometer needle wobbles till about 20 then smooths out. One of the PO did a rough job on the floor pans, a project for another day.

Cut the hole for the trans tower in the tunnel cover to get started. Enlarged it as needed for the square section of the tower. Then ran into the bracket and made a calculated guess cut for that, and it just barely clears. Probably could use another 1/4" cut at the radius of the tunnel tho.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Is there enough clearance between the tower and pan for when the engine torque twists it sideways? Factory clearance is way more than what you have.

[Wildergarten]

Cut the hole for the trans tower in the tunnel cover to get started. Enlarged it as needed for the square section of the tower. Then ran into the bracket and made a calculated guess cut for that, and it just barely clears. Probably could use another 1/4" cut at the radius of the tunnel tho.

It looks WAY too tight. Remember that the engine mounts flex when the motor is put under power; the motor effectively rolls on axis. There is also flexure when braking or hitting a chuck hole.

Is there enough clearance between the tower and pan for when the engine torque twists it sideways? Factory clearance is way more than what you have.

I was going to get the dimensions this AM, but got stuck on taxes as TurboTax had dumped all my data. It's 4-1/2" wide X 5-1/2" long with the front and back edges forming an arc. I don't think there is a problem with a half inch clearance front and back to allow for flex when braking or accelerating, but I'd go with at least 4" in total width.

[thehemikid]

Yes it is a little tight. I was sneaking up on it till it fit. Figured I could always open it up to factory size by comparing it to pix like wyota884's pic or the other pic I had saved, but also wasn't sure about the fit of the aftermarket boot yet. I think I left about a 1/4" gap around the square of the tower.

Haven't noticed it hitting the pan yet but with the /6 my foots not in it much ether.

Thanks for the dimensions, I had searched for those and didn't find. With those and the pix I should be able to match it.

[Wildergarten]

Thanks for the dimensions, I had searched for those and didn't find. With those and the pix I should be able to match it.

My challenge is with the slot for the t-case, as I am making the twin-stick setup a bypass such that I can have 2-WD Low. Not much room there to make that slot wider, never mind finding a boot that might work.

[thehemikid]

Weighed the cracked case 435 the other day on two different scales. I left the Ford lid and cane on it and it doesn't have the P-brake. I would guess the P-brake and it's bearing retainer/brake bracket could weigh 10lbs pretty easy. The dirty gold scales may be from the late 60's .