Clutch wont return!

[68swep]

I think this falls under engine? Anyway, Im new to the forum. I just picked up a 68 d100, slant 6, 3.7L with 3 on the tree, last week and when I got it home to drive it around, the clutch pedal wont not return to I couldn't get it into gear. I had to reach down with my hand and pull it up in order to get into gear and back into my driveway. It basically gets about half way down then snaps to the floor. It comes up easy when you pull on it, just not on its own. I tried the new clutch master and slave cylinder. Bleed the lines, and still nothing. Im guessing from here that means a new clutch?

If I do need, or possibly need and new clutch I have a few quick questions.

1) Any brand better then others?
2) Im decent with mechanical skills, is it an easy enough job to do myself?
3) Should I take my current clutch out to match up a new one?

Thanks! And when I shrink the photo sizes ill post pictures of my swep.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Usually that indicates a master or slave failure. Is the pushrod at the clutch arm adjusted correctly?

[68swep]

I'll check that out. I didn't remove the pushrod when I removed the master cylinder. I should have, probably would have made it easier to change.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

I'll check that out. I didn't remove the pushrod when I removed the master cylinder. I should have, probably would have made it easier to change.

I'm referring to the pushrod between the slave cyl and clutch fork arm.

[68swep]

I've actually never done that before but I'll figure it out. Hopefully that works

[68swep]

I haven't had time to get out there today yet, and I hope this inst a dumb question. Is the adjustment the spring that is attached to the lower bolt of the clutch slave cylinder?

[dodgeboykim]

Make sure the hydraulic portion is working correctly before doing anything else.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

The pushrod that the slave cyl pushes on, is threaded. There is a nut on those threads. That is the adjuster. If not correct, there won't be enough travel to actuate the clutch. You can verify whether the hydraulic parts are working correctly by watching underneath while someone else steps on the pedal. Look for how much movement is in the slave cyl.
All the symptoms you describe are not typical for a bad clutch.

[jeffc57]

Got fluid in the master? Bleed system? Is the return spring on the clutch to the slave? May need a new slave or master

[68swep]

The pushrod that the slave cyl pushes on, is threaded. There is a nut on those threads. That is the adjuster. If not correct, there won't be enough travel to actuate the clutch. You can verify whether the hydraulic parts are working correctly by watching underneath while someone else steps on the pedal. Look for how much movement is in the slave cyl.
All the symptoms you describe are not typical for a bad clutch.

Awesome! I’m on it, thanks! And I love Walnut Creek. Good times spent there, I’m from San Jose.

[68swep]

Make sure the hydraulic portion is working correctly before doing anything else.

I’m gana test it, thanks!

[68swep]

The pushrod that the slave cyl pushes on, is threaded. There is a nut on those threads. That is the adjuster. If not correct, there won't be enough travel to actuate the clutch. You can verify whether the hydraulic parts are working correctly by watching underneath while someone else steps on the pedal. Look for how much movement is in the slave cyl.
All the symptoms you describe are not typical for a bad clutch.

Awesome! I’m on it, thanks! And I love Walnut Creek. Good times spent there, I’m from San Jose.

So I got under the truck and had my wife step on the clutch. The slave cylinder did nothing. Didn’t move at all. It’s a new slave and master. I did notice the master had a crack in it, new from Napa. Ill swap that out but I’m not sure that will do much. It still had fluid in it so I feel that the slave should have moved a bit?

[my5thmopar]

Got fluid in the master? Bleed system? Is the return spring on the clutch to the slave? May need a new slave or master

Exactly what I’m thinking. Unless the new MC is bad. Craig

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Did it squirt fluid out the bleeder valve on the slave when you bled it?

[68swep]

Got fluid in the master? Bleed system? Is the return spring on the clutch to the slave? May need a new slave or master

Exactly what I’m thinking. Unless the new MC is bad. Craig

2 things, the hydraulic tube going to the master was leaking a bit. Not the fitting, but the tube in the middle of the fitting. Im going to cut it today and make a new flange. I think it was bent. I gas proof Teflon taped up everything else. Also, I noticed a small crack in the master. This master was new from Napa. A little fluid we seeping out. Im going to change that out today. Ill get anther new master on it and the slave is new. Hopefully, hopefully it works.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Teflon tape is NOT required on flare fittings, just makes a mess of everything, can potentially plug orifices or cause leaks.

[68swep]

A few things happened. My tube was bent, so I cut and re-flared it. Replaced the master and slave. No leaks, everything installed correctly. I bleed the line, adjusted the slave arm, and still nothing. Whe. I'm down there my fork doesn't even want to move and I can't get it I to gear. My rear main seal is shot so I figured I'll get in there and replace the clutch along with the seal. I ordered a kit from Napa for my 3.7l. I was looking for a piolet bearing but didn't see one, these have one right? Also, I want to check with everyone here to see if I have the process correct. I haven changed a clutch on an older truck so I don't know if there are any curve balls I should expect.

1) drain trans.
2) remove axle.
3)drop trans
4) take clutch apart, resurface fly wheel.
5) put back together.

And lastly, is there anything else I should change while I'm in there? I'm not used to the rear main being so many different parts. That seems like it's going to be a hassle. Thanks and sorry for the wordy post.

[jeffc57]

https://imageevent.com/jeffc/techstuff3 ... =4&s=0&z=2
Do not pull bell, change fluid if needed, check link, yes pilot bushing

[68swep]

Interesting. I can change the clutch and rear main seal with the bell housing in place?

[jeffc57]

Yup sure can, best way to change clutch, some of the bell to engine bolts are a pain to get to...if you ever pull the engine, drop trans, leave bell on the engine and pull it with the engine, all changes 69 up