Clutch wont return!

Engine, transmission, rear-end, driveline, fuel system etc..
PwrWgnDrvr
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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

Ive pulled engine, bell and trans all together more than a dozen times.
On the 62 W300, got all that out, by myself, without removing the hood - 45 minutes!

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:
Fri Sep 03, 2021 8:54 pm
Did it squirt fluid out the bleeder valve on the slave when you bled it?
It did.

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

jeffc57 wrote:
Fri Sep 10, 2021 5:02 pm
Yup sure can, best way to change clutch, some of the bell to engine bolts are a pain to get to...if you ever pull the engine, drop trans, leave bell on the engine and pull it with the engine, all changes 69 up
I pulled the transmission today, I guess I didn’t need to?

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

Also, any chance anyone has pics of this being done? And I apologize if these are dumb questions, but I support the engine, unbolt bell and leave it in place? Or do I not even unbolt the bell?

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by ozzie »

I have replaced the clutch several times, and I have always left the bell in place. as long as you prop up the rear of the engine, before you pull the trans to keep it level replacing the clutch will be easy.
ozzie

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

So I already have the Trans out. I'll prop up the engine now, didn't do that before. Ive removed the fork and got 3 bolts out of the pressure plate. How can I get to the rest with the bell in the way?

Also, is the rear main in the oil pan or do I still have to take the fly wheel off if I want to do that?

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

So I already have the Trans out. The bell is still bolted to the engine. I think I got it. I unbolt the bell to the engine but leave it in place? I'll prop the engine, but where? Do I drop the oil pan? I don't see any other way to keep it level since the oils pan is the full length of the block.

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

DO NOT UNBOLT THE BELL! NO NEED TO PROP THE ENGINE ON A 68!
The oil pan comes off to get to the rear main seal, which is inside the rear main bearing cap. Flywheel stays on.
Be prepared for a huge oily mess dripping on you and a difficult challenge cleaning gasket surfaces adequately to re-seal the oil pan.
You must rotate the engine to get to the other pressure plate bolts.

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

Got it. Thanks! I just keep second guessing myself on it, sorry for the redundant questions. I should be able to get it from here,but knowing me I'll have more questions.

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

Got it. Thanks! I just keep second guessing myself on it, sorry for the redundant questions. I should be able to get it from here,but knowing me I'll have more questions.

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

Everything came off with no problem. When I got ready to put my new clutch on it was smaller. I order the kit from Napa, its 10". The one on my truck is 11" which I think is from a v8? The 11" clutch and pressure plate all bolted up to the fly wheel just fine so I need another 11". I just cant find one. Does anyone else with 68 slant 6 3.7L know what clutch part number to get? I checked Napa, Auto Zone, Advanced, Parts geek, and Rock Auto. Im at a loss.

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

HR CLUTCH

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by Hobcobble »

Did you bench bleed the clutch master cylinder? :thinking

John

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by jeffc57 »

The main thing about the clutch is that should be a 10 spline clutch with the 3 arm pressure plate if the trans is stock, resurface the flywheel because the kits do not come with the right flywheel plate (not available new). any kit that has a the clutch more than 3 arms is not right, 10" clutch should work fine.
you can always if someone local to rebuild what you have and the should be able to resurface the flywheel.

Hi John, did you see that Russ passed?

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

That's for the help. I actually ordered one from HR Clutch. Now I have an issue with the flywheel. There are some deep groves in it and some of the teeth are chipped. I called a few places and they said these are some of the toughest flywheels to find. I guess I can call a machine shop to see if they have any options. Anyone have any suggestions as to where to find a replacement?

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by jeffc57 »

It wont be cheap to ship, but Wildcat Auto yard will have it (mopar only sandy Oregon) 503 668 7786
of course a yard near you would be best

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

Ill give them a call thanks! Is getting new gear an option? I called a machine shop and they think they may be able to get the warp out. If they can, is welding on a new gear an option? Brewers Performance sells the 172 tooth gear for it for $40.

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by BigBlockTrucks »

68swep wrote:
Thu Sep 16, 2021 11:31 am
That's for the help. I actually ordered one from HR Clutch. Now I have an issue with the flywheel. There are some deep groves in it and some of the teeth are chipped. I called a few places and they said these are some of the toughest flywheels to find. I guess I can call a machine shop to see if they have any options. Anyone have any suggestions as to where to find a replacement?
I have one but I don’t want to ship. However I will be at the fall Carlisle show could bring it with me.
Late 65 w 200.
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Updates: 205 transfer case,4.10 gears, disc brake Dana 60 front with lock out hubs
440 repower in the works

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

I have at least a half dozen and shipping is easy, around $1/#.

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Re: Clutch wont return!

Post by 68swep »

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:
Thu Sep 16, 2021 2:49 pm
I have at least a half dozen and shipping is easy, around $1/#.
Just messaged ya.

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