Hello All,
A friend has a 68' D200 mostly parted out with a good bed. I have a 68' D100 shortbed that has waves in the bed from a life of hard work. I want the metal floor and the tailgate from the D200. But I like the idea of a matching trailer for hauling rocks. Last year I goofed up and loaded over a ton and a half in the D100, lived through it but don't want to do that again.
So the question is what must be done to the 3/4 ton rear to make it free wheel? And it seems like the brakes could stay for use when parking the trailer to keep it in place. Just add an e-brake handle.
How cool is the matching Sweptline trailer with matching taillights.
Thanks for any and all help,
Jimharold
Ya, that's over 3700 pounds!
And see the split in my tailgate? Allows dirt to enter. The D200 gate is better.
To freewheel the 3/4 ton rear. Fill it with oil and make sure the brakes are not dragging. Love the matching trailer idea. I might try it but there aren’t many sweptsides left around here that aren’t totally rotted.
Late 65 w 200.
Factory LU-2 winch.
Updates: 205 transfer case,4.10 gears, disc brake Dana 60 front with lock out hubs
440 repower in the works
So the question is what must be done to the 3/4 ton rear to make it free wheel? And it seems like the brakes could stay for use when parking the trailer to keep it in place. Just add an e-brake handle.
The easiest way would be to pull the axles, cut them off at the flanges and bolt the drive flanges back on to protect the bearings. If you wanted to save a little weight so that it wouldn't bounce so much, pull the carrier too.
'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org
I would have to see a picture of that operation. Pulling the carrier and sealing the hole with plate steel is easy enough. So if somebody has a link to a video or article from a book that would be great.
I would have to see a picture of that operation. Pulling the carrier and sealing the hole with plate steel is easy enough.
You have me confused. What I suggested is for a D200 with a full-floating Dana 60 rear axle. If this is a 3/4 ton D200, it should have one too and my suggestions would seem obvious. Yet I see hubcaps on this truck, one would normally expect on a half-ton D100.
You suggest pulling the carrier and plating the surface. If this is a D200 with a a full-floating Dana 60 rear axle, there's no need for that, as the cover on the back would make cutting plate unnecessary. If the carrier comes out the front on your axle, it is an 8-3/4 rear axle one would normally find on a D100. It is not rated for that load!! So, help me out.
'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org
I have 3 pick up box trailers in my collection.
69 D100 LB with an intact 8 3/4 3:90 Sure Grip. Hard to turn pushing it around by hand.
1979 D200 Dana 60 RA under a 79 LB. Open diff. had it for 20 years at least. Oil in diff, Axles still in housing.
1970 D200 frame and diff with Second Gen box to match my tow vehicle 94 to 01/02 LB on frame. Open Dana 60 diff. Oil in it with axles in housing. Built in 2007. I prefer this one over the other 2 due to overload springs in it and a long tongue making it tow really nice.
I also built one using a 66 D200 frame with an 8 bolt electric trailer axle for a buddy. Heavy leaf spring pack with overloads. That one was inspected and certified for a legal 6000 lb GVW.
And you could pull axles, Cut flange off and reinstall it to free wheel, But I would be inclined to pull and grease bearings
Last edited by dodgeboykim on Wed Feb 24, 2021 2:25 pm, edited 2 times in total.
My truck is younger than me.
66 W100. 70 D 500 , 69 Hiab Speed Loader. 96 Ram 3500 Club Cab Cummin's 5 spd. 97 Ram 1500 Club Cab 5.9 gas auto. 83 W200 LB Propane 360 auto 09 Yammy Rhino 700.
You have me confused. What I suggested is for a D200 with a full-floating Dana 60 rear axle. If this is a 3/4 ton D200, it should have one too and my suggestions would seem obvious. Yet I see hubcaps on this truck, one would normally expect on a half-ton D100.
You suggest pulling the carrier and plating the surface. If this is a D200 with a a full-floating Dana 60 rear axle, there's no need for that, as the cover on the back would make cutting plate unnecessary. If the carrier comes out the front on your axle, it is an 8-3/4 rear axle one would normally find on a D100. It is not rated for that load!! So, help me out.
The truck in the picture IS a D100. The axle he is asking about is under a D200 bed that he wants to make a trailer out of.
He could (A) leave it alone. (B) Rig up a parking brake. (C) Remove all the brake components to save weight. (D) Remove axle shafts. (E) Remove ring & pinion .
Sorry for any confusion. The photos of the D100 was showing just how badly I treat my truck.
Here are some pics of the 3/4 ton I just got.
So this is what I have to work with. Just wish it had been Turquoise. Because of the grill in the back and the wide set wiper arms i think it is a 68'. Drivers door is stuck shut so I have to play with that once it gets above freezing. And drag it home.
This is the trailer I bought for the bed. Appears the brakes were removed and the front of the differential closed off. Not sure what the frame is from as it has different dimensions then my sweptline.
Got it home! Cleaned out the bed and washed the back half. I think between all 4 doors I can make a good pair.
Anyone need a front axle? And a decent front bumper?
The driver put it right where I wanted it.
Had to clean the bed up.
What a nice looking pair.
Getting a small MIG welder next week and can't wait to start practicing filling holes.
I had a '67 GMC 1/2 ton for a work truck after high school. A few years after I retired it to the bone yard, I cut it in half behind the cab and made a trailer of the box. I left the rear axle "as is". A few years later, my brother needed a rear axle for a GMC he had. I made a new axle for the trailer from some tubing and front knuckles from something we caught them off in the bone yard. I swapped that into the trailer so my brother could have the axle. I re-packed the bearings. I never noticed any significant difference in how it towed between the rear axle and the fabricated axle.
I paid $100 for that truck. I still have that trailer nearly 50 years later. I'm not sure if I've got monies worth out of that investment yet...
