Radiator options 1968 d200 with 318

[63d100sixer]

The radiator currently in my 68 is of unknown origin. The top hose is on the drivers side and the bottom hose is on the passenger side.

If I recall correctly, in 68, the top hose was more in the middle(?) and the lower hose was on the drivers side(?)

I am running a 197X 318/727.

Does anyone know of a drop in radiator that works on these trucks? I see a champion CC889 that says it “may” fit. Has anyone ran one of these in their 68?

Any trimming or mods needed to make it work?

Thanks in advance!

[Txas2step]

I just installed a 3 row Champion (cc6169) in my '67. Listed as a direct fit for Swepts. I had to trim the side brackets a bit because I am running a silicone fan and moved it on the opposite side of the support brackets closer to the core support.

[earlymopar]

Do you know what horsepower Champion claims this radiator will handle? Is it "an OEM replacement" or is it designed to provide cooling well beyond an OEM radiator? I assume the inlet and outlet are in OEM locations?


Thanks,

- EM

[63d100sixer]

I just installed a 3 row Champion (cc6169) in my '67. Listed as a direct fit for Swepts. I had to trim the side brackets a bit because I am running a silicone fan and moved it on the opposite side of the support brackets closer to the core support.

That’s the radiator I was looking at that has the drivers side lower radiator hose.

What hoses are you running?

Is your water pump outlet on the drivers or passenger side?

Thanks!

I would love to go back to stock, just for simplicity sake.

[WD]

If your new radiator has the “wrong” lower hose mount, switch water pumps. Before 70 is driver side, post 70 is the opposite. The truck won’t know the difference.

If the purists “ride” you about it, did they pony up the cash, or did you?

[63d100sixer]

If your new radiator has the “wrong” lower hose mount, switch water pumps. Before 70 is driver side, post 70 is the opposite. The truck won’t know the difference.

If the purists “ride” you about it, did they pony up the cash, or did you?

Will the timing marks interfere with the water pump? Is it a direct fit? The motor is out of my 73 d100 but is a 77(?) motor.

I’ll be moving soon, and need this truck to be able to drive and tow a trailer. I don’t know if I have the time...

But I mean, if it is a direct bolt on for the water pump, and a direct bolt in for the radiator, then I’ll order the parts.

But escrow is closing Friday and I have 8 days to make the move.

Dang this is cutting it close...

[WD]

Not sure about the timing marks. My truck was timed by a vacuum gauge. By the shop that did the timing chain swap. Before a 2500+ mile move a week later.

Old posts on this board is where the interchange came from. I still run the stock radiator and matching pump in my 69.

[Txas2step]

I just installed a 3 row Champion (cc6169) in my '67. Listed as a direct fit for Swepts. I had to trim the side brackets a bit because I am running a silicone fan and moved it on the opposite side of the support brackets closer to the core support.

That’s the radiator I was looking at that has the drivers side lower radiator hose.

What hoses are you running?

Is your water pump outlet on the drivers or passenger side?

Thanks!

I would love to go back to stock, just for simplicity sake.


Same set up as the stock radiator ( top center, bottom driver side.) used the same hoses.) BTW, it replaced the radiator I got from you years ago.

[63d100sixer]

I just installed a 3 row Champion (cc6169) in my '67. Listed as a direct fit for Swepts. I had to trim the side brackets a bit because I am running a silicone fan and moved it on the opposite side of the support brackets closer to the core support.

That’s the radiator I was looking at that has the drivers side lower radiator hose.

What hoses are you running?

Is your water pump outlet on the drivers or passenger side?

Thanks!

I would love to go back to stock, just for simplicity sake.

Same set up as the stock radiator ( top center, bottom driver side.) used the same hoses.) BTW, it replaced the radiator I got from you years ago.

Ah. I made that post unaware that the 68 SHOULD have a water pump with a drivers side outlet. For some reason I was thinking that the hose came off the passenger side outlet, went under the motor/crank pulley, and into the driver side lower radiator opening.

As WD mentioned, I think my best option would be to put the 68 water pump on. That’ll allow me to run a stock style radiator.

I was actually just thinking about that radiator I sold you.

Wanna sell it back?

[Txas2step]

Guy on the '61'71 sweptline swap and shop facebook page has a new cc6169 for $180. he didn't know the /6 one was different. FYI.

[63d100sixer]

Guy on the '61'71 sweptline swap and shop facebook page has a new cc6169 for $180. he didn't know the /6 one was different. FYI.

That’s the one I’d need to put the other water pump on to be able to fit.

If I had the original water pump setup, that would be a direct drop in.

[wthatchsr]

Hey guys,
Water pump went out on my 66 D100. I pulled the radiator to have more room AND to be sure of not damaging . Inspection has reveled the radiator to be in poor shape so I am looking at replacing. The Champion cc6169 referenced in this post; their web site says the brackets come on the grill side but can be modified by them. The old one came out with supports bolted from the engine side.

My girls pulley on the water pump and crank are 3 belt one's ( like in TXAS2step pic ). My concern is this: was there enough clearance between the new radiator and the fan? Or do I need to change the pulleys to one belt? I do not have A/C or power steering.

[classiclvr]

1971 aluminum replacement parts store radiator (CU889)
1971 D100 318..had to take the fan blade spacer out and not use the factory shroud, shortened the bottom hose and used a flexi top hose. Runs at 180, even in the summertime.I’ll get the original re-cored eventually.

[classiclvr]

Original setup

[Wildergarten]

Original setup

If you can get larger fan blades in there the shroud would be more effective. How close the fit between the fan and shroud is has a great deal to do with fan efficiency, as the "spillage" of air thrown off the tips represents a large loss of thrust (see "ducted fan" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ducted_fan).

[classiclvr]

This is the factory setup. I thought for sure with the new aluminum radiator and no shroud it would run hotter. But it actually runs cooler. Temp gauge barely gets 1/4 way.