Engine stalls in gear

[vroc4507]

Alright, I'm stumped and throwing up the white flag of defeat!

I have a transplanted 318/727 combo out of a 1980 D150 in my '66 D100 that originally had a slant 6/3speed. The engine is stock with the exception of an Edelbrock 1404 carb and an Edelbrock performer intake, a stock distributor with a Pertronix electronic conversion, Pertronix coil, and a set of headers, (no exhaust beyond headers at this time.

With the engine at normal operating temp, idle set to roughly 800-900 rpms, and timing set to where it's running smoothly, the engine stalls immediately when going into reverse or drive.

I should also add that the engine doesn't start without me giving it gas when it starts to fire no matter where the choke is set. Starts easier when warm, but still requires a little bump of the gas pedal. This is a used carb that came with the truck and I have no idea of it's condition other than the fact it runs smoothly at idle when it's warm.

Now when the timing is set to where it's running smoothly at idle, when warm, the timing light is showing roughly 20 degrees BTDC which is more than the 10 to 12 degrees recommended by the manual. If I move it to where it's reading 10 degrees btdc the engine dies. I don't have a vacuum gauge so I don't know what the vacuum is at. When I have the vacuum hose from the distributor removed when setting timing, it runs very smooth, when I hook the vacuum line back up, it runs kind of rough.

Not an issue that I've run across before and I'm out of ideas!

Is it a vacuum problem, carb issue, timing, distributor,??? From past experience, if the distributor is off 180 degrees the engine won't run and backfires like crazy, so I'm assuming that its positioned properly. I'm lost at this point.

Thanks a whole bunch in advance!!!
BK

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Quite possibly a vacuum leak. Maybe the vac advance can since it runs bad when u hook it up. All that manifold and carb alteration is a potential vac leak too. 800-900 rpm idle is kinda high. That can kill an engine too if the trans engages hard.

[vroc4507]

Alright, thank you. I'm for darned sure not a professional mechanic. My gut thought would be that the rpms aren't high enough, but never considered that lower rpmd might make for a smoother shift. I'm just frustrated at this point because I've tried so many different scenarios. I'm so close to getting her on the road that that these hiccups are killing me!

[Kaegi]

sounds like vacuum leak to me too. factory idle specs are lower than that. a quick way to check for vacuum leak is gradually slide your hand over the top of the carb almost to the point of choking it off, and if the rpms rise up a whole bunch you have a vacuum leak somewhere

[my5thmopar]

Make sure you’re using the ported vacuum port and the plug is in on the back of the carburetor. Also, verify that TDC is correct, you need a piston stop for this. That’s the easiest way I’ve found to check it out.

[vroc4507]

Thank you guys! Yes, there is a plug in the rear of the carb and I'm using the driver's side vac port on the front of the carb. This side is drawing vacuum, the other side is not and I've got it capped.

I guess I've never heard of a piston stop. I generally just pull the #1 plug and visually watch the piston come to the top of the stroke. Would a vacuum leak also explain the hard starting? I'm guessing that problem to be with the carb and/or timing. I've had a mechanic tell me that sometimes the outer part of the harmonic balancer will slip on the inner part causing the TDC indicator to be untrue.

I'm trying to find access to a vac gauge. What is the recommended in. of vacuum and what should the idle be set at?

Thanks again,
BK

[my5thmopar]

Wrong port on carb. Driver side is full vacuum. You need ported. Put in stop rotate engine, mark balancer at zero, rotate other way mark at zero. True TDC is exactly between marks. Is the vacuum port on front connected to the PCV? Craig

[vroc4507]

Wrong port on carb. Driver side is full vacuum. You need ported. Put in stop rotate engine, mark balancer at zero, rotate other way mark at zero. True TDC is exactly between marks. Is the vacuum port on front connected to the PCV? Craig

yes its connected to pcv

[my5thmopar]

Try again. Wrong port on carb. Driver side is full vacuum. You need ported. Edited to explain. You need passenger side port. The distributor doesn't need to be advanced at ide. hat is happening is your removing the distributor ability to self adjust to say putting in gear, accelerating etc. So if you see 10btc at ide on the timing light, you're really probable 8-10 higher since you have engaged the vacuum can.

[Kaegi]

on a ported vacuum port you wont feel any vacuum at idle. it only draws vacuum when throttle is open.

[BigJimG]

Ported vs Manifold Vacuum primer, yeah, it's a chevelle site, but the information is still relevant.

http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/ ... nifold.htm

[my5thmopar]

Ported vs Manifold Vacuum primer, yeah, it's a chevelle site, but the information is still relevant.

http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/ ... nifold.htm

Wrong. It’s a street car and heavy truck. Put it on the ported and adjust correctly.

[vroc4507]

Thank you, guys! I think part of my confusion lies in the fact that I followed the Edelbrock install manual. They state that the passenger side vac port is for "emissions controlled engines", which I'm not using. The drivers side states, "for non emission controlled engines".

I will go back to the start and use the ported side and see if my problem improves.

BK

[my5thmopar]

Plug both ports, set your idle and timing, then see if it acts better. And get a vacuum gauge to see if you have a leak. Also, spray some carb cleaner around the base of the carb and side of the carb. If the engine speeds up, you have found your leak. Most of that stuff is flammable so, use your own discretion.

[vroc4507]

I ordered a piston stop and some harmonic balancer tape so I can make sure that I'm at TDC before going any further. Thanks for all of the suggestions so far!

[my5thmopar]

I ordered a piston stop and some harmonic balancer tape so I can make sure that I'm at TDC before going any further. Thanks for all of the suggestions so far!

Cool. Web search how to use it. The tape is a temporary fix if the balancer has slipped. Let us know. Craig

[BigJimG]

Ported vs Manifold Vacuum primer, yeah, it's a chevelle site, but the information is still relevant.

http://chevellestuff.net/tech/articles/ ... nifold.htm

Wrong. It’s a street car and heavy truck. Put it on the ported and adjust correctly.

Chevelle shipping weight (2 door coupe w/ v8) = 3296 Lbs
D100 shipping weight (sweptline box) = 3600 Lbs

300 lbs is not that much heavier... Originally these engines were setup manifold vacuum as there is no provision on a stromberg ww for ported vacuum.

[builder]

1.rusty fuel lines with a hole in it
2. you are hooked up to the wrong vacume line , you need the manifold vacume line
3.intake and carb was a waste of money 318 are short on head flow , cam lift and compression

[marklein]

Ported vacuum port is almost always above the throttle plates. If you use a port in the bottom plate it is manifold vacuum. We see this issue lots on vintage cars of all makes. We see guys hook vacuum modulators to ported lines, and we have seen manifokd vacuum hooked to distributors lots of times. Easy mistake to make i guess.