Hydraulic vs. Mechanical Clutch

[Danpd69]

Hello all,

I was hoping for input from forum members who have owned both hydraulic clutch setups and mechanical clutch setups. I know hydraulic was used prior to 1969 models. When it comes to classic vehicles, I've always owned mechanical clutch, and it seems like it would be easier to work on.

What are your opinions? Which setup is better to work on? Which setup "feels" better? How much of a pain is it to work on the hydraulic setup and bleed it properly?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Ive put several hundred thousand miles on both types. Mechanical is pretty much maintenance free and hydraulic is maintenance heavy. Im good at starting the engine with trans in granny gear at stoplights and shifting w/o any clutch at all to get home.

[Jim100]

What PWD said. Especially in places with hard winter where the water that builds up in the hydraulic system can freeze. Getting the master and slave lined with stainless or brass goes a long way to lowering the maintenance. I had a mechanical setup in a 1970 and drove it for ten + years and never had to touch it.

[712edf]

Hydraulic is better suited in off-road/rock-crawling situations where there is potential flexing occurring in cab/drivetrain. Some say it is "smoother" than mechanical on the street.

I'm fine with the mechanical if it is in proper working order.

Bucky

[Wildergarten]

I was hoping for input from forum members who have owned both hydraulic clutch setups and mechanical clutch setups.

Having had both, the mechanical is not only more reliable and gives better feel, but it frees up a good location for the wiring block as long as one does not include the lines to and from the alternator. That said, the mechanical linkage can complicate a PTO shaft installation. It's busy down there, especially with the factory power steering.

[Txas2step]

If you have a pre -'69 swept. and thinking of switching to mechanical....no easy task.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

If you have a pre -'69 swept. and thinking of switching to mechanical....no easy task.

And vise versa!

[Danpd69]

Thankfully I found a 1971, so mechanical it is!

[Roxyflash]

I disagree the mechanical if your body mounts are good is ok but the hydraulic it don’t matter there good as you get the hydraulic advantage of a easy to push clutch pedal.I got a 1966 d200 original clutch works like a champ .The bad thing is the 10 spline disk have to custom make them.

[Wildergarten]

Hello all,

I was hoping for input from forum members who have owned both hydraulic clutch setups and mechanical clutch setups. I know hydraulic was used prior to 1969 models. When it comes to classic vehicles, I've always owned mechanical clutch, and it seems like it would be easier to work on.

What are your opinions? Which setup is better to work on? Which setup "feels" better? How much of a pain is it to work on the hydraulic setup and bleed it properly?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan

I've had both. The mechanical linkage has better feel and almost never needs adjustment. It also takes more room. If you want to route headers through there, stick with the hydraulic. The support for the bellhousing made for the hydraulic linkage is better (motor-transmission mounts for the '60+ suck). But that's just my immoderately not-terribly-humble-according-to-some opinion.

[dodgeboykim]

Hydraulic . My thoughts if slave and master are new use synthetic brake fluid as it doesn't absorb water.
If it was possible to fit a rubber seal like newer clutch/brake systems have so its not vented to atmosphere that would be an improvement.

[Wildergarten]

Hydraulic. My thoughts if slave and master are new use synthetic brake fluid as it doesn't absorb water.

Agreed. I use DOT 5 silicone fluid in all my trucks. No more problems with corrosion after that.

[LarryB]

Hello all. Been awhile since I've been on here and messing w/ PW's.
I have a 61 W300 318, "yes, pretty rare beast" that I need to get back to running. One issue is the hydraulic clutch. I think the last time I messed w/t truck the clutch master cylinder was leaking. I ck'd it today and it was dry and a rust bucket.
I can try to take it apart and clean it up. Don't know if they sell a rebuild kit for them, but I know you can buy them rebuilt already for around $50.00. Then another $20.00 + for the slave cylinder if needed.

Now in my research I came across another thread on Sweptline about having to replace the 2 cylinders about every 2-3 years unless you get them SS lined. My truck is purely for farm use and I don't put it on the main road. Also has 4:88 gears.
But even the occasional use truck seems to fall to the replacement fate.

So now I'm thinking the $80.00 I may have to spend on the clutch parts would be better served for building a mechanical linkage. Due to the fact that the clutch fork is on the RH side I think a cable type system would be much simpler than a rod linkage type. I'll have to weld a 90 degree arm off the clutch petal that extends out the fire wall. Then weld some bent tubing pieces to brackets I can bolt down and route a 3/16" SS cable around the back of the tranny, then forward towards the fork. I know I'll have to have an adjustment rod and nuts for the fork at the cable end. I'm also thinking of having a series of holes on the new clutch petal arm so I can adjust the length of pull when the petal is pressed.

So, what ya think? Anyone know about how much distance the fork has to travel on these early wagons? I have a 72 W200 w/a manual tranny that I can get some ideas from.

Thanks

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Since u asked, what I think is that u should buy the SS lined stuff from John Geidl (powerwagonjohn) and be done with it. Then u can spend your time farming rather than dinking around with a cob job that will be more time and effort than just doing it right.

I know this system very well having turned over the odometer twice in my 62 W300 since 1984.

[LarryB]

Thanks
Probably is best to work with what's there now and at least give it a try.
The slave cylinder has a short length of rubber hose running to it. The remainder of the line being solid tubing.
Anyone have any idea where I can get the short flex hose? Maybe it has common fittings on it and a std brake line hose of proper length will work?

[Wildergarten]

Now in my research I came across another thread on Sweptline about having to replace the 2 cylinders about every 2-3 years unless you get them SS lined. My truck is purely for farm use and I don't put it on the main road.

Yours is close to my situation wherein 95% of my truck use is on our land. If you do get new cylinders for your clutch, put DOT-5 silicone fluid in them and you'll never have a problem with corrosion. I use DOT-5 in my brake system for the same reason.

If you want to change existing hydraulics to DOT-5, you will need to purge the system with methanol first (denatured alcohol). With a bleed bottle, it's not a big deal.

[Wildergarten]

Thanks
Probably is best to work with what's there now and at least give it a try.
The slave cylinder has a short length of rubber hose running to it. The remainder of the line being solid tubing.
Anyone have any idea where I can get the short flex hose? Maybe it has common fittings on it and a std brake line hose of proper length will work?

I believe that is a brake hose with 1/4" inverted flare fittings on both ends: a male nut going into the cylinder and a female fitting for the steel tube. I don't remember if there is a bracket for a clip on the body but I don't think so. The factory installation on my '68s use a coil in the hard line to take up the flex with no hose.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Seems I recall replacing one of those hoses with something longer from NAPA. Long enough that I just made a loop in it.

[LarryB]

Thanks for the input.
For sure on the Dot-5 changeover. I never have help on vehicles so I know how to do the bottle bleed w/a 2x4 against the pedal! LOL.
I was wondering about just making a hardline loop to the slave if I couldn't find the hose. My line leaves the firewall and runs straight down and slighty back to the slave. It doesn't have a support bracket. The run actually creates some hard bends in the hose next to the fittings that show age cracking. That was my concern and reason why I figured to replace the hose. A looped hard line or hose would certainly help that issue.

[Roxyflash]

I switch the fluid in mine 8 years ago to hydraulic 32 oil been working like a champ