Sweptline.ORG

Greetings, first post here and already need some advice. I've recently acquired a 68 D100 383/4 speed long bed pickup. The motor is seized and I picked up a running 383 from a friend, I didn't look a gift horse in the mouth so to speak and wound up with a cast crank late 383, until now I had always thought 383s were all forged/internal balanced so I didn't give this a thought at the time. From what I've seen this is not an easily sourced flywheel so now I have the dilemma of how to mate a 68 hydraulic clutch flywheel from an internally balanced motor onto an externally balanced engine. I've heard there are diagrams for drilling the counterbalance, does anyone have them and would these work on mine? Any other thoughts?

Bryan

Welcome!

Have you considered taking the engine & flywheel to a machine shop & having it balanced? Not a cheap option though.

Bucky

Well, I got the clutch/flywheel free (no fun on a stuck motor) and confirmed something else I feared, mainly that the cast crank is not drilled deep enough for the input shaft. I know on cars with 833s we have the option to cut down the input shaft and use a roller bearing instead of the pilot bushing, is this a viable option with the 435? I have to admit I'm beginning to consider a more involved process, either a full rebuild of the forged crank motor if the block/crank are salvageable, or a partial refresh of the cast crank motor, reconditioning/swapping in the forged crank and having the rotating assembly balanced to that.

BCSharp wrote:Well, I got the clutch/flywheel free (no fun on a stuck motor) and confirmed something else I feared, mainly that the cast crank is not drilled deep enough for the input shaft. I know on cars with 833s we have the option to cut down the input shaft and use a roller bearing instead of the pilot bushing, is this a viable option with the 435? I have to admit I'm beginning to consider a more involved process, either a full rebuild of the forged crank motor if the block/crank are salvageable, or a partial refresh of the cast crank motor, reconditioning/swapping in the forged crank and having the rotating assembly balanced to that.

I had same problem with a 400 I installed into my 70 D500 years back. Borrowed a magnetic base drill, Installed flywheel onto engine and with
it sitting on its nose proceeded to drill crank pilot hole. Fitted bushing and its been in truck for 13 years.