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Mr. John Geidl is in the process of rebuilding the master and slave cylinders for my 1963 D300. My nickname is Cleanfingernails and although I am proficient at signing checks I rely on my mechanic to get things done. I have had great success in asking questions in this forum to help make sure my mechanic gets it right the first time. So, what are the tricks of the trade to make sure the removal and instillation of a new master and slave are done correctly? What mistakes can be avoided? What type of fluid do you recommend? Thanks.

If you are having the single master rebuilt for your motor home D300 Now is the time to do a dual braking upgrade for safety and piece of mind.

get help to remove and install the master. hard to hold a wrench under the dash and turn the nuts under the hood at the same time. use just regular dot 3 brake fluid. start the line connections before tightening the slave all the way. it helps to be able to move it around a bit so you don't cross thread the line.

Cleanfingernails wrote:Mr. John Geidl is in the process of rebuilding the master and slave cylinders for my 1963 D300. My nickname is Cleanfingernails and although I am proficient at signing checks I rely on my mechanic to get things done. I have had great success in asking questions in this forum to help make sure my mechanic gets it right the first time. So, what are the tricks of the trade to make sure the removal and instillation of a new master and slave are done correctly? What mistakes can be avoided? What type of fluid do you recommend? Thanks.

Is he rebuilding both the brake and clutch master cylinders?

John

I'd change over to DOT5 and make sure you bench bleed! Very good choice going stainless. My 2 masters and slave were done by him.

Dot 5 is silicone based and NOT COMPATIBLE with dot 3. You must flush and clean the entire system of all dot 3 in order to change.