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Greetings from Canada! New here, so if my question has been asked before... sorry? I have a 1963 Fargo 100, with 3 on the tree/225..... but I need towing power, so how hard is a 318/auto tranny swap? or is 360/auto swap better?and what years are the best /easiest to swap? any input is greatly appreciated! Thanks

Welcome to the site. You can use the same bell housing for the
318. You'd need the correct hydraulic clutch 318 flywheel. You could swap in an NP435
[10 spline] for a bit more strength and a nice low gear. The radiator would need to be
swapped for a V8 model to keep it cool. The engine harness is a bit different for the
V8 as well and you'd need to have the correct engine brackets. I think the square block
motor mount rubber insulators will work with the 318. I'm sure others will chime in here
to add items I might have overlooked....
John

The auto option requires crossmember torching, frame reinforcement spanner, trans with e-brake drum, shifting controls, rad with trans cooler, and more.

Easy swap to an A318 poly or la318 and a np435 4 spd. Will give you plenty of towing power.Did this on my '67 d10 shorty. You will have to deal with the drive shaft depending on what a735 trans you have.

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=28997&start=20

Txas2step wrote:Easy swap to an A318 poly or la318 and a np435 4 spd. Will give you plenty of towing power.Did this on my '67 d10 shorty. You will have to deal with the drive shaft depending on what a735 trans you have.

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=28997&start=20

Just curious on the small block OEM engine mounting location how close the distributor cap ends up in relation to the firewall?

- EM

earlymopar wrote:

Txas2step wrote:Easy swap to an A318 poly or la318 and a np435 4 spd. Will give you plenty of towing power.Did this on my '67 d10 shorty. You will have to deal with the drive shaft depending on what a735 trans you have.

viewtopic.php?f=34&t=28997&start=20

Just curious on the small block OEM engine mounting location how close the distributor cap ends up in relation to the firewall?

- EM

download/file.php?id=33618&mode=view

earlymopar wrote:

Just curious on the small block OEM engine mounting location how close the distributor cap ends up in relation to the firewall?

- EM

pretty darn close.. like 1/2 inch or so

Thanks for your replies. My swap (with non-OEM mounts and a lower engine height) comes out just the way you described

- EM

My 71 is OEM LA318 and the firewall to distributor clearance is no more than 3/4" so the 1/2" clearance is right in the ball park.

318 poly will tow way better than a la318 and it is correct for the year. in Canada I think they used a 313 poly. same thing as A318 but smaller bore

Kaegi wrote:318 poly will tow way better than a la318 and it is correct for the year. in Canada I think they used a 313 poly. same thing as A318 but smaller bore

My 66 W100 has a 66 car Poly block in it. It was/is a 318. The 313 was used in Canada according to what I read but only in a few select models and years.

dodgeboykim wrote:

Kaegi wrote:318 poly will tow way better than a la318 and it is correct for the year. in Canada I think they used a 313 poly. same thing as A318 but smaller bore

My 66 W100 has a 66 car Poly block in it. It was/is a 318. The 313 was used in Canada according to what I read but only in a few select models and years.

I just read somewhere all the Canadian built dodge/fargo vehicles with polys used the 313 from late 50s till 65 or 66? they have there own engine plant up there so they did their own thing. kinda like with flathead sixes in Canada. the Canadian built ones were always the longer 25 inch motor where as here we had both 23 and 25 inch for 30 years

I always thought a good motor for one of these would be a 360 with the old poly heads and manifolds. One time we went the other way and put 273 heads on a 313. Everything bolts on but you have to change the camshaft too. The intake and exhaust valves aren't in the same order.