drive shaft questions

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wideblock
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drive shaft questions

Post by wideblock »

you know the slip joint on a 2 piece half ton drive shaft? whats considered acceptable play when you twist the 2 in opposite directions? mine doesnt look worn at all, but does have a small bit of play in it, will the grease fill this in and not make noise? or should it be a tight slip fit? right now its what i would call a good slip fit, but not tight. real easy to slip in and out with all the grese and gunk cleaned off.
Trey

1965 CSS Utiline.


ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100


"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"

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MountainMoparRobin
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drive shaft

Post by MountainMoparRobin »

Trey
I would be no good on that for I didn't know they put 2 piece drive shafts on 1/2 tons, mine is a one piece

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HellBelly
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Post by HellBelly »

Both mine are also one piece, but SWB also.. LOL
Scott Blaylock (Founder/Admin)
http://www.Sweptline.ORG
http://www.SweptlineTruckRegistry.com

1965 Dodge SWB D100 (Utiline)
1968 Dodge LWB D100 (Sweptline)
1970 Dodge LWB D100 (Dude)

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cowboy
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Post by cowboy »

They put both on the long bed , with a standerd trans , but both my 69 & 68 have the one piece , one auto & one standerd , trey a little twist is ok but no more then a 1/4 in on the high side , I ran one with about 1/4in for a couple years work fine under all kinds of driving :lol: :roll:
cowboy Alvin Tx
67 w100 318 3spd
2005 Ram 2500 CC Diesel 4x4 lwb
LAND OF THE FREE
BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE

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Hobcobble
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Post by Hobcobble »

The 4 speed tranny used the 2 piece driveline set up for long bed D series
trucks[128"]. The automatic and A745 3 speed trannys used the one piece.
If you have a very slight bit of play, like a couple or so degrees of rotation
between your spline shaft and slip yoke.... that should be no big deal. As
you said... just put a good amount of grease in there... something with a
bit more tack ["sticky"]. The biggest hassle of installing a 2 piece driveline
is getting the carrier bearing/hanger in EXACTLY the right position so you
don't get that dreaded vibration..... got a laser? [LOL]
John

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wideblock
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Post by wideblock »

i always bolt in both rear and front joint, having the carrier hung, but loose. then duct tape a piece of kite string to both yolks, stretched tight and eyeball that the drive shaft is centered all the way down. then tighten the bolts on the carrier so far its worked like a champ. im damn sure aint running the truck in gear on jack stands and tightening the bolts like the book reccomends. thats just stupid!
Trey

1965 CSS Utiline.


ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100


"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"

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Hobcobble
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Post by Hobcobble »

Did the book recommend that you wear a neck tie? :lol: Geez.... that
does sound pretty risky.
John

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cowboy
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Post by cowboy »

Trey , are you sure you did'nt do that , I remember a post from you having a guy hang off your front bumper while driving 8O :lol: , or is that how you got that gooses egg on your forhead :P :wink:
8)
cowboy Alvin Tx
67 w100 318 3spd
2005 Ram 2500 CC Diesel 4x4 lwb
LAND OF THE FREE
BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE

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wideblock
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Post by wideblock »

hehehehehehehehe, good memory cowboy. yes i did drag a guy under my front bumper looking for where the clunk was coming from. but it wasnt me doing it! the book actually says to start thr truck in low gear in the jack stands and let the bearing self center, then tighten it up. if i had a concrete drive, maybe, but not on this dirt.
Trey

1965 CSS Utiline.


ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100


"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"

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