Russ wrote:This might answer some of your questions in case you haven't seen it.
This is from the 69 FSM. The pin that engages the upper pivot will be splined on some axles instead of the key type as shown, but dis-assembly will be the same.
muddyoldman wrote:good luck finding some of these parts. I am finally in the process of putting my front axle back under. I work in Fort wayne IN. where these axles were made and work with guys who know retired Dana Employees. I am still searching for some parts. Dana would let there employees take home extra and old parts after a line of axles were discontinued. there are guys around here with shops full of Dana parts,but some stuff is still hard to find. International Harvester(Navistar-my employer) used these axles in thier light duty trucks too. Vintage Power Wagons has some of these parts,but are VERY ($$$$) proud of them. My 68 W100 has a Dana 44-3f closed knuckle, and it wasn't cheap to rebuild.I had to bite the bullet and pay the vintage power wagon price for thier drag link.. here is a link to the Dana 44 manual. http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5310-3.pdfr
kshallen wrote:Hi All - 1st time on the forum
I am currently servicing the front dana 44-3f on my 68 w200. The passenger side u-joint grenaded, so that knuckle is apart. The outer axle shaft is toast, so the local ADCO drive line shop is hunting that down for me. The external diagnostic was steering wheel range of motion was reduced from 6 turns stop to stop to 3. The broken crosses on the u-join fell into the bottom of the knuckle, prevent the knuckle from turning all the way. I was lucky to keep the truck on the road.
The passenger side lower knuckle bearing took a hit from the grenade. I was wondering if anyone here has service the lower beating cone and what technique did you use. If you have serviced the upper bronze, I would be interested in that also, plus any parts source you may have found, especially the big spit seal and felt on the back of the knuckle. The cones actually "look" ok, but if easy changed, might as well do it now.
I also pulled the differential to service the axel seals adjacent to the diff, where the drivers side was leaking badly. The axle shaft had a stain on it where the oil was getting by, which the ADCO guy pointed out to me, and told me how to pull the diff. The diff pulled out easily with a crow bar center on the spider gear carrier and a nudge on the bar and it popped out, so no case spreader was needed. The seals went in ok, using two extra long extensions on a socket, driving the seal through the opposite axle tube, after starting them with the same socket, and a plastic hammer, being careful to not touch the diff bearing races. The new seals intergrate the guides so you have to remove them. I just pried out the oils seals using a seal pry tool, and the guides worked loose via finger pressure, but a long wood closet pole (perfect size actually) helped loosen one side it by driving it from the knuckle side.
The diff looks to be great shape, with a very nice contact pattern, after all these years BTW.
Any experience and advice appreciated, as this is the first time I've had to do a complete tear down on an axle.
kshallen wrote:Thanks for the response. I'll check Napa tomorrow. How did you get the bottom seat out (for the cone bearing) and in. Did you need a press, or just hammer and drift?
kshallen wrote:Mine came out easy, thanks. West Coast Differentials had all the parts in stock locally. The axle is "unobtainium", even from Dana, officially not available, so Vintage Powerwagon is sending me one for $175. They say that knuckle is not very strong and to keep the tire sizes 33 and below, FYI. To reward myself for the labor - also having them send out door and window weather seals so I don't freeze in the Sierras anymore.
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